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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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Glad you were finally able to drive it again

I'm sticking with a carby for now but might consider EFI further down the track

Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump

My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983

From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers

There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009

A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up

P1030238.jpg
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Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump

My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983

From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers

There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009

A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up

 

The aftermarket brackets are way overpriced. I ended up using the stock bracket with a couple mods. And yes, you need spacer bushings since the distance between pulley and pump are different.

In your Falcon, can you check which Saginaw pump part number is it? Do you have pictures of the bracket?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump

My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983

From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers

There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009

A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up

 

The aftermarket brackets are way overpriced. I ended up using the stock bracket with a couple mods. And yes, you need spacer bushings since the distance between pulley and pump are different.

In your Falcon, can you check which Saginaw pump part number is it? Do you have pictures of the bracket?

 

I hear you. I went with a set up from CVF racing. It was very nice and when I purchased it was a lot cheaper than it is now. Below is a link to the kit. I paid closer to $400 and that included the pump (my pump is black though). Here is a pic when I was setting it up..

 

https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-351c-351m-400-serpentine-system-power-steering-alternator/

 

 

engine_2.jpg

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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So far I have no leaks under the car, except for one coming from the back of brake master cylinder I installed 2 years ago. It is a Scott Drake. Was this supposed to be such a piece of junk? Granted that it saw a lot of purging sessions with a lot of hard pressing, but It lasted just two years, with about 1,000 miles on it. One more item to my winter work list.

Are there any brands that you recommend? I need a master cylinder compatible with 4 discs.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Interesting you mention the Saginaw style pump

My falcon engine actually came with one and is a factory fit from the very last of the Aussie Cleveland V8s from very late 1983

From memory it uses an earlier bracket but with a bunch of spacers

There is aftermarket set ups available such as this one -https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/af64-4009

A little expensive so will be interesting to see your mod set up

 

The aftermarket brackets are way overpriced. I ended up using the stock bracket with a couple mods. And yes, you need spacer bushings since the distance between pulley and pump are different.

In your Falcon, can you check which Saginaw pump part number is it? Do you have pictures of the bracket?

Yes they are, will get some photos and post tonight. From memory most Saginaw pumps can be used but will need to change the pulley and the hose connections could be different. My pump is same as 6 cylinder Falcon from same era Kelpro part no KPP107. Bracket was earlier type with spacers. If it helps this bracket may work and is not expensive plus some Aussies put the F series Saginaw pumps on their falcon - https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Power-Steering-Pump-Bracket-V8/productinfo/12842/ - is for a Windsor so might not work?

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I'd love so much to see this beast in action.

Modern trans with this crazy power must really be fantastic.

 

Tony, you got to find a way to film it on a road and show us how this baby does!

73 modified Grande 351C. (Finally back on the road woohoo!) 

71 429CJ. ( In progress )

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I'd love so much to see this beast in action.

Modern trans with this crazy power must really be fantastic.

 

Tony, you got to find a way to film it on a road and show us how this baby does!

 

I am dealing with some distributor issues as explained in the parallel thread. Once I get my advance figured out I will drive it more. Weather has been terrible here with a lot of rain which doesn't help. I want to drive it as much as possible before the white stuff comes.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Hi Tony

Not sure if it will help but have posted photos below of Saginaw pump 84DA 3A674A and bracket set up

The bracket could be the same as for earlier C2 pump

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks. I just posted a thread explaining my Saginaw pump adventure:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-adapting-a-saginaw-pump

The bracket solution in your picture uses the same two bolts of mine, but instead of an S bracket in the rear it uses a extension plate for the third bolt in the front

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Tony,

Sounds like you have a beast for sure.

One concern I have is you said that when you ran the engine outside of the car you found some fine metal in the oil or filter. You also said you found more after engine was in the car and ran. You should never find metal in the oil or filter. If the oil galley, block crank oil holes and everything cleaned like for surgery there should be nothing in the oil. I was looking at a set of Molly coated rod bearings, shiny black, just pulled out of a Pontiac engine after running on strip for a while and not a single scratch on anything. This car turns over 165 mph in 1/4 mile so not loafing. Nothing ever in oil or filter either.

With the pistons and bearings installed how difficult was it to rotate the crankshaft? Did you prime the oil system with a drill motor before cranking over?

One year at Charlotte car show they had a contest for the NASCAR guys to assemble a 351 Cleveland. The two teams I watched I think had four to a team. The engine block was bare when they started heads were together. From start of assembly to a running engine was under 20 min. They had to do one check of oil clearance with plastic. You could for sure tell they had done it before.

If metal keeps showing up I believe I would pull the pan and look at bearings. Can you tell if it is bearing material or maybe casting from cam or lifters?

Want to see your timing tickets soon.

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Tony,

Sounds like you have a beast for sure.

