Fuel delivery question regarding fuel pump

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rottenralph

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May 27, 2014
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Location
Cordova, TN
My Car
1972 Bright Lime green Mach 1. Has 351c 4v heads with Holley manifold and summit 650 cfm carb, power steering, Power disc front brakes, FMX 3 speed auto tranny, and A/C. The car sits on 17 inch Eleanor wheels with 225/45 front and 245/45 rear. Car is nice bust needs some love under the hood.
I was trying to figure out why it feels like my car is falling over when I really get on it. I was adjusting floats when I noticed the fuel coming in bursts. The fuel pump looks to be pumping in a way I would not expect. With an 8 pound pump I would expect to see continuous flw and not this. Any thoughts. Engine is awful noisy considering I have new heads, cams, lifters, and and and. Here is the video.




Second question. What the heck is this thing?


Forgot to publish. Should work now.

what the heck.jpg

 
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How does it work. My car has one temp right now, hot no matter what adjustment is set. Where does the vacuum connect under the dash.

 
Looks like I will have to lay under the dash and look around for a little while. Heat in the summer is no Bueno in Memphis.

 
Looks like I will have to lay under the dash and look around for a little while. Heat in the summer is no Bueno in Memphis.
That little vacuum valve is located behind the carton glove box, you can feel it with your hand...

Also included in previous message a PDF file for download

 
Today I adjusted the floats and I am finally close on tune. Still can't just stomp on it and go like hell. Think I have some jetting to do. Upside is the tranny seems good. All the odd shaking was the bad tune and exhaust noise.

 
There is WAY too much valve train noise if that is a hydraulic cam. When it was revved it sounded almost like a dead mis. Does it have fixed position bolt down rockers or adjustable rockers? How was the cam broken in and what oil is in the engine? You need to find out what is causing the noise.

When you call for heat vacuum is switched to the heater control valve which opens to allow hot water to circulate through the heater core.

Chuck

 
I thought the same thing on the valve train noise especially since I just spent a crap pile of money to have the heads rebuilt. New cams and lifters and it goes glickity clack all day long. Has ZPD additive from summit plus high zinc oil. I drive the car, that is my break-in. Please tell me what I am supposed to do now. Engine work has 6 month warranty.

I bought this cam and lifter set. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K5200

Fixed position rockers.

Would love to know what the proper breakin is. He told me to change oil after 1000 miles. I am at about 250. IS there anything I need to do now? It is noisy but I have no experience with clevelands and this is my first, it is a lot quieter than before and thus it seemed odd but nod alarmingly odd.

 
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I thought the same thing on the valve train noise especially since I just spent a crap pile of money to have the heads rebuilt. New cams and lifters and it goes glickity clack all day long. Has ZPD additive from summit plus high zinc oil. I drive the car, that is my break-in. Please tell me what I am supposed to do now. Engine work has 6 month warranty.

Fixed position rockers.

Would love to know what the proper breakin is. He told me to change oil after 1000 miles. I am at about 250.
Email me and I'll send you my contact information. The phone works better for me. Chuck

 
Pull the valve covers and turn the engine over by hand and check the valve train for any obvious failures Misadjustments or problems. Rocker arms break, studs pull out of heads, springs break, I've seen a pushrod shoved right through the pocket of a stock rocker arm and stuck there. Bent pushrods happen on occasion as well. If you don't look, you won't know.

 
How does one crank the motor over manually, seen it done with breaker bar but did not see which bolt they used? Do I need to remove plugs to reduce compression? I read a lot about checking valve movement to test for flat cam lobe.

 
breaker bar using the balancer bolt. You can just bump it with the starter with the coil unhooked if you prefer.

My engine is 11.5 to 1 and 393 cubic inched and I can do it with the plugs in place, but it does require some effort. Start with bumping the starter and if you feel like you can't tell then consider the breaker bar. If you have a mechanical fan, it is difficult to get room.

as to the heat issue, you should be able to close the valve manually. if the vacuum works, the valve could just be stuck.

 
Adjustable rockers or not?

Only time water does NOT flow through core is when temp lever is set to "Cool"
You are right about the heater control valve. I guess it is time for me to review heat and AC operation. Thanks for the correction. Chuck

 
Changed to 20/50 vr1 racing oil and it is significantly quieter. I was going to go out and check the top end but I spent 3200 dollars for my car to run right and I am going to let them do it. I want them to figure out where the oil is dripping from too. The car was a clean car prior to work and he said they had a tough time with timing chain cover and it appears that is where the oil is coming from. I wil give them a shot and see what happens first. I am surprised how much better it sounds with 20/50 oil.

 
Definately sounds like something is up with the valvetrain as previously mentioned, has that loose rocker chatter sound going on. May need longer pushrods to take up the slack?

 
If you shaved the heads or the block leveled, you will need shims under the rocker pivots or the longer push rods as mentioned. The shims would equal what was taken off.

 
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