Crack on hood paint near hood locks

There is a crack below the hood lock. The hood deforms slightly if pushed or pulled to hard in that area. The crack follows that deformation. Any ideas on how can the crack be repaired? and how to prevent it from getting worse and from happening again?

Thanks.

I can't tell for sure but it looks to be a bondo crack. Have you looked under the hood for damage?

I think there is bondo in this area. Under the hood all looks okay except that the lip appears to have bondo as well. I may have to look more carefully or don't know what to look for. I tried the Pro-gauge magnet and I don't get too much force on the areas near both corners of the hood.

I am not going to have good news for you. What will happen here is moisture will get in there and cause rust to form, creating more and more damage. There is no way that I know of to "match fix" the problem easily, it will need to be stripped, repaired correctly, and repainted. Scott or Gregg may have a better suggestion to seal it temporarily but it will not match the color on the hood.

I am not going to have good news for you. What will happen here is moisture will get in there and cause rust to form, creating more and more damage. There is no way that I know of to "match fix" the problem easily, it will need to be stripped, repaired correctly, and repainted. Scott or Greg may have a better suggestion to seal it temporarily but it will not match the color on the hood.

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Hi Tony,

What Wendell says above is very true, and i can't really add anymore to what he has told you here. The only thing extra i would say in regards to future prevention issues is..................

I have the same setup on my '73 vert hood as you do with the locks. I bought repro lock kits and installed them myself, as there were no original locks on my car. What i did notice was that the sheet metal around that immediate lock area, tends to be fairly flexible in it's own right. There is no inner skin reinforcement provided around the immediate lock area to provde a more non flex and stable take up for the locks.

Now, the locking pin shafts are vertically depth adjustable. When you close your hood and then engage the locks by pushing down and twisting around to lock them in, you don't want to end up with a situation where you are flexing and forcing the surrounding sheet metal down as well. That's a big no no. You should adjust the locking mechanisims so that there is no downward pressure and flexing and depressing of the sheet metal at all around the locks, when you engage your locks.

I have no bondo in my hood at all, you do in that area around the lock. The excessive degree of flexing means that in your case, the bondo and primer fillers won't tolerate that degree of flexing, and end up cracking under the stress of the flexing metal. So the main issue here is to check and see that this flexing thing is going on at all. If it is, make the necessary adjustments to the lock pins to prevent this from happening in the future.Wendell's comment on the color match may prove true. That color matching will have to be taken on by a good pro painter to get it right for the final result. If you have some same colored paint left over,from a previous job, that's a big bonus.

Greg.

Is there any product I could use temporarily to seal the crack even if it doesnt look perfect?

Is there any product I could use temporarily to seal the crack even if it doesnt look perfect?

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Perhaps use some epoxy?

just a suggestion.

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Quick question in addition to the advice above: Is the hood lock adjusted too low, pulling the hood sheet metal down? If not, any evidence to suggest it ever was?

The curvature of the crack certainly seems to follow the curve I'd expect from a hood pulled down from a twist-lock set too tight.

-Kurt

Right now I think the hood lock is adjusted perfect. There is no permanent deformation on the hood. However, if someone not knowing how to open the hood (such as me when I got the car or at a mechanic shop - previous owner had it serviced) pushes down on the hood too hard to lock it it will bend right there.

Right now I think the hood lock is adjusted perfect. There is no permanent deformation on the hood. However, if someone not knowing how to open the hood (such as me when I got the car or at a mechanic shop - previous owner had it serviced) pushes down on the hood too hard to lock it it will bend right there.

Click to expand...

I could not get my locks adjusted right and still have them catch and I was worried about just the situation you encountered. i could see that the metal was flexing in that area.

For now, I'm just leaving them open. Might have to look more closely at the components for wear. Hopefully, you will get a good result on the repair. Good luck

Right now I think the hood lock is adjusted perfect. There is no permanent deformation on the hood. However, if someone not knowing how to open the hood (such as me when I got the car or at a mechanic shop - previous owner had it serviced) pushes down on the hood too hard to lock it it will bend right there.

Click to expand...

I could not get my locks adjusted right and still have them catch and I was worried about just the situation you encountered. i could see that the metal was flexing in that area.

For now, I'm just leaving them open. Might have to look more closely at the components for wear. Hopefully, you will get a good result on the repair. Good luck

Click to expand...

Hi Twins,

I could not get my locks adjusted right and still have them catch.

Have you tried all tricks to adjust them, or if you don't mind me asking, do you know what to do to adjust them?

Greg.

Is there any product I could use temporarily to seal the crack even if it doesnt look perfect?

Click to expand...

Tony,

The best, CHEAPEST, and easiest product is clear acrylic lacquer. Neatly pencil brush the crack line and that will temp seal it off from the elements. If you find it hard to get hold of some, just buy a rattle can of clear lacquer, spray some into the cup lid, and use your pencil brush in the same manner.

Greg.

