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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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So I finally decided to start my own mod project thread. I purchased my 1971 M-code Mach 1 in September and since then I have done a lot of research, exploration disassembly, minor mods and tuning. The car runs well and is in generally great shape. This is a partial list of what I have done so far:

-Tune up: replace plugs, timing

-Carb tuning: idle, mixture, float level, fast-idle adjustment, choke adjustment. I have gone through many iterations of these adjustments.

-Eliminated some vacuum lines: I just simplified the current vacuum line system. The carb is a Holley aftermarket. Whoever installed it plugged a vacuum line into the choke vent port, which was also connected to the manifold port through bunch of tees. Based on my research the vent port should be left open and should not be connected to an external vacuum. This setup added couple extra hoses and fittings that were eliminated.

-Double Seafoam treatment: lots of smoke. Idle improved slightly. Oil pressure went up.

-All the above items improved vacuum readings from 12 to 14.

-Replaced A/C fast-idle solenoid.

-Replaced starter motor wiring: it was bare wire near the motor connection - dangerous.

-New battery.

-Replaced broken axle vent hose.

-Added custom "red neck" temp radiator overflow tank. It got tired of the constant coolant leak on my garage after a ride.

-Replaced 160 thermostat for 195 (Napa THM 297).

-Double checked axle ratio. From PO I thought it was 2.75, but it came out to 3.00, per car specs.

-Added 3-point belts in front.

-Clean, fixed and replaced miscellaneous electrical connectors.

-Added engine-to-firewall ground wire and voltage regulator-to-engine ground wire.

-Adjusted hood pin lock height.

 

Now I am getting ready for a longer more in depth modifications that I am planning over the winter. I will post my list with options soon so I can hear your comments. Even though the car runs great I want to modernize it, make it safer, and heck.... I did not buy the car to just ride it. I want to tinker with it and modify it. It will be my own version of "soft" resto-mod including 4-wheel disc brakes, improved steering, headers, ignition, modernize gauges, subframe connectors, explore the inner guts of engine and the interior floor pans. Keep tuned for the list.

 

PS: my 2 1/2 y/o son started calling the car the "MuscleTang". I love it! from now on that's the name.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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This sounds like a great project. I love when people try to do something different with these old cars. Can't wait to follow your project and what you are going to do about it. So far your ideas sounds great! Any idea what kind of parts you are going to use for brakes, steering, gauges and so?

 

And what a perfect name for the car, that must be so cool to tell your son when he grows up that he named the car "MuscleTang" when he was 2 1/2 year old.

 

Good luck with the project and please keep us posted, I'm ready to follow this :)

Daniel ::thumb::

 

Pro-Touring 1973 Mustang named ''Creator'' ... :P

Under construction!!

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This sounds like a great project. I love when people try to do something different with these old cars. Can't wait to follow your project and what you are going to do about it. So far your ideas sounds great! Any idea what kind of parts you are going to use for brakes, steering, gauges and so?

Brakes: Not 100% decided on package. Here is a thread I started in regards to the brakes, http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-disc-brake-upgrade-modernize

I may not decide completely until I tear apart the brakes and know the condition of the whole system.

Steering: probably have it rebuilt and revalved at Lee's

Gauges: will keep factory, but modernizing the tach, clock and changing modifying ampmeter to voltmeter at http://www.rccinnovations.com/

 

And what a perfect name for the car, that must be so cool to tell your son when he grows up that he named the car "MuscleTang" when he was 2 1/2 year old.

:)


 

 

In regards to my engine, here is what I know:

-Obviously a 351C-4V

-Working Ram Air package

-Holley Street Avenger 670

-Cam (per sheet from PO): Crane Cams 272H10 (http://www.cranecams.com/product/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=23839)

-Intake manifold: unknown. It says "351-4V" on the rear half, but it does not appear like the stock one. I may know more after an exploratory tear down this winter.

-All else appears pretty stock.

IMG_20140826_162847511.thumb.jpg.2ba014c4aced11a953e2fe87177f2c9c.jpg

IMG_20140826_162937372_HDR.thumb.jpg.8217b554fd2692347a776ecc9229a192.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sounds like some cool upgrades, I like the idea with keeping everything in stock look but with upgraded parts.. :) Hope to see some updates soon.. I am building a car from scratch right now and are not moving fast forward at all, damn it takes some time.. :)

Daniel ::thumb::

 

Pro-Touring 1973 Mustang named ''Creator'' ... :P

Under construction!!

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I'm in a similar boat but behind you in progress. Haha good guide lines and ideas to keep moving forward. Thanks and keep us posted

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  • 2 weeks later...

