Power Steering Pump

My PSP has been leaking so it was time to bring it in (My DIY days are over for things like that).

The 73 302 also has A/C and the shop is telling me that they need to drain the R12 in order to move the A/C compressor to get to the PSP.

Therefore they need the kit to convert the A/C to R134.

Obviously, the price has been going up.

Does the A/C need to be drain of R12 in order to replace the PSP?

No I've removed my pump without having to touch the AC compressor.

You may need to pop the horns and wiper reservoir.

Worst case you can unbolt the AC compressor and just move it a little.

You may need to remove the fan and shroud to get front clearance.

But I know I took my pump out to swap it without draining the AC compressor.

My PSP has been leaking so it was time to bring it in (My DIY days are over for things like that).

The 73 302 also has A/C and the shop is telling me that they need to drain the R12 in order to move the A/C compressor to get to the PSP.

Therefore they need the kit to convert the A/C to R134.

Obviously, the price has been going up.

Does the A/C need to be drain of R12 in order to replace the PSP?

Click to expand...

Could the A/C set up be different from the factory than dealer or aftermarket installed. My guy is saying that my A/C set up wasn't done at the factory? Maybe that could be the reason why he's saying it needs to be drained as it does need to be removed.

No I've removed my pump without having to touch the AC compressor.

You may need to pop the horns and wiper reservoir.

Worst case you can unbolt the AC compressor and just move it a little.

You may need to remove the fan and shroud to get front clearance.

But I know I took my pump out to swap it without draining the AC compressor.

My PSP has been leaking so it was time to bring it in (My DIY days are over for things like that).

The 73 302 also has A/C and the shop is telling me that they need to drain the R12 in order to move the A/C compressor to get to the PSP.

Therefore they need the kit to convert the A/C to R134.

Obviously, the price has been going up.

Does the A/C need to be drain of R12 in order to replace the PSP?

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

it is possible. take a photo of the area with the compressor it will tell if the area is original or not.

there are different aftermarket A/C systems that could of been installed on the car.

however most AC compressors are installed above the power steering pump.

there is enough clearance to get that out without messing with the factory A/C compressor.

however it should be noted. Even if the A/C compressor is in the way. you can unbolt the compressor and move it without draining it. you just have to support it out of the way with a wire holder or some wood supporting it.

either way the fan and shroud is going to have to come out to remove the belts. that gains you at least 6" of space forward and you pull the Wiper Washer bottle and you could remove the horns for more room.

Can the PSP be installed on a different angle?

I've noticed that the tube to fill the pump is located a lot closer on an angle towards the drivers side fender. It's pretty much right under the horn.

I did see a picture of the pump and saw that it has 3 bolts to secure it. Maybe the shop didn't line it up properly so the fill tube is straight up and clear to pull the dip handle.


The A/C is factory as per build sheet. But I figured WTH as it's prob better to have the R134a installed as R12 is getting harder and more expensive to get.

it is possible. take a photo of the area with the compressor it will tell if the area is original or not.

there are different aftermarket A/C systems that could of been installed on the car.

however most AC compressors are installed above the power steering pump.

there is enough clearance to get that out without messing with the factory A/C compressor.

however it should be noted. Even if the A/C compressor is in the way. you can unbolt the compressor and move it without draining it. you just have to support it out of the way with a wire holder or some wood supporting it.

either way the fan and shroud is going to have to come out to remove the belts. that gains you at least 6" of space forward and you pull the Wiper Washer bottle and you could remove the horns for more room.

Click to expand...

no R12 is better, plus you can still get it if you ask its just more expensive.

if the A/C system is working DO NOT OPEN IT you are asking for problems.

the pump can be installed around the a/c compressor or you can move the compressor still connected.

again fan needs to come out, rad shroud, i would remove the Washer bottle(2 bolts, one hose and a connector clip for the motor)

then you will have enough room to maneuver it.

if you open that A/C system your looking at problems with O-rings, compressor oil, Dryer, that is going to lead you to a new dryer, expansion valve, possible condenser, and more, it will balloon to over 1000$ instantly. 132 expands different then R12 so you have to under pressure the system or the compressor will lock up. plus draining R12 oil from the system for a 100% flush is like impossible without swapping in new parts.

find another shop or do it yourself if you can.

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as far as angle of the pump, no its all dictated by the bracket that holds the pump. the bracket could be broken or a bolt missing or something.

i have pictures when i installed my replacement pump somewhere i'll see if i took any during the swap.

hey i actually found the photos i took from 2008 when i swapped my pump..

I did have to unbolt my a/c compressor, I had it lifted up sitting on a 2x4 across the top of the motor with the hoses still connected, i unbolted it from the engine bracket and i left the bracket on the motor. i just moved the compressor backwards enough to get to the power steering bolts. there is one large bolt that runs through the pivot so you can adjust tension on the belt.

i removed the other stuff as i mentioned and did the swap. photobucket is down at the moment, but the pump will have 4 bolts

now what i did forget was you need a pulley puller and installer tool set. you have to remove the pulley from the pump to get access to the 2 bolts that hold it to the bracket. 1 bolt is a pivot and the 4th bolt is a lock down for the adjustment of the belt.

replacement pump that i rebuilt.



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after install and rebuilding, note a/c compressor is unbolted from base, i couldn't get the photo to upload of the compressor moved back over the intake and valve covers to make space, but the hoses were still connected.



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My new pump angle looks like yours.

Interesting that the original PSP (or what I assume was the original) the fill tube in straight up and not on an angle. Now when I say straight up, its more leaning closer to the engine. (sort of 12 o'clock instead of 1 o'clock).

it will change angle depending on how loose or tight the belt is. there is quite a range of movement on it.

I actually just worked on my steering system i installed a steering pump cooler on my car.

oh another thing, if you do have the pump worked on.

Make sure the steering system is filled with TYPE F trans fluid, (NOT! modern power steering fluid!!!)

there is a difference the original system and pump was designed to use ford transmission fluid.

it expands differently then modern power steering fluid do not use it.

I just recently changed out my power steering pump. No need to drain or even move factory a/c unit. All I removed was the windsheild washer container and there is plenty of room to work and remove pump. The ps bracket can only be removed after you remove the pulley. The remaing 2 bolts then can be removed to take off the bracket. Please use only Type F transmission fluid and you may have to add again after you drive the Mustang the first time.

R-12 freon is still avalable if you ask and it isn't that much more expensive anymore. I had mine charged recently and it was worth keeping it R-12 as the system was designed to use this freon.