Need help guys.

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JimNiki

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7173 Mustang Supporter Member
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Location
Queensland, OZ
My Car
71 Mach 1
About 3 weeks ago, I took the mustang to work and back. Everything was fine.

Tried to start it many times since but no go.

It's a pretty standard 351 with cam and carby.

There's fuel from the electric fuel pump. Double check by manually opening the butterfly on the 750 holley to see the good squirts.

The only other thing which I think it could be is the new pertronix 111 billet dizzy/flamethrower 111 coil.

It also feels like it wants to backfire also... The dizzy is still tight in place! It hasn't moved? It was working fine at 14 degrees last time I drove it.

Like always, it starts straight away but dies straight away! Tried it 20 times, starts instantly , dies instantly, starts instantly, dies instantly.

Where should I start? Do the symptoms sound like they're carby related? ( Its done 1000 miles since a full rebuild), or would you suspect a dodgy pertronix module? (I got it from summit, less than 12 months ago.) Or could it be the flamethrower coil?, again bought new with the dizzy.

Or something else again?

Thanks heaps guys ...I'll wait to hear what you guys have to say before I start pulling things off.

 
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Luke, the fact that it starts straight away tells me there is good spark there.

If I had to guess, I wouldv'e said timing related... I should pull the cap off to see if one of the little adv springs has come off or something.

At the end of the day, I can pull the dizzy out and put my other electronic one in, and even pull the carby off and inspect it thoroughly, but I'd rather not if we can trace it to something in particular.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
About 3 weeks ago, I took the mustang to work and back. Everything was fine.

Tried to start it many times since but no go.

It's a pretty standard 351 with cam and carby.

There's fuel from the electric fuel pump. Double check by manually opening the butterfly on the 750 holley to see the good squirts.

The only other thing which I think it could be is the new pertronix 111 billet dizzy/flamethrower 111 coil.

It also feels like it wants to backfire also... The dizzy is still tight in place! It hasn't moved? It was working fine at 14 degrees last time I drove it.

Like always, it starts straight away but dies straight away! Tried it 20 times, starts instantly , dies instantly, starts instantly, dies instantly.

Where should I start? Do the symptoms sound like they're carby related? ( Its done 1000 miles since a full rebuild), or would you suspect a dodgy pertronix module? (I got it from summit, less than 12 months ago.) Or could it be the flamethrower coil?, again bought new with the dizzy.

Or something else again?

Thanks heaps guys ...I'll wait to hear what you guys have to say before I start pulling things off.
Click to expand...
It sounds like you have an ignition issue. You need to check for power to the positive side of the coil while someone attempts to start it. You should have 12 volts while cranking and 9-10 volts with the ignition in th"run" position. The power while cranking is provide by th"I" terminal on the starter relay. After the key is released power is provided via a resistance wire that drops the voltage. Good luck.

Ron

 
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If you know it isn't fuel and you got power then do what Ron suggests then start checking the dizzy and module. I like to eliminate basics first

 
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O.K. Starts...then dies right away. There is a 'run' resistor, I believe...your starting switch connects the ignition coil directly to battery, for max spark, at starting, then when start switch is released, a resistor is then in series with the coil, to prevent it from getting too hot. The run resistor on your car may be bad, or disconnected. If this really seems like the problem, let me know, and I will find where this run resistor lives. Good luck, Mark


Ok...I am new to the forum, and now see you have already found the issue, please disregard my ramblings! Mark

 
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I repair appliances (washer, dryers, dishwasher etc) for a living, I constantly have to remind myself to check the simple stuff, the basics first, It is such a time saver for me when I do. When I don't it most certainly leads to a rabbit trail and a lot of lost time. Im glad you got it going without a lot of wasted time, effort and money.

 
Thanks again guys.

I have pretty much rewired the whole car a few years with about 30 individual fuses! I did this so one thing cannot take others down.

The 10 amp fuse going to the dizzy/coil has never played up before!

I originally had an electronic dizzy with a Bosch solid coil with no probs. Maybe swapping to the oil filled coil is sucking a little more juice.


Thanks again guys.

I have pretty much rewired the whole car a few years with about 30 individual fuses! I did this so one thing cannot take others down.

The 10 amp fuse going to the dizzy/coil has never played up before!

I originally had an electronic dizzy with a Bosch solid coil with no probs. Maybe swapping to the oil filled coil is sucking a little more juice.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Please!! I'm having exactly the same problem.

I turn the key and it starts right and dies instantly, start and dies instantly.

If I connect the positive of the battery in the positive of the coil it goes alright.

Its 100% a electrical issue, thats im sure.

Please send me a picture of the fuse that caused your situation, JimNiki??

picture of the fuse?

Anyone else can help me with the possible causes?

BAD COIL? RELAY? DIODE? FUSE?

 
The start up ignition feed is from the solenoid, the running ignition feed is from the ignition switch. I believe that the circuit runs through a voltage reducing resistor wire. What year do you have, and does it have a factory tach?

 
1973 - mustang mach 1 automatic

factory tachometer

Is that some sort of relay or current limiter?

1.jpg

IMG-20160705-WA0010.jpg

 
I found out where the problem is...

its a bad contact in the run position of the key/ignition...

so the car starts and then dies when the key goes back to run position.

I push and pull a little and it works again... but it need fixing...

But is hard as hell to access that place...

And the switch to repair?

Help?

IMG-20160720-WA0002.jpg

 
You can remove the 4 bolts and the steering column will drop down

Let it come down slowly and support it, so you do not stress the steering shaft rubber coupler

The key moves a metal rod to the switch - it may just be an adjustment

 
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