Right now I think the hood lock is adjusted perfect. There is no permanent deformation on the hood. However, if someone not knowing how to open the hood (such as me when I got the car or at a mechanic shop - previous owner had it serviced) pushes down on the hood too hard to lock it it will bend right there.

Click to expand...

I could not get my locks adjusted right and still have them catch and I was worried about just the situation you encountered. i could see that the metal was flexing in that area.

For now, I'm just leaving them open. Might have to look more closely at the components for wear. Hopefully, you will get a good result on the repair. Good luck

Click to expand...

Hi Twins,

I could not get my locks adjusted right and still have them catch.

Have you tried all tricks to adjust them, or if you don't mind me asking, do you know what to do to adjust them?

Greg.

Is there any product I could use temporarily to seal the crack even if it doesnt look perfect?

Click to expand...

Tony,

The best, CHEAPEST, and easiest product is clear acrylic lacquer. Neatly pencil brush the crack line and that will temp seal it off from the elements. If you find it hard to get hold of some, just buy a rattle can of clear lacquer, spray some into the cup lid, and use your pencil brush in the same manner.

Greg.

Click to expand...

Educate me my friend. I recall loosening the bolt on the threaded part so it could be adjusted. On one side I think I could not get the bolt loose and did not want to go at it that day.

Give me some tricks!!!! I was wondering if the lower parts were worn a bit and not allowing the notched part of the bolt to catch in the receptacle meant for it or perhaps that receptacle part is bent a bit?.

Hi Jeff,

Sorry there if i appeared to be rude in my response to you. That was not my intention. When i installed my locks, it was a learning curve for me, as to how the whole thing was going to turn out and would it work.

Firstly, when you push down on your locks from above, there is a maximum amount of shaft travel, or protrudence of the shaft. So the idea is that when your hood is closed properly, and you fully push down on the locks to close or lock them, the notched tip of the shaft should protrude a little lower than the level of the hole of the docking plate. In that operation, there is no provided adjustment as such.

Where the adjustment comes in, is with that nut on the upper threaded part of the shaft. So by raising or lowering that nut, it will effect how much upwards travel the shaft has when you are locking or unlocking the locks. So to clarify, the downwards displacement of the shaft is fixed, and the upwards displacement is adjustable.

Much to my surprise, i found that when i was installing the docking plates, there was no up and down adjustment provided at all, except for the one lower bolt hole. I had expected to find all elongated holes for such adjustment, but no. What that means is that you are then relying on the hood not to be sitting too high when it's fully closed, the radiator support panel to be positioned just right where the docking plates are attached to.

One way of finding out if the locking shaft notched tips protrude just past the docking plate holes, is to grab another person, and have them gently push dowm on the locks from above when the hood is fully closed, and you lye on the ground and look up into the front engine bay where the locks should become visible. You will then see if this is occuring or not.

Here's where the tricks come in. If you find that notched shaft tip is sitting above the hole in the docking plate, when you have fully pushed down on the lock from above, you will have to raise the sitting height of the docking plate. There are two ways of doing this. Firstly, remove the docking plate and elongate the lower mounting hole longer with a quality rotary rasp, thus providing a little more up and down adjustment, or swap over the adjustable docking plate entry hole plate from sitting below the docking plate to be sitting now above the docking plate. This entry hole plate can have some packing washers or shims used as well, when it is sitting on top now, if you really need to gain more height than expected of the docking plate.

In my case, i was happy to find that i didn't need to make any of those adjustments to the docking plates, as my notched shafts protruded just below the docking plate holes. My entry hole plates sit below the docking plates as well. The only adjustments i made were to the nuts on the lock shafts. You well might find that's the same case for you. Try some penetrating oil like WD 40 to help release your frozen shaft nut, so you can adjust it.

So if you follow this procedure with the correct docking plate height, and the correct adustment of the nut on the lock shaft, you should end up with a result where, when you push down and turn your locks clock wise to engage them in lock mode, there is zero downward pressure on the sheet metal. Also, when you gently push down and turn your locks anti clock wise to disengage or unlock them, there will also be no downwards pressure on the sheet metal as well. I hope all that makes some kind of sense,and i think i got all that right. If you disagree with anything i've said here,or have other ideas, let me know. I know it's hard to describe these things in written form over the net.

I would first try and make trial and error adjustments to the shaft nuts,for up and down shaft movement, and see if you have any wins there. If that process doesn't work for you, move into adjusting the docking plates, and see if that works.

BTW - are your hood locks factory or aftermarket ones like mine? That could have something to do with it that i may not know about, as i have never tinkered around with factory locks before.

Thanks Jeff,

See my pics below to help describe the parts and operations i'm talking about.

Hi Jeff,

Sorry there if i appeared to be rude in my response to you. That was not my intention. When i installed my locks, it was a learning curve for me, as to how the whole thing was going to turn out and would it work.

Firstly, when you push down on your locks from above, there is a maximum amount of shaft travel, or protrudence of the shaft. So the idea is that when your hood is closed properly, and you fully push down on the locks to close or lock them, the notched tip of the shaft should protrude a little lower than the level of the hole of the docking plate. In that operation, there is no provided adjustment as such.

