Block sanding

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manyo

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Oct 21, 2013
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Location
Washinton Twp, MI USA
My Car
71 Mach 1
I am in the process of block sanding my 71 . I have applied ppg epoxy sealer, 4 coats hi build primer, and some metal glaze . My question is when blocking is complete, can I just nail it with more hi build , or do I need to reapply epoxy sealer and then primer? I did violate the epoxy and there are a few small areas of bare steel showing.

Thank you in advance for the advice!!!!!

 
Hi Manyo,

Your question was - when blocking is complete, can I just nail it with more hi build , or do I need to reapply epoxy sealer and then primer? I did violate the epoxy and there are a few small areas of bare steel showing.

Paul's link above offers excellent advice and mostly covers it. But in regards your specific question about spraying more coats of 2Pak primer filler or Hi Build over the small exposed bare steel areas that you rubbed through, my advice would be to look up the data useage sheets for PPG or better, contact the tech department and get specific advice from them. I'm assuming you're using PPG brand all the way through. Why i say that is because paint do's and dont's can vary from paint company to paint company.The key question here is whether you can spray epoxy primer over 2pak primer filler, when it comes to spot priming your bare metal rub throughs. Or to put it more directly, can epoxy primer be successfully sprayed over 2Pak primer filler, because in your case, that's what you will end up doing if you attempt to spot prime again with epoxy primer over the bare steel rub through areas. I would say no to that, but i may stand corrected by different paint companies, and spraypainters.

For example, some painters might say spray a light coat of single pak etch primer on the bare metal areas, and then move into your 2Pak primer filler to build up again, and some might say just use the primer filler straight onto the bare steel rub throughs. So to be sure you get it right and nail it, i would talk to the boys at PPG and get the exact lowdown on what you can or cannot do in this specific instance.

Hope that helps,

Greg.

 
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You're welcome M.

BTW - Don't let the bare steel areas be exposed too long as surface rust moves into the steel very fast, and that creates new problems you don't want to deal with.:( Handy hint - dust a light coat of single pack primer over the steel areas to temp seal them. Later you can wash the primer off with thinners and then continue to do what you want to do. That process will stop any rust from growing.

Greg.:)

 
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Did you use a guide coat? Also you should use contrasting color between epoxy and hi-build so you can see the color change. After you spray the hi-build, mist on a guide coat of black, and sand until removed. This is the only way to know if the body is straight. You will have to build up around the bare metal (high spot) to get the panel flat. If you have any questions just ask, there are some VERY good body guys on here.

 
most paint systems will allow you to use your primmer/filler or hi build on small break through, the epoxy has a better bonding when you are doing completes and gives a good foundation to do any body work on top of that. On top of steel you should have not problem if it was on top of alum I use a wiz bomb can of self etch primer on the bare spots and then shoot the primer/filler on top of that. lightly spraying the panels with black wiz bomb before block sanding makes a good guide coat but clogs up sandpaper fast at first, normally you can just keep an eye on the orange peal and sand till that is gone. alternate going with the panel and across the panel to get it strait in all directions.

 
Did you use a guide coat? Also you should use contrasting color between epoxy and hi-build so you can see the color change. After you spray the hi-build, mist on a guide coat of black, and sand until removed. This is the only way to know if the body is straight. You will have to build up around the bare metal (high spot) to get the panel flat. If you have any questions just ask, there are some VERY good body guys on here.
Yes, I did use guide coat. It worked awesome. Thank you for your input!! have a great weekend.



most paint systems will allow you to use your primmer/filler or hi build on small break through, the epoxy has a better bonding when you are doing completes and gives a good foundation to do any body work on top of that. On top of steel you should have not problem if it was on top of alum I use a wiz bomb can of self etch primer on the bare spots and then shoot the primer/filler on top of that. lightly spraying the panels with black wiz bomb before block sanding makes a good guide coat but clogs up sandpaper fast at first, normally you can just keep an eye on the orange peal and sand till that is gone. alternate going with the panel and across the panel to get it strait in all directions.
Thanks!! have a good weekend!



most paint systems will allow you to use your primmer/filler or hi build on small break through, the epoxy has a better bonding when you are doing completes and gives a good foundation to do any body work on top of that. On top of steel you should have not problem if it was on top of alum I use a wiz bomb can of self etch primer on the bare spots and then shoot the primer/filler on top of that. lightly spraying the panels with black wiz bomb before block sanding makes a good guide coat but clogs up sandpaper fast at first, normally you can just keep an eye on the orange peal and sand till that is gone. alternate going with the panel and across the panel to get it strait in all directions.
Thanks!! have a good weekend!

 
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