After doing a lot of research and reading a lot of threads here is my dream list of additions for the winter. I am adding links to those options I am still undecided, but budget may not allow me to go with the best option. I know there will be things that break or that I have forgotten that I will need to get later. Hopefully I will be able to limit those unforeseen issues. Please let me know if you have any comments, suggestions or experiences that you want to share about the products in my list.

 

Engine

-Carburator Kit for Street Avenger 670

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-37-935?seid=srese1&gclid=CJqQwpqdmcECFYZaMgodbFMAjg

-Oil pan gasket

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-40400/overview/make/ford

-Hooker Competition Headers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6915-3hkr/overview/year/1971/make/ford/model/mustang

-Header gasket

Aluminum?: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/php-66052/overview/make/ford

-Exhaust: 2.5" at muffler shop, undecided on mufflers

-Distributor: Pertronix III (I am aware with issues with tach, but I am also upgrading the tach)

-Coil: Pertronix Flame Thrower III

-Wires: ACCEL 5040B 8mm (I like the longer coil wire)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-5040b

-PCV valve

 

Exterior + Chassis

-Subframe connectors:

http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=58/category_id=60/mode=prod/prd58.htm

 

Interior

-Steering wheel & kit: Lecarra Mark 4

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lac-44201/overview/

-Led bulbs for instruments and interior lighting:

www.superbrightleds.com

-Dynacorn floor pans (both):

http://www.cjponyparts.com/dynacorn-full-length-floor-pan-coupe-fastback-1971-1973/p/3648N-V/

 

 

Drivetrain

-Axle 3rd member gasket: Fel Pro

-May have to change seals/bearings when installing disc brake conversion kit

 

Brakes/Suspension/Steering

-Rear brake conversion kit:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit-small-bearing-8-9-1965-1973/p/DBR21/

-Front brake upgrade:

Wilwood WIL-140-13477 from http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/wilwood.htm

-Master cylinder:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SDK-C7ZZ21404WDB

-Proportional valve:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905

-Steering rod + link kit:

part SS-08515 from http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Steering/steering-kit.htm

-Suspension arms (lower ball joint + upper arms):

Moog #CK8123: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOG-CK8123

Moog #K8142 (ball joint), http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mog-k8142 (I am keeping my arms and just replacing the ball joint)

-PU bushing kit: may not need full kit if go with new upper+lower arms

Energy supspension, http://autoplicity.com/products/17440-energy_suspension_4_18111g_hyper_flex_system_black.aspx

Shock bushings:

Upper, http://lightningmotorsports.com/whiteline/whiteline-synthetic-elastomer-bushings/w31408/i-444924.aspx

Lower, http://lightningmotorsports.com/whiteline/whiteline-synthetic-elastomer-bushings/w31409/i-444925.aspx

-Steering pump + gear: rebuild and revalving at http://lee-powersteering.com/

-Pitman arm: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P71P+01

-Steering coupler: http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=CSC311+01 or

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=SW120025+01

-Power steering hoses:

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=3-530+01

http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=3627+01

 

 

 

Electrical

-Ammeter: voltmeter conversion at RCCInnovations.com

-Tach: upgrade by RCCInnovations.com

-Headlight upgrade: Delta Halogen

http://www.cjponyparts.com/delta-halogen-h4-headlamps-with-city-lights-1964-1973/p/HLA1HC/

-Headlight relay harness:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/upd-34263/overview/

-Gas tank sending unit:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-sending-unit-exc-71-429-1971-1973/p/FSU4/

 

Notes:

-This list is a work in progress. I am adding/subtracting options as I go.

-I may consolidate vendors to save in shipping expenses, so ultimately I may purchase from different vendors than shown here.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

Dennis

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Have you thought about changing the rear axle ratio? With a 4V I think perhaps a 3.50 would really wake it up. Might be a lot if you do a lot of highway driving.

 

I love the color combination of your car, it's really sharp and looks really well done!

Matt

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Have you thought about changing the rear axle ratio? With a 4V I think perhaps a 3.50 would really wake it up. Might be a lot if you do a lot of highway driving.

 

I love the color combination of your car, it's really sharp and looks really well done!

 

Yeah, I thought about it, but not in the budget for this winter. I first want to replace all critical components to make car safe and reliable. I was thinking 3.50 sometime in the future.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Here are the results of the baseline dyno run. Done in a Mustang dyno.

