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Fuel delivery question regarding fuel pump


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I was trying to figure out why it feels like my car is falling over when I really get on it. I was adjusting floats when I noticed the fuel coming in bursts. The fuel pump looks to be pumping in a way I would not expect. With an 8 pound pump I would expect to see continuous flw and not this. Any thoughts. Engine is awful noisy considering I have new heads, cams, lifters, and and and. Here is the video.

 

 

Second question. What the heck is this thing?


Forgot to publish. Should work now.

1682419602_whattheheck.thumb.jpg.c4d5a171cf3ecd94d2d666c9190b809a.jpg

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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Stock diaphragm pump pulses fuel normal.

 

Looks like heater control valve to me.

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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How does it work. My car has one temp right now, hot no matter what adjustment is set. Where does the vacuum connect under the dash.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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Looks like I will have to lay under the dash and look around for a little while. Heat in the summer is no Bueno in Memphis.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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Looks like I will have to lay under the dash and look around for a little while. Heat in the summer is no Bueno in Memphis.

 

That little vacuum valve is located behind the carton glove box, you can feel it with your hand...

 

Also included in previous message a PDF file for download

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Today I adjusted the floats and I am finally close on tune. Still can't just stomp on it and go like hell. Think I have some jetting to do. Upside is the tranny seems good. All the odd shaking was the bad tune and exhaust noise.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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There is WAY too much valve train noise if that is a hydraulic cam. When it was revved it sounded almost like a dead mis. Does it have fixed position bolt down rockers or adjustable rockers? How was the cam broken in and what oil is in the engine? You need to find out what is causing the noise.

 

When you call for heat vacuum is switched to the heater control valve which opens to allow hot water to circulate through the heater core.

 

Chuck

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I thought the same thing on the valve train noise especially since I just spent a crap pile of money to have the heads rebuilt. New cams and lifters and it goes glickity clack all day long. Has ZPD additive from summit plus high zinc oil. I drive the car, that is my break-in. Please tell me what I am supposed to do now. Engine work has 6 month warranty.

 

I bought this cam and lifter set. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K5200

 

Fixed position rockers.

 

Would love to know what the proper breakin is. He told me to change oil after 1000 miles. I am at about 250. IS there anything I need to do now? It is noisy but I have no experience with clevelands and this is my first, it is a lot quieter than before and thus it seemed odd but nod alarmingly odd.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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Adjustable rockers or not?

 

Only time water does NOT flow through core is when temp lever is set to "Cool"

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I thought the same thing on the valve train noise especially since I just spent a crap pile of money to have the heads rebuilt. New cams and lifters and it goes glickity clack all day long. Has ZPD additive from summit plus high zinc oil. I drive the car, that is my break-in. Please tell me what I am supposed to do now. Engine work has 6 month warranty.

 

Fixed position rockers.

 

Would love to know what the proper breakin is. He told me to change oil after 1000 miles. I am at about 250.

 

Email me and I'll send you my contact information. The phone works better for me. Chuck

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Pull the valve covers and turn the engine over by hand and check the valve train for any obvious failures Misadjustments or problems. Rocker arms break, studs pull out of heads, springs break, I've seen a pushrod shoved right through the pocket of a stock rocker arm and stuck there. Bent pushrods happen on occasion as well. If you don't look, you won't know.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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How does one crank the motor over manually, seen it done with breaker bar but did not see which bolt they used? Do I need to remove plugs to reduce compression? I read a lot about checking valve movement to test for flat cam lobe.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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breaker bar using the balancer bolt. You can just bump it with the starter with the coil unhooked if you prefer.

 

My engine is 11.5 to 1 and 393 cubic inched and I can do it with the plugs in place, but it does require some effort. Start with bumping the starter and if you feel like you can't tell then consider the breaker bar. If you have a mechanical fan, it is difficult to get room.

 

as to the heat issue, you should be able to close the valve manually. if the vacuum works, the valve could just be stuck.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Adjustable rockers or not?

 

Only time water does NOT flow through core is when temp lever is set to "Cool"

You are right about the heater control valve. I guess it is time for me to review heat and AC operation. Thanks for the correction. Chuck

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Changed to 20/50 vr1 racing oil and it is significantly quieter. I was going to go out and check the top end but I spent 3200 dollars for my car to run right and I am going to let them do it. I want them to figure out where the oil is dripping from too. The car was a clean car prior to work and he said they had a tough time with timing chain cover and it appears that is where the oil is coming from. I wil give them a shot and see what happens first. I am surprised how much better it sounds with 20/50 oil.