One concern I have is you said that when you ran the engine outside of the car you found some fine metal in the oil or filter. You also said you found more after engine was in the car and ran. You should never find metal in the oil or filter. If the oil galley, block crank oil holes and everything cleaned like for surgery there should be nothing in the oil. I was looking at a set of Molly coated rod bearings, shiny black, just pulled out of a Pontiac engine after running on strip for a while and not a single scratch on anything. This car turns over 165 mph in 1/4 mile so not loafing. Nothing ever in oil or filter either.

With the pistons and bearings installed how difficult was it to rotate the crankshaft? Did you prime the oil system with a drill motor before cranking over?

One year at Charlotte car show they had a contest for the NASCAR guys to assemble a 351 Cleveland. The two teams I watched I think had four to a team. The engine block was bare when they started heads were together. From start of assembly to a running engine was under 20 min. They had to do one check of oil clearance with plastic. You could for sure tell they had done it before.

If metal keeps showing up I believe I would pull the pan and look at bearings. Can you tell if it is bearing material or maybe casting from cam or lifters?

Want to see your timing tickets soon.

David, I will report after the next oil change. Most of the metal were fine particles that basically made the oil look like metallic paint, if that makes sense. I can't tell where they could be from. The few particles that had a size that allowed me to "feel" them did not look consistent with bearing material. I thought that fine metal particles was normal for a new engine. I primed the engine multiple times before starting outside the car and before starting in the car. I even checked couple of the cylinders with a borescope and all looks good. I pulled the distributor yesterday while dealing with the advance issue I had and the gear looks in good shape.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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You could also get an oil analysis done which will determine what metal particles are in the oil. For example if copper or nickel show up that could indicate bearings depending on their material composition. Not usually an expensive test where I'm from.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The car is out for the year until next spring. I have an issue with the rear axle that for some reason I underfilled of oil. I underfilled by 0.6 qt. to be exact. I know I filled it until oil came out from the hole, but when I checked after the insane bearing noise I realized it was underfilled. There was no evidence of leaks or puddles so I can only assume I underfilled it :shootself: . Most likely the pinion bearing is history. 

In any case, I was planing on replacing the center section with 3.50 gears, a Truetrac adn 31-spline shaft this winter. So there is not much lost except a few weeks of cold weather driving.

I want to do couple mods to where the clutch cable attaches to the clutch lever so I can gain a little bit more of travel. I will then test the clutch in my driveway before putting the car away for good.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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So the project list for this winter is:

-Center section and shaft replacement.

-Throttle linkage review.

-New distributor and recurve.

-Investigate adding a driveshaft loop.

-Fabricate an adapter to relocate the shifter lever. Right now it sits forward about 1"-2" so I will fabricate an adapter to move the lever back slightly. I want it to be center in the hole. A plate with four holes should be enough.

 

Based on this list I am hoping to drive the car early next Spring as soon as the snow is gone and the salt is cleared off the road. The list is more doable than last winter's list. Last winter list ended up taking a whole year. At least I am happy I was able to drive the car 80 miles so I can work in the fine tuning over the winter.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I never posted a picture of the engine in the car. So here is how it looks w/o the air filter. Also absent is the wiper fluid reservoir. Something else I need to take care is to seal the gaps between the radiator and shroud on the sides (not seen in picture), and the gap between the radiator and support.

 

 

 

20181024-225111.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Anyone has a good idea on how to cover the gap between the engine and A/C radiators. I also have a gap between the fan shroud and radiator on the vertical edge on the driver's side. My thought is to get a sheet of plastic/rubber and cut it to fit. However, I am afraid it may not look too good.

 

Also, another question. As you see this picture of my engine bay, do you think the coil would look better in black, Ford blue or another color besides red?

 

20181024-225111-mod.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Tony,

 

Cars with A/C originally came from the factory with a plastic piece that clipped on the radiator to fill that gap. They are now reproduced and many of the vendors sell them. See pic below from my 72 Q code.

 

 

IMG-3212.jpg

Jeff

1972 Q Code Convertible

 

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Tony,

 

Cars with A/C originally came from the factory with a plastic piece that clipped on the radiator to fill that gap. They are now reproduced and many of the vendors sell them. See pic below from my 72 Q code.

 

 

IMG-3212.jpg

 

What is that piece call? or can you send me a link?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 2 months later...

MIG welder not working!

 

I have not been keeping up with my thread updates but I can tell you that I have been working in the car slowly. I will update at a later time with details.

Edit: ignore post. I went back to the garage after a break and figured out that it was a weak feeder tensioner.... rrrr!

 

In any case, my post today is to complain that my Eastwood mig welder is not working. I used it last about a month ago to weld the snowblower's auger and it worked well. Trust me, the snowblower has seen a lot of use!

Today I am all setup to box the rear spring perches until I tried welding. The machine turns on, the fan is on, the wire feeder works, and the gas is exiting. However, the power is like dead. It sparks for an instant, enough to melt a little, but then the spark dies. All this while the feeder is still pushing. That said, it seems like an issue with spark energy. I tested the resistance to the wire and to the ground clamp and it looks good. I tried all kinds of settings (including higher voltage), I tried on a simple and clean piece of steel where the clamp was next to the test spot and the same issue occurred. Any clues?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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