You can go to the thread for more info: http://www.7173mustangs.com/showthread.php?tid=20193

 

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

uploadfromtaptalk1416576190671.thumb.jpg.99b88f1caf0afa77cadd5348581886cc.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I just figured that the Pertronix III distributor may be a bit too tall for the Ram Air filter. However, after measurements I think I can raise the filter about one more inch, but will have to eliminate the seal between the filter and Ram Air plenum. This may give me enough clearance to fit the distributor. I can eventually find a custom flat seal or similar.

I am thinking of using one of these spacers to raise the carb: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/quick-fuel-hvh-super-sucker-carburetor-spacers/thickness-in/1-000-in/carburetor-spacer-material/phenolic-plastic?N=344803%2B4294950824%2B4294949625

Based on my first measurements the Pertronix III distributor is about 2.5" taller than the stock. The distributor should fit after raising the filter, but may have some space issues with the wiring/boots.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Well, I ended up purchasing most of the items on the list this weekend taking advantage of some good offers and discounts.

My biggest unknown was with suspension items, so I opted to go with Moog's lower arm and upper ball joint. I decided to keep my upper arm and just replace the ball joint. I kind of like the idea of being able to replace the ball joint with just 3 bolts - the newer ones have the ball joint attached via rivets. I will remove the arm anyhow to check things and replace bushings.

This weekend's savings will go to purchase floor pans, which was an unexpected expense. When investigating the condition of the inside this weekend I found rusted pans. I started this thread about it:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscletang-needs-new-floor-pans-advice

I ended up purchasing the Dynacorn floor panels.

Now, let the fun begin. I have a lot of work hours ahead of me this winter.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

An update. I did not work too much in the car during the holidays, but I am back. Accomplished to date:

-I am still spending most of my time fixing the rusted floors. Today I finally got the driver's side seat riser out. It has some rust so I will be repairing it instead of buying a new one and needing to trim it. More details here: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-muscletang-needs-new-floor-pans-advice?page=6

-Also cut the rear floor panel out.

-Removed steering wheel, but won't install the new one until the floors are finished.

-Got the instrument panel down. Sending the tach, fuel, ammeter, oil and water temp gauges to Rocketman for tuning, modernizing and converting the amps to voltmeter (http://www.rccinnovations.com/)

-Got the steering pump out.

 

Next in the proximate agenda:

-Take steering gear out and send it together with the pump to Lee's for rebuild. Here I see the struggle will be dealing with the Pitman arm. I don't want to damage it specially as I disconnect it from the middle steering rod. I don't want to damage the rubber boot or bushing.

-Finish taking out driver's side floor.

-I won't deal with the passenger's side of the floor until I am not done with the driver's side.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Looking forward to seeing some pictures when you start working on it again.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Works keeps moving, but slow.

-Took out steering gear box and sent it to Lee with pump

-Took out all the steering links

-Got gauges back from RCCI.

-Ordered some led bulbs for the instruments and internal lighting from superbrightleds.com

-Still working on floor pans. Work is going real slow. It has been tricky to work on the driver's side pan, specially in the front area under the dash. It is cramped down there. I got all the spot welds out between the pan and the rocker panel, and between the firewall and panel. Even though I am replacing part of the firewall I wanted to be as neat as possible. I may leave a strip of original sheet metal at the bottom of the firewall. I could use this as additional support for the floor pan by spot welding to it. Or maybe not a good idea.... Next, I will finish cutting the firewall end and then get all the spot welds between subframe and floor.

20150201_200858_resized.thumb.jpg.984f9a55efa01ac61da024dd9e701336.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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When I did my floor pans I did the same thing and left a small strip of the firewall across the front. I overlapped that about 1 inch and spot/rosette welded it about every 1 1/2". The rest of the pan I butt welded to look a little nicer from underneath. Once the lap joint on front firewall is done and seam sealed its hard to tell its not factory to the untrained eye.

Keep up the good work.....slow work is better than NO work!!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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  • 3 months later...

I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

 

I am in the process of installing the Tin Man subframe connectors. I can't tell how far back I should install them. The instructions and video seem to talk about 4"-6" into the front subframe rail. I took this picture showing the approximate location but as you can see, it interferes with the plug on the rear subframe rail. I don't think I want to weld them there. If I move them forward then I will be over the torque box instead than over the rear subframe rail. Do you have any pictures or pointers of where yours are located?

20150507_212816_resized.thumb.jpg.1fdb19c52ac0a27704fe8159c3e8b173.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I just figured that the Pertronix III distributor may be a bit too tall for the Ram Air filter. However, after measurements I think I can raise the filter about one more inch, but will have to eliminate the seal between the filter and Ram Air plenum. This may give me enough clearance to fit the distributor. I can eventually find a custom flat seal or similar.

