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Sep 30, 2010
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Mustang, OK.
My Car
1972 Mach 1 Q code
2007 GT
1969 Cougar Eliminator B302
CSX 7000 Shelby Cobra FIA
2020 Edge ST
2002 F250 V10
Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!

 
Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your dues:cool: heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_369374_369374

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech%20sheets%20new/2010revised/Turbo_Clear.pdf

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm






 
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Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. ;)

 
Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your dues:cool: heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_369374_369374

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech%20sheets%20new/2010revised/Turbo_Clear.pdf

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm

Thanks for the moral support. I did used to receive, as a gift, some excellent "home made remedy" from northern Alabama. Let me know if I can help before you start to paint. Better yet ask Qcode, he actuallly knows what he is doing.

Chuck

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Any experienced painters out there that can suggest effective techniques to emotionally deal with repeated paint screw ups? I almost took a hammer to the car today. Doing final buff when I notice a "shadow" (read through the clear) on the door. After I reattached my head to my shoulders, I masked the entire car, AGAIN, blew some base coat on the door. Thank God it didn't react badly with the clear, THIS time. Let dry. Time for clear coat. Adjusted pressure, pattern, and fluid. First coat looked a little dry, upped the fluid. Second coat looked good. Time to wait. 20 minutes later I go back to the garage. RUNS, SAGS, and ORANGE PEEL!!!! I almost had a S_ _T FIT. Sooo, if any painters have advice on dealing with the near insanity caused by this sort of stuff please let me know what they are. I may self medicate with some old man Jack and High Life until I hear from you.

P.S. After painting this car I now know why paint jobs cost so much, Psychiatrist fees!
Yep..it's called step back & take a chill....What clear are u using ? & what temperature are u spraying at ? The biggest mistakes, people make is not allowing the proper flash time for the product , not using the correct clear for the application, not using the correct reducer for the temperature & not using the correct fluid tip for the product being sprayed..if you used an overall 2k clear when you did the repair on the door there's your problem since you only painted a panel...which requires a spot or panel clear..what happened to you is all part of the game or learning curve..stuff like this you only learn after years of experience (I have over 25+ years in the a/b business & painting was my main area of expertise) If your spraying in a garage or homemade booth you need a infrared digital thermometer to check METAL temperature not room temperature & a timer (to time flash exactly as per the instructions) Watch my epoxy primer vid & you will see how the pro's do it... & heres the clear I would have used for what you described..Welcome to the wonderful world of painting cars..you just paid some of your dues:cool: heres what you need to remove the runs ..My secret weapon ! WORKS AWSOME !!!! You need both corse & fine..saved me many a redo !

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_369374_369374

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech%20sheets%20new/2010revised/Turbo_Clear.pdf

http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/index.htm



 
The Southern Poly looks like a great product. Thanks for putting me on to them. As an update I did manage to salvage the door without a redo. That was the last of the body and paint work, thank God. I don't think I could stand any more at the moment. Again, thanks for the information and help.

Chuck

Glad you got it!

 
ITS ALITTLE LATE. BUT FOR SOME REASON I JUST SAW YOUR POST. YOU ARE ONLY EXPERIENCING WHAT EVERYONE HAS. I REMEMBER ONE TIME WHEN I WORKED AT A CADDILAC DEALERSHIP, WE WERE STILL USUNG ACRYLIC ENAMELS AND I PAINTED A CAR, THOUGHT IT LOOKED GREAT, WALKED OUT HAD A SMOKE CAME BACK AND DIED. I GOT 5 GAL CAN OF REDUCER AND STARTED WASHING IT OFF BY HAND. IT HAPPENS.. DONT KNOW YOUR COLOR BUT LIGHT HIGH METALLICS ARE THE WORST FOR SHADOWS. ( LIKE SILVER) IT COMES FROM THE OVERLAP OF YOUR SPRAY PATTERN. ONE PLACE WET AND THE NEXT DRY, METALLICS CAN BE COLOR ADJUSTED TO DIFFERENT SHADES BY HOW WET YOU SPRAY IT. DRY SPRAY, LIGHTER COLOR, WET SPRAY DARKER COLOR. THATS THE SECRET TO MATCHING SPOT REPAIRS. ALTHO YOU DO STILL NEED A GOOD COLOR MIX FOR SPOT REPAIR. ON COLORS LIKE THAT SOMETIMES I CHANGE DIRECTION OF MY PATTERN, GO LONG WAYS ONCE THEN CROSSWAYS, THEN BACK LONGWAY JUST TO TRY TO EVEN THINGS OUT. YOUR REDUCER AND TEMP WILL HAVE AN EFFECT,BUT MOST HAVE A RANGE OF TEMP USAGE, LIKE 60 TO 75 DEGREES. I GUESS IF I HAD TO MAKE ONE SUGGESTION TO A BEGINNER I WOULD SAY START WITH A REDUCER THAT HAS A MEDIUM DRYING RATE. A SLOW DRYING REDUCER WILL RUN FAST IF ITS TO WET. THE TRICK BEING GETTING IT AS WET AS POSSIBLE FOR FLOW, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO RUN. AGAIN IT HAPPENS TO EVERYONE. I PAINTED MY FIRST CAR AT 15, LOOKED PRETTY GOOD. DESTROYED THE SECOND ONE, AND LEARNED FROM THERE. IM NOW 61 SO I HAVE SEEN A FEW SUCCESES AND FAILURES ANYONE WHO SAYS THEY HAVENT IS NOT A NICE PERSON.

