This guy is rather full of it, but I like where he parks!

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Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
3,240
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Location
South Florida
My Car
'71 Mustang Mach 1 M-code "Soylent Green"
'69 Plymouth Valiant 100
'68 Plymouth Satellite
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hmmm, where do we start....

Earl Scheib paint job... didn't mask anything of... door strikers, etc.

No shock tower braces

Funky exhaust

Cheesy steering wheel

Gauge cluster where your leg goes

Factory air (not working - all there except hoses and freon)

warped hood

 
hmmm, where do we start....

Earl Scheib paint job... didn't mask anything of... door strikers, etc.

No shock tower braces

Funky exhaust

Cheesy steering wheel

Gauge cluster where your leg goes

Factory air (not working - all there except hoses and freon)

warped hood
I agree on all of that - but I don't see the warped hood.

If you're talking about the uneven fender-to-hood gap, that's entirely normal unless it's a repop hood. The factory hoods were radiussed incorrectly - you can get them aligned front and back, but never get the gap right. The poor fit is generally an indication of an original hood, and I never dock points for an uneven gap if the hood is otherwise adjusted properly.

-Kurt

 
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Why do people remove the export braces? Seriously? Guess the removed them to drop that 429 in there and decided that now they don't need them?

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Why do people remove the export braces? Seriously? Guess the removed them to drop that 429 in there and decided that now they don't need them?
Agreed - though when I look at the flimsy steel and huge mounting holes of the stock braces, I have a hard time believing that they really do much of anything. Heck, the bolts at each end would have to shift about 1/4" each before they'd hit the edge of the holes. For that matter, what do the braces bolt to - the cowl flange? Seriously? If you've got your heavy-gauge-steel shock towers bending under force, you're going to need something better to stiffen them than the flange on your cowl.

By no means am I playing the devil's advocate here, but a Monte Carlo bar does a heck of a lot more here.

-Kurt

 
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hmmm, where do we start....

Earl Scheib paint job... didn't mask anything of... door strikers, etc.

No shock tower braces

Funky exhaust

Cheesy steering wheel

Gauge cluster where your leg goes

Factory air (not working - all there except hoses and freon)

warped hood
I agree on all of that - but I don't see the warped hood.

If you're talking about the uneven fender-to-hood gap, that's entirely normal unless it's a repop hood. The factory hoods were radiussed incorrectly - you can get them aligned front and back, but never get the gap right. The poor fit is generally an indication of an original hood, and I never dock points for an uneven gap if the hood is otherwise adjusted properly.

-Kurt
Is that why no matter how hard I try I can't get my hood lines smooth? It's driving me crazy and I know it's original hood.

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Is that why no matter how hard I try I can't get my hood lines smooth? It's driving me crazy and I know it's original hood.
Yep. It's a REAL pain to get these to sit up in the back too - that's why Ford designed the lower front window stops to double as scrapers to keep the hood off the window when closing it. B.S. engineering at its finest.

Some folks claim that some cars came with tons of body shims stuck under the fenders to compensate. Provided that is true, I'd be more inclined to believe that factory shimming was done to compensate for wonky aprons throwing the fender off alignment rather than an even gap.

That reminds me - 614 HSO's right-hand fender sits too far inboard by a quarter inch. I'd loosen it up and yank it around, but the aprons are shot. Might as well fix those first. 3M 8115 to the rescue - I'm fed up with plug welds.

-Kurt

 
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Now you mention it, when I replaced my fenders a lot of shims did fall out. Some are probably still hiding in areas it couldn't find.

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Now you mention it, when I replaced my fenders a lot of shims did fall out. Some are probably still hiding in areas it couldn't find.
Don't bet on them being originals. Remember, your RH fender was treated to a Bondo facial.

-Kurt

 
You mean the shims? I replaced the fenders from a 73 grande that got chopped up and these are in really great shape. Actually the hood lines got better after installing the fenders from another car.

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You mean the shims? I replaced the fenders from a 73 grande that got chopped up and these are in really great shape. Actually the hood lines got better after installing the fenders from another car.
The shims. Who knows what someone did to compensate on your car for the damage? Pulling the fender back into shape wasn't one of them, but shims were.

That's one of the reasons the '73 Grande fenders improved the fender lines that drastically.

-Kurt

 
You mean the shims? I replaced the fenders from a 73 grande that got chopped up and these are in really great shape. Actually the hood lines got better after installing the fenders from another car.
The shims. Who knows what someone did to compensate on your car for the damage? Pulling the fender back into shape wasn't one of them, but shims were.

That's one of the reasons the '73 Grande fenders improved the fender lines that drastically.

-Kurt
Never thought of it that way. Makes a lot of sense.

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I would think the wife is pissed about the burn out in the living room!

floor burnout mark.JPG

Did you see the door tag? Seems it is a Mach 1 with a 351C-2V

decoded door tag.JPG

And "the A/C is all there except hoses and Freon" does anyone else see the condenser in front of the radiator? Reciever drier? How about the missing breather on the air cleaner to the filler cap? Looks like the charcoal canister is not hooked up, if it is even still there (cannot tell from the angle of the photos.

Of course it is easy to bash the car from our computers, but if it was me, I usually like to take care of these details. For $16.5k I am one to make sure some of this nickle and dime stuff is completed. Then when you come and look at the car, you can trash talk the wrong engine in the car yada, yada. But you cannot say I did a half ass job putting it in.

 
Where does he say it is numbers matching?
" TRUE 1973 F05 CODE MACH 1 -w/ '73 date coded 429 factory 4 bbl big block engine "
A phrase easily mis-interpreted by less educated buyers to mean that the car and the engine are original to each other.

-Kurt

 
Where does he say it is numbers matching?
" TRUE 1973 F05 CODE MACH 1 -w/ '73 date coded 429 factory 4 bbl big block engine "
A phrase easily mis-interpreted by less educated buyers to mean that the car and the engine are original to each other.

-Kurt
It does not say the engine is original anywhere.

 
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