HELP: Brake pedal travel?

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Joined
Dec 21, 2013
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Location
Brier, Washington
My Car
1972 Fastback (Factory sprint, but now a bright red Mach 1)
351c 2v(big ol cam, holley dominator intake, roller set, edelbrock 4bbl)

fmx
I redid my brakes a few months ago and they seem a little bit weak. The pedal travels about 2.25 inches then starts to brake. From that point, the pedal travels maybe 1.5 or 2 inches before hitting what feels like a stop and the pedal wont go down any further. That doesn't seem like that much distance to brake to me, but perhaps it is just normal.:huh: They are relatively weak and I cannot even get them to lock up.:s

To give an idea of what has been done, here:

-Resurfaced discs

-New bearings

-New calipers

-New pads all around

-Rear drum rebuild kit

-New drum brake cylinders

-bled and adjusted

Hopefully somebody could point out something that could be wrong with them.

Thanks guys!! :D

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Incorrect pushrod length from booster if you have one to master cylinder?

I redid my brakes a few months ago and they seem a little bit weak. The pedal travels about 2.25 inches then starts to brake. From that point, the pedal travels maybe 1.5 or 2 inches before hitting what feels like a stop and the pedal wont go down any further. That doesn't seem like that much distance to brake to me, but perhaps it is just normal.:huh: They are relatively weak and I cannot even get them to lock up.:s

To give an idea of what has been done, here:

-Resurfaced discs

-New bearings

-New calipers

-New pads all around

-Rear drum rebuild kit

-New drum brake cylinders

-bled and adjusted

Hopefully somebody could point out something that could be wrong with them.

Thanks guys!! :D
 
Rear drums out of adjustment can cause excess travel. If you hit the brake a second time immediately, does the travel reduce.?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have drum brakes and recall that my pedal is not great until the shoes are adjusted to fit against the drum -- the rear brakes in your case. The self-adjusting screws expand when putting car in Reverse and hitting the brakes a few times. If the self-adjusting screws are siezed (or on wrong side -- it does matter if it is Left or Right) then they will not adjust correctly.

 
I tried doing the reverse stops to adjust it, but I think they are seized. I have adjusted them in the past to make up for the travel but the travel returned within a week and a half or so.

When I hit the brake the second time the travel does not reduce.

I'll bleed them, and adjust one more time and we'll see.

I don't really know anything about boosters, how could I tell if it was bad?

Thanks!

 
I have also manually adjusted the screws to get a better pedal -- I will also admit that I one time switched the adjustable screws by mistake. Lesson learned.

 
To check the booster pump the brake pedal several times with the engine off. Hold the pedal down and start the engine. If the booster is good you'll feel the pedal pull down a half inch or so. Also check the vacuum line to the intake manifold and the check valve.

 
well you can test the adjusters, you will need to jack the car up and pop both rear wheels and then take the drum covers off, exposing the drum brakes

on the rear of each drum you will see a cable that runs down the secondary pad to the adjuster at the bottom.

if you push on the cable it will flex the star adjuster plate that moves the star adjuster. each tug on that cable will turn the adjuster 1 tooth.

so if you push on it a couple of times the star adjuster will turn and open up tightening the brake shoe against the drum.

if it doesn't move it could be frozen, if you push the cable and the star adjuster retracts then you know it is on the wrong side.

you want to check both sides to make sure.

 
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