Eastwood Chassis Black Bad Luck.

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Apr 22, 2013
Messages
1,023
Reaction score
8
Location
san diego
My Car
1973 mustang convertible(some day)
Eastwood Chassis Black Bad Luck.

I had some bad luck with this stuff twice.

First I had two quarts and two cans. The quarts did match the cans and one quart had a much higher sheen then the other. I kept trying to spot fix areas in my engine bay and finally ended up completely sanding down my engine bay and left it in primer.

My next deal was I detailed a bunch of parts, used SEM self etch primer then spray bombed with Eastwood Chassis Black. Two days later the paint scrapes off. Then I read you can't use the stuff over self etching primer. Eastwood says It will never cure and if it does it will flake off. Now I have lots of stuff to strip again. Lesson learned!

No problems with my Rustoleum top coats.

 
If you can spray it, an epoxy semi-gloss on bare metal seems to work well. Just a thought. Chuck

 
I have read several user comments about Eastmans' poor black paint.. I would strongly suggest taking the time to research any of Eastmans products before you buy. IMHO

 
I bought a can of SEM black self etch a few weeks ago from a retailer that I sell parts to.

I may return it. There was no price on the shelf, but I took it up to the register anyways. At just over 20 smackeroos plus tax, t's by far the most expensive spraybomb primer that I've ever purchased. The last cans that I bought were just under 10 bucks each, and I cringed then.

I used our house brand (I work for a company that sells paint and aftermarket body parts) 1K gray self etch on an engine block once. Let it sit for a week before topcoating with Nason black hardened enamel. It too chipped off the next day. It was explained to me that there is a window that the primer is "open" for topcoat, and will skin over when cured. It can be topcoated after the window only after scuffing with Scotchbrite or similar to provide "tooth" for the topcoat.

Haven't tried it since.

 
Hey Guys,

I know you will think that i'm stating the obvious here, but it always pays to read all applicataion and tech info either on the side of the paint tins or aerosols, or refer to the paint companies data sheets if they produce them for any particular paint product you might be using. The net is a good source for this info. I'm a pro auto painter, and after 38 years in the game, i still religiously check tech info before i use any paint that i'm not totally familiar with.

A lot of DIY boys mix and match their primers and top coats as well as different paint brands, and paint types these days, and it's easy to come undun with paint problems such as the ones stated above, if you don't do the homework first.

Wise old saying - Measure twice, cut once.;)

Greg.:)

 
Hey Guys,

I know you will think that i'm stating the obvious here, but it always pays to read all applicataion and tech info either on the side of the paint tins or aerosols, or refer to the paint companies data sheets if they produce them for any particular paint product you might be using. The net is a good source for this info. I'm a pro auto painter, and after 38 years in the game, i still religiously check tech info before i use any paint that i'm not totally familiar with.

A lot of DIY boys mix and match their primers and top coats as well as different paint brands, and paint types these days, and it's easy to come undun with paint problems such as the ones stated above, if you don't do the homework first.

Wise old saying - Measure twice, cut once.;)

Greg.:)
I hear you Greg. Just got lazy! Now I have a days worth of work to strip this stuff.:(

 
When I have something that lives in a harsh environment and needs to be "pretty" and bulletproof I like to "etch" the base metal then use epoxy primer and a Urethane topcoat. I'll babysit the primer until it's tacky but doesn't pull and barely takes a fingerprint then top coat it as slow as the paint will go and still melt without hazing or beading. All the timing is a little tedious but it's bulletproof. It's good to have a test panel nearby to check your progress.

 
i used SEM gray self etch then SEM semi flat black Trim for the engine bay, been holding for over 6 years now.

 
Used Eastwood semigloss chassis black on engine compartment of my 66. Went on nice and flat. I mixed exactly as directed and for some reason the paint is not durable at all. You can run your finger across it with some light dust on it and it scratches like crazy. Should be much more durable. I've painted cars for 15 years so not like I didn't know what I was doing.

 
Hey Guys,

One thing i should have added to my post above was to comment on the fact that there are instances where a paint company will release a paint product that is faulty or won't perform as well as it should, or as well as it was intended or reccomended by the company. In these cases, the buying public end up being the victims or guinea pigs of this rubbish with their paints not performing as they should, and causing paint problems when used.

Would you believe that i'm using an international leading brand of paint at my place of work right now that's performing badly in several ways. My company was forced to use this paint system, so we have no option to get rid of it.

Sorry i can't mention the paint company name, because of potential law suites against myself. But i wanted to use that as an example of what goes on out there in the real world so to speak. Most of the time paints will perform OK when used to the companies directions, and applied in the correct manner, but the reality is that there are sometimes dodgy products out there, and the trick is to avoid them as best you can.

Greg.:s

 
Hello guys. I actually used the Eastwood "original" chassis satin black in my engine compartment, which I actually just finished last week. I used the aerosol paint and it went on great. The black was deep and had a little more gloss than just satin. Over a month or to, the gloss lessened and the black was not as deep. I finished painting the rest of the engine compartment and there is a notable difference. Over time it will blend in. As far as quality, it worked for me and im happy with it, and so is my wallet. I will post a picture showing the difference.

From my understanding the Extreme Chassis black has more solids, which rumor has it was the actual "original" chassis black. Eastwood renamed the "original" formula Extreme and released an Original Chassis black with lower solid content and lower price.


here you go


The shock towers and crossmembers are freshly painted in the picture. The rest of the front clip is the earlier work

20151112_133308.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I used the eastwood chassis black (satin) in gallon can. I have used it on several cars with very good results. looks as close to factory under hood paint as I have seen. My favorite used to be the DAR 9000 from PPG. But I no longer can afford PPG paints. They were great then cost became so great on their products I switched to the OMNI line. It was OK too but then they came out with shopline. They said at the paint shop it was the same. Well I have had nothing but issues with it. I wont ever use it again! I have painted cars as an armature for 30 years. I have never had the issues I had with the shop line paint. But the paints have changed so much because of laws that were passed we are for the most part just shooting plastics now. I love the look of the new water born paints but it isn't really possible to use it with out special booths.

 
Thank you for the compliment. This is what I started off with . I stripped the front clip and cleaned the engine compartment with acetone and old white cotton t shirts. I cleaned down to the original paint and bare metal in the area around the master cylinder. About 40 hours later, I finished cleaning and went on to sand with 320 grit. Bare metal got two coats of rust encapsulator followed by two thick coats of chassis satin black. Cracks in the shock towers were ground and welded.

After that reinforcement plates were welded in place, the rest of the engine compartment was prepped and painted. The reason for the reinforcement plates is they are a temporary fix which will allow me to drive my car for now. After some saving and hopefully finding the space to do it, the whole front clip will be replaced. Other than the cracks, there is some minor damage from a previous crash. You can see the wrinkled front apron.

20150401_112036-1.jpg

 
Back
Top