Is there such a thing as a 2K paint that won't kill me?

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Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
3,240
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Location
South Florida
My Car
'71 Mustang Mach 1 M-code "Soylent Green"
'69 Plymouth Valiant 100
'68 Plymouth Satellite
Here's the deal:

I'd like to test-run my '71 M-code once I have the back end bodywork tidied up. More or less to find out what it'll do, but I'd also like to drive it from paint shop to paint shop for quotes - and this is more or less impossible without reinstalling the front and rear glass.

That said, if it weren't for the dangers of isocyanates in 2K, I'd be more than willing to rig up a redneck paint booth and do it myself - but I value my life and that of my neighbors. I hear that some 2K rattle-can primers are not isocyanate-based, but primer is not in itself a sealer.

I don't mind if the car gets painted by masking the windows (with the trim off), but I won't hear of putting the windows down without a final, sealing coat of paint sealing the window channel, seeing as it's one of the most critical areas to protect from water penetration and corrosion.

Matching the color wouldn't be an issue, as the trim would cover the separation line.

Do I have any options here? Or am I out of luck and will have to rely on a shop to do the channels at the same time as the rest of the car?

-Kurt

 
I drove my orange mustang to the paint shop with the windows out, doors in the back seat and a pair of sun glasses. Evercoat high build primer was pretty easy to use even with my small compressor. I wore a mask and suit. I gave up halfway thru because I ran out of time. I paid 1600 for the paint job and I got a good deal.

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Kurt,

The easiest & best way to accomplish what you want is to epoxy prime the channels..Then Cut in(spray color) in the channels don't worry about any overspray as a matter of fact you should come out about a inch or two past the channel. that area is going to be sanded anyway up to the edge when the body work paint is done..All that can be sprayed with a small hvlp touch up gun http://www.harborfreight.com/120cc-high-volume-low-pressure-touch-up-spray-gun-61473.html in your driveway. the amount of overspray is going to be so small that a booth isn't required nor should you worry about any health risks as long as you have the proper respirator.It can be done under your canopy.

 
Austin, I'll respond to your post later, as I'm under time pressure this morning. Trust me - I'm not ignoring you.

Kurt,

The easiest & best way to accomplish what you want is to epoxy prime the channels..Then Cut in(spray color) in the channels don't worry about any overspray as a matter of fact you should come out about a inch or two past the channel. that area is going to be sanded anyway up to the edge when the body work paint is done..All that can be sprayed with a small hvlp touch up gun http://www.harborfreight.com/120cc-high-volume-low-pressure-touch-up-spray-gun-61473.html in your driveway. the amount of overspray is going to be so small that a booth isn't required nor should you worry about any health risks as long as you have the proper respirator.It can be done under your canopy.
That's what I had in mind, Q. Already have the HVLP gun. What respirator/rating would be your recommendation for this job?

I take it you're suggesting to spray 2K with isos here. Far as I know, inhalation is not the only concern, as it can enter through the skin too - hence why I've read that a full suit is the only safe way to shoot.

Or does this apply only to booths, where atomization cannot occur?

Still, if the window channels can be shot outside, it brings up another question in my mind: Exactly why would it be harmful to paint the rest of the car outside as well? Specifically as it pertains to a human being (excluding the issues of dust, prep, and the actual finish for a moment)?

Is it the quantity of the air/paint mixture from the sprayer nozzle that determines the relative danger?

-Kurt

 
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Kurt,

here are some pictures what I painted my door jams, it was all done in my driveway, I used a Husky gravity geed HVLP gun with the Harborfreight disposable paint cups.

BTW I'm still alive :D

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I consider my car driver's quality and it's just a 71 M code with a C6 so I didn't want to dump more money into the paint than the car's worth, I dumped enough money into the mechanics and safety of it which was more important to me. First of all I didn't have any dents or rust issues but I had a failing paint job. I stripped everything I could remove and still drive the car to paint shop, bumpers, chrome, trim, mirrors, weather stripping, etc, rough sanded it and then drove to a near by shop owned and ran by some Vets. Paid extra for the sealant, three coats of quality paint and clear coats with the understanding I was going tell everyone they painted it. I didn't worry about the door jams, etc since I wasn't changing the color. They only had it for three days, I got it back and I did all the cut and buffing myself, then put everything back on. That was about two years ago the paint still looks great. I didn't have them paint the bumper or mirrors, I wanted them black.