I am thinking of using one of these spacers to raise the carb: http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/quick-fuel-hvh-super-sucker-carburetor-spacers/thickness-in/1-000-in/carburetor-spacer-material/phenolic-plastic?N=344803%2B4294950824%2B4294949625

Based on my first measurements the Pertronix III distributor is about 2.5" taller than the stock. The distributor should fit after raising the filter, but may have some space issues with the wiring/boots.

 

I went down that route. I really wanted that dizzy/coil combo.

I did have to do some custom work to make it fit with "Don's" ram air filter base. My suggestion is to use an aftermarket filter base or change dizzy. No way around it.

 

I can send you pictures of the setup.

(car is getting the aod upgrade at the moment but should have it back in a couple of weeks.)

Image3.png

Jim

 

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  • 3 months later...

Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.


Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

 

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

 

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

 

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.

20150825_225604_edited.thumb.jpg.c618b1cbae3b2fc2c7509d1406625bf4.jpg

20150825_225838_resized.thumb.jpg.0577060b73512e5f9d749e3c96ad6e2f.jpg

20150825_222538_edited.thumb.jpg.8bd95d351c004a162f87b2f0b99f837b.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.


Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

 

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

 

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

 

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.

 

Let's talk about the two wires on the dash cluster connector (pin 7). One of the wires is a resistor wire: a single thread of nichrome wire. It's very hard to crimp a pin around a single wire strand, so Ford decided (very cleverly, in fact) to crimp another standard copper wire along with the resistor wire so that there are numerous threads that get crimped together. So where does that other wire go to? Nowhere! It isn't used for anything except strength at the crimp itself! Amazing, eh? Just leave the wire alone. If you are still uncomfortable, wrap some electrical tape around it. Ford actually buried it in the taped wire bundle.

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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Okay, so I am back working in the car. The subframe and floors on the driver's side are all welded in and just needing paint. Next is doing the passenger's side floors.


Today I spent some time working on the dash so I have a few questions:

 

1. In the radio bay, at the top on the back there are two flap looking things (see arrows in 1st picture below). What are these for? Mine are slightly bent, but, do the originals look like that?

 

2. The prong that connects to the dashboard gauges (tach, gas, speed) in pin 7 has two wires (right side of prong in 2nd picture). On mine one wire is disconnected. Where would this one go?

 

3. The 3rd picture shows the drain hose from the evaporator. My A/C is not factory. Where those this hose typically exits the car? In mine, as you can see in the picture, it exits on the right side. Note on the left side of the picture that there is a hole in the floor right under the hose, which almost looks that it should drain there. Is that hole supposed to be there? Right now is just open.

 

Let's talk about the two wires on the dash cluster connector (pin 7). One of the wires is a resistor wire: a single thread of nichrome wire. It's very hard to crimp a pin around a single wire strand, so Ford decided (very cleverly, in fact) to crimp another standard copper wire along with the resistor wire so that there are numerous threads that get crimped together. So where does that other wire go to? Nowhere! It isn't used for anything except strength at the crimp itself! Amazing, eh? Just leave the wire alone. If you are still uncomfortable, wrap some electrical tape around it. Ford actually buried it in the taped wire bundle.

 

Thank you... that's actually interesting and non-sense from Ford's part. I was scratching my head like what the heck.....

 


 

 

Here is a picture of the factory drain hole location for a/c.

ix89hMfwSNDjj8qAP7z4WQZ-zwGAkmyNrTtCxkTAjoU=w431-h293-no

Thanks for this picture. So in my case the hole that is just under the evaporator drain plug is the one that should be used. I will see if I plug the one in the right now that I am redoing the floor. However, I have another question. Does the hose go from the evaporator through this hole to where? I assume this hole exits on top of the transmission, so how far down does it go? Does anyone have pictures of the actual hose? Since the hose may be in contact with the transmission I then assume the hose has to be high temperature.

 

Edit: Actually, looking at my picture. The hole near the evaporator is more over the tunnel than yours. I guess I should weld both holes and drill a new one. Can someone give me dimensions so I can properly locate this hole?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The hose has a little 'S' shape to it and sticks out about an inch underneath. It goes through a grommet in the floor and has a metal plug with a hole in it to let the water through but keep the critters out.

 

Here is a picture I found at west coast classic cougars'

 

Thanks... I see it is available from various suppliers. I think the best is that i get one and then mark where the hole should go. I will weld the other two holes.

 

 

1971 M-code Mach 1


Any takers in regards to my question about the flap looking things in the stereo bay. They are more like plastic molded rectangles. Please see picture.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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