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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Definately sounds like something is up with the valvetrain as previously mentioned, has that loose rocker chatter sound going on. May need longer pushrods to take up the slack?

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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If you shaved the heads or the block leveled, you will need shims under the rocker pivots or the longer push rods as mentioned. The shims would equal what was taken off.

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How does one measure the proper pushrod length required to take up the gap? What is the proper measurement of gap from pushrod to rocker?

Bright lime 72 Mach 1 with 351C 4V, with summit 600 carb(have a Holley too), Edelbrock dual-plane manifold, Hooker headers, 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters, 17 inch Eleanor wheels, FMX tranny, A/C, P/S, front disks and 350 rear gear. Drive it to work every day.

 

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They make an adjustable pushrod for measuring length. Say your heads were milled .030" a pushrod .030" longer would be required to take up the slack. A stud mount rocker conversion with guide plates would have been ideal for drivetrain stability and adjustabilty. I'm suprised for the money you paid they didn't do that conversion. I would make sure you don't have any loose rocker arms first before you do anything else.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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They make an adjustable pushrod for measuring length. Say your heads were milled .030" a pushrod .030" longer would be required to take up the slack. A stud mount rocker conversion with guide plates would have been ideal for drivetrain stability and adjustabilty. I'm suprised for the money you paid they didn't do that conversion. I would make sure you don't have any loose rocker arms first before you do anything else.

 

Would the pushrod need to be longer or shorter? Seems to me that if you take material off the head the push rods would need to be shorter. Also it was mentioned that the cam was changed, if the base diameter of the lobes is different than stock then that would affect pushrod length too.

Lastly when you have an engine built you don't really know what you are getting. Today most shops are interested in volume vice quality and they tend to cut corners. I learned that the hard way, wrong bearings and pushrods lengths were installed on my motor.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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They make an adjustable pushrod for measuring length. Say your heads were milled .030" a pushrod .030" longer would be required to take up the slack. A stud mount rocker conversion with guide plates would have been ideal for drivetrain stability and adjustabilty. I'm suprised for the money you paid they didn't do that conversion. I would make sure you don't have any loose rocker arms first before you do anything else.

 

Would the pushrod need to be longer or shorter? Seems to me that if you take material off the head the push rods would need to be shorter. Also it was mentioned that the cam was changed, if the base diameter of the lobes is different than stock then that would affect pushrod length too.

Lastly when you have an engine built you don't really know what you are getting. Today most shops are interested in volume vice quality and they tend to cut corners. I learned that the hard way, wrong bearings and pushrods lengths were installed on my motor.

 

 

I'm no expert on pushrod lengths by any means, but something is definately wrong there or you have some loose rocker arms. Then again maybe I'm just ignorant lol.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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They make an adjustable pushrod for measuring length. Say your heads were milled .030" a pushrod .030" longer would be required to take up the slack. A stud mount rocker conversion with guide plates would have been ideal for drivetrain stability and adjustabilty. I'm suprised for the money you paid they didn't do that conversion. I would make sure you don't have any loose rocker arms first before you do anything else.

 

Would the pushrod need to be longer or shorter? Seems to me that if you take material off the head the push rods would need to be shorter. Also it was mentioned that the cam was changed, if the base diameter of the lobes is different than stock then that would affect pushrod length too.

Lastly when you have an engine built you don't really know what you are getting. Today most shops are interested in volume vice quality and they tend to cut corners. I learned that the hard way, wrong bearings and pushrods lengths were installed on my motor.

 

 

I'm no expert on pushrod lengths by any means, but something is definately wrong there or you have some loose rocker arms. Then again maybe I'm just ignorant lol.

 

I am no expert either that's why I ask these questions. I try to learn everything that I can on this forum. I remember a 289 that was in a new car we got and the valve train was really noisy. Turned out that they just need to set the proper lash and everything quieted down. I am thinking that this is probably the problem here.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Most definately, I have learned alot from this site and the knowledge base here. I hope he gets it figured out.

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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