No it isn't a 10K paint job...but for 2K I'm very happy, so it can be done for 2K if you're willing to do all the prep work and finishing and just let them spray it.

2 years after the paint job and still looking good.

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"If you end up deciding on doing a backyard shoot,or shoots, just be aware of the health and safety issues you are bringing on yourself and your neighbours in your immediate area where you live. That decision will be your resonsibility. At the end of the day, it's your call as to how you want to play it, or what you think you can get away with per say"

I've never had any complaints.... and as for what I can get away with... c'mon over, we can paint, drink beer, shoot, and blow stuff up nekid. rofl

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Greg,

My advice was for a simple touch up spray of the rear windshield channel front windshield channel..Thats it.. the amount of overspray released would be no more than if he used a spray bomb. A full respray I would agree with you except that here in the U.S. most towns cannot do not have authority on a hobbyist doing work on their own car on private property especially if it's in a garage not out in the open. I know first hand since I had a neighbor call zoning on me when I was spraying the primer on the q-code saying I was operating a body shop in a residential area I met with the zoning officer showed him my pictures videos title to the car in my name..He said it was a moot issue nothing he could do..I was considered a hobbyist on private property in a private garage pursuing my hobby. Other places may be different..It's basically no different than a homeowner with a power sprayer spraying his deck or home.

 
State, and local laws do apply and dictate what you can or cannot do in your own back yard. For example, directly behind me is an hispanic body shop that use absolutely no filter system, they paint with doors open, and city does nothing about it. But a truck shop down the street is always in trouble with EPA to the point of 1000s of dollars in filtering equipment...go figure...I agree with Q in the fact that jamming is harmless other than the neighbors new car that might get a little overspray blown on it.

 
OMG caspianwendle

Kurt,

With all due respect to Q, i disagree with the advice and feedback he has given you here. This particular topic of spraypainting in backyards or temp spraybooths at home, as adversed to using professional spraybooths was debated in a previous thread many months ago.Forgive me, but i can't get hold of that thread link right now.

If you were to attempt to spray 2Pak paint out in the open, or set up a temp booth, and the fumes would leak out of the booth, and travel around your immediate suburban area, moving or drifting on the wind or air currents, your neighbours will pick up and smell the fumes or possibly be affected by them. If they chose to report your activity to your local authority, you may well be in line to be fined or prosecuted for what you are doing. Local health and safety laws vary from state to state, and country to country. I would certainly ring your local authority and see what your rules and regs are before proceeding with that kind of activity
While your at it, call the authoritys to tell them that you plan to speed to work. (Be sure to include time, location and route so they can be there to help you)

 
Gentlemen - first, I thank you for the advice here; both those in favor of a bit of outdoor painting and those who wish to make sure that the concerns of doing so are noted.

That said, I'm strapped for time and can't reply individually to your posts until later; perhaps not until the weekend. I'll be in touch.

-Kurt

 
Want to cut to the chase? I could spray 500 gallons into the air a day in my garage, on my porch, or in a temporary booth and no one would care or catch me, HOWEVER, when I paint something that needs to be done nicely I rent out a paint booth at a local body shop for the weekend and take my project there.

Why? Control and cost. It's already purpose built and creates a workplace where I can watch my temp and humidity, already has benches for my materials, has regulated dry air, and most important I can control the dirt. Granted, I haven't painted a car for years and haven't ventured into basecoat/clear coat or some of the fantastic undercoat processes they have today. But I do paint airplane parts. Because the FAA was founded in the stone age the processes are dated and I use older processes like chromates, epoxies, polyurethanes, and butyrate dopes. However, the point is the same. I rather dump a couple hundred buck on a weekend of painting than ever have to sand, buff, and/or recoat anything. I am lucky enough to have two shops that will accommodate me and I have to work within the confines of their schedules but in the end it always pays off. Check around you might find one that will work with you.

 
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