 
ITS ALITTLE LATE. BUT FOR SOME REASON I JUST SAW YOUR POST. YOU ARE ONLY EXPERIENCING WHAT EVERYONE HAS. I REMEMBER ONE TIME WHEN I WORKED AT A CADDILAC DEALERSHIP, WE WERE STILL USUNG ACRYLIC ENAMELS AND I PAINTED A CAR, THOUGHT IT LOOKED GREAT, WALKED OUT HAD A SMOKE CAME BACK AND DIED. I GOT 5 GAL CAN OF REDUCER AND STARTED WASHING IT OFF BY HAND. IT HAPPENS.. DONT KNOW YOUR COLOR BUT LIGHT HIGH METALLICS ARE THE WORST FOR SHADOWS. ( LIKE SILVER) IT COMES FROM THE OVERLAP OF YOUR SPRAY PATTERN. ONE PLACE WET AND THE NEXT DRY, METALLICS CAN BE COLOR ADJUSTED TO DIFFERENT SHADES BY HOW WET YOU SPRAY IT. DRY SPRAY, LIGHTER COLOR, WET SPRAY DARKER COLOR. THATS THE SECRET TO MATCHING SPOT REPAIRS. ALTHO YOU DO STILL NEED A GOOD COLOR MIX FOR SPOT REPAIR. ON COLORS LIKE THAT SOMETIMES I CHANGE DIRECTION OF MY PATTERN, GO LONG WAYS ONCE THEN CROSSWAYS, THEN BACK LONGWAY JUST TO TRY TO EVEN THINGS OUT. YOUR REDUCER AND TEMP WILL HAVE AN EFFECT,BUT MOST HAVE A RANGE OF TEMP USAGE, LIKE 60 TO 75 DEGREES. I GUESS IF I HAD TO MAKE ONE SUGGESTION TO A BEGINNER I WOULD SAY START WITH A REDUCER THAT HAS A MEDIUM DRYING RATE. A SLOW DRYING REDUCER WILL RUN FAST IF ITS TO WET. THE TRICK BEING GETTING IT AS WET AS POSSIBLE FOR FLOW, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO RUN. AGAIN IT HAPPENS TO EVERYONE. I PAINTED MY FIRST CAR AT 15, LOOKED PRETTY GOOD. DESTROYED THE SECOND ONE, AND LEARNED FROM THERE. IM NOW 61 SO I HAVE SEEN A FEW SUCCESES AND FAILURES ANYONE WHO SAYS THEY HAVENT IS NOT A NICE PERSON.
Excellent info!

 
Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. ;)
so just where are you in North Bama?:)
Who me? Bout 5 miles from your state line, not far off I-65. Work in Huntsville.

 
Guess all I can offer is sympathy... I'd offer Gentleman Jack if you were closeby! I haven't painted anything (yet!). I suppose I'm in for some trying moments as well. At least it's just one door?

Try again tomorrow. ;)
so just where are you in North Bama?:)
\


Who me? Bout 5 miles from your state line, not far off I-65. Work in Huntsville.
Yes you, since you were offering Gentleman Jack rofl

 
\

Who me? Bout 5 miles from your state line, not far off I-65. Work in Huntsville.
Yes you, since you were offering Gentleman Jack rofl
Come on down, or better yet I'll meet you at the distillery! in Lynchburg:D
A bunch of my buddies were just there a few weeks ago (imagine that) tonight a bunch are in Nashville to see Bob Segar.

Sorry for the hijack guys just got carried away

 
Yes you, since you were offering Gentleman Jack rofl
Come on down, or better yet I'll meet you at the distillery! in Lynchburg:D
A bunch of my buddies were just there a few weeks ago (imagine that) tonight a bunch are in Nashville to see Bob Segar.

Yeah, the distillery is a nice drive especially spring and fall. I have a buddy who is a "Tennessee Squire". I need to tag along on one of those gatherings.

Sorry for the hijack guys just got carried away

 
I thought Lynchburg was in a "dry" county. Very disappointing when I visited many years ago, couldn't even get a taste.

Chuck

 
You are correct, although you can purchase "souveniers" (haven't found the spell check)
Only in America. I love it! To bad JD doesn't have a frequent "sipper" program.

Chuck

 
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