Where the adjustment comes in, is with that nut on the upper threaded part of the shaft. So by raising or lowering that nut, it will effect how much upwards travel the shaft has when you are locking or unlocking the locks. So to clarify, the downwards displacement of the shaft is fixed, and the upwards displacement is adjustable.

Much to my surprise, i found that when i was installing the docking plates, there was no up and down adjustment provided at all, except for the one lower bolt hole. I had expected to find all elongated holes for such adjustment, but no. What that means is that you are then relying on the hood not to be sitting too high when it's fully closed, the radiator support panel to be positioned just right where the docking plates are attached to.

One way of finding out if the locking shaft notched tips protrude just past the docking plate holes, is to grab another person, and have them gently push dowm on the locks from above when the hood is fully closed, and you lye on the ground and look up into the front engine bay where the locks should become visible. You will then see if this is occuring or not.

Here's where the tricks come in. If you find that notched shaft tip is sitting above the hole in the docking plate, when you have fully pushed down on the lock from above, you will have to raise the sitting height of the docking plate. There are two ways of doing this. Firstly, remove the docking plate and elongate the lower mounting hole longer with a quality rotary rasp, thus providing a little more up and down adjustment, or swap over the adjustable docking plate entry hole plate from sitting below the docking plate to be sitting now above the docking plate. This entry hole plate can have some packing washers or shims used as well, when it is sitting on top now, if you really need to gain more height than expected of the docking plate.

In my case, i was happy to find that i didn't need to make any of those adjustments to the docking plates, as my notched shafts protruded just below the docking plate holes. My entry hole plates sit below the docking plates as well. The only adjustments i made were to the nuts on the lock shafts. You well might find that's the same case for you. Try some penetrating oil like WD 40 to help release your frozen shaft nut, so you can adjust it.

So if you follow this procedure with the correct docking plate height, and the correct adustment of the nut on the lock shaft, you should end up with a result where, when you push down and turn your locks clock wise to engage them in lock mode, there is zero downward pressure on the sheet metal. Also, when you gently push down and turn your locks anti clock wise to disengage or unlock them, there will also be no downwards pressure on the sheet metal as well. I hope all that makes some kind of sense,and i think i got all that right. If you disagree with anything i've said here,or have other ideas, let me know. I know it's hard to describe these things in written form over the net.

I would first try and make trial and error adjustments to the shaft nuts,for up and down shaft movement, and see if you have any wins there. If that process doesn't work for you, move into adjusting the docking plates, and see if that works.

BTW - are your hood locks factory or aftermarket ones like mine? That could have something to do with it that i may not know about, as i have never tinkered around with factory locks before.

Thanks Jeff,

See my pics below to help describe the parts and operations i'm talking about.

Click to expand...

No. I didn't think you were being rude! I really meant it. Educate me. And you did. I have tried the adjustments but that was the first day I got the car. I'll go at it again. I do need to get under the car and actually see what is going on with the engagement. That's first.

And, sorry to the OP about the thread hijack!

Greg,

In looking at your "docking plate" you have the wrong bolts installed for the catch plate..That catch plate actually can move quite a bit..So I will add that if your catch plate isn't centered under the lock shaft you can move the catch plate to make sure it's in line with the lock shaft

Hi Scott,

What you say is all correct. I failed to make mention that i changed the original catch plate bolts to my own more heavy duty bolts, because i wasn't happy with the strength of the others. I still have adjustment with my newer bolts as well. Thanks for pointing that out, as alighnment of the catch plate plays it's part as well.

Greg.

Hi Scott,

What you say is all correct. I failed to make mention that i changed the original catch plate bolts to my own more heavy duty bolts, because i wasn't happy with the strength of the others. I still have adjustment with my newer bolts as well. Thanks for pointing that out, as alighnment of the catch plate plays it's part as well.

Greg.

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Thanks guys. I'll spend some time working with the various parts. I'm glad I stopped using the locks for now though to avoid any issues with the paint.

Thanks guys. I'll spend some time working with the various parts. I'm glad I stopped using the locks for now though to avoid any issues with the paint.

Click to expand...

If you stop using the locks, how are you keeping the hood locked and the pins down?

Thanks guys. I'll spend some time working with the various parts. I'm glad I stopped using the locks for now though to avoid any issues with the paint.

Click to expand...

If you stop using the locks, how are you keeping the hood locked and the pins down?

Click to expand...

Tony,

If you stop using the locks, they become redundant and you are back to relying on your factory center hood catch to hold your hood down.

When not in use,the shaft pins spring back up and stay in that position doing nothing. You then get the appearence, when the hood is closed, of the circular chrome twist locks raised and standing up from the hood. It looks a bit strange in that respect. In Jeff's case, he will disengage his locks, and they will sit up in the air doing nothing. Hope you found the info on ajusting your locks and as well, the info on temp and permanent repair of your hood good for you.

Greg.