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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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Making a small neat coil of excess wire can have unintended consequences, especially when it is next to steel or iron. Having several individual insulated strands of wire in the cable, whether the cable is shielded or not, adds to the unknown consequences. The coil of cable forms what is called an inductor (also called a choke). Inductors are used to smooth out electrical waveforms in a circuit, and can completely block audio signals, as well as other frequencies. The RFI filter you added to it is also a type of inductor, so if your stereo seems to lack bass or high frequencies you might want to try removing it, see if it helps or not.

 

In regards to the RFI filter and loss of bass, since the filter is in the USB cable which is passing a digital signal, it shouldn't affect sound quality, right?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Where do I start? I just realized that I have not updated my build thread in almost a year. However, I have done a lot of stuff. I have posted here and there but today I decided that I needed to updat

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That's a good point, and you're correct, it shouldn't.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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  • 1 month later...

Installed this back up camera:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M260I3Z/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: the link is not working anymore. The camera is an AUTOVOX T1400W

 

Good overall and easy installation. Did not have to drill a hole or cut any wires. The only issue is that the mirror vibrates more than I would prefer. I am working on trying to improve this issue.

Some may not like the look of the double mirror, but you can't really notice unless you look from the side. Most people won't even notice.

 

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Update on this Backup Camera. Since the backup camera mirror attaches to the current mirror it increases the weight by a good amount, which results in vibration and the mirror button coming off the windshield. I tried gluing the button with all kind of different products with no success. After the fourth time I decided it was time to move on :shootself: . Now I am trying the same Auto-Vox camera but with its own mirror that glues to the windshield. It is the upgrade of the one I had installed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J863EI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was able to use the camera and wires already installed. I just replaced the transmitter with the new one and all is working well. Since it is lighter let's see if it will stay attached to the windshield and hopefully reduce the vibrations. 

I don't want to give up the idea of having the backup camera in the rearview mirror. I think it is practical and I have been using it all the time.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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So the project these past two weeks was to improve audio. I have a Retrosound Hermosa player, with a Retrosound dashpad speaker and 6x9 Kicker speakers in the back. The Kickers are great speakers but because I have a fold down rear seat I am using portable enclosures that are not that large, which doesn't take advantage of the Kicker's bass potential. The dashpad speaker is 4x6 and with zero bass. The sound in the front is terrible and to take advantage of the rears I have to raise the volume way too much to my like. I realized that I needed to add a subwoofer in the front. Didn't want to crowd the behind rear seat area much more than the two current speaker enclosures. I found that the only space I could see open in the front to fit a sub was on the passenger side's kick panel, tucked behind the kick panel and the vent box. The space is small and after searching through many options and sizes I decided on the Kenwood KSC-SW11. This is an enclosed self powered 5x8 sub. I was not expecting to have a huge boooom coming out of it, but just some good bass to fill what's lacking from the dashpad speakers. I didn't want to add door speakers either. It was a tight cramped fit, but it went well. The only mod was to customize the supplied mounting plate and drilling two holes for screws and one hole to get the wiring to the battery. The sub is well hidden. It am very impressed with the sound and power. I am using it with the sub volume at about 25-35% and fills the missing bass perfectly. I am very happy with the investment and fit.

 

Before putting on the panel:

20190611-232037.jpg

 

 

After the panel:

Inked20190611-232857-LI.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

I closed the vertical gaps between shroud and radiator with an ACDelco radiator seal, p/n 13269462. I had to cut it to fit and use some ingenuity to fasten it, but now the gap is mostly gone.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 5 months later...

Long time no post, but I am still busy completing projects in the Mustang.

What I have worked on in the last few months:

-A/C

-Troubleshooting fluctuation at idle with the EFI. I checked for vacuum leaks, distributor, CDI, butterfly adjustments, shielding wires, and exhaust leaks. I found a small gap between the oxygen sensor bong and pipe that may be the culprit. I will weld this gap now that I have the pipes down.

-Installing a new set of rear disc brakes from Wilwood, p/n 140-11403. I will report on this on a separate post once completed.

-Custom drive axle loop.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sounds like a good list of work. Glad to see you updating the post, always like to check your build out. Keep us posted.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Last night I completed my custom driveshaft safety loop. I based my idea on Tinman's one (https://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=122/category_id=60/mode=prod/prd122.htm).

The crossmember is made out of a 2x1 square tube, 1/8" thick. The end flanges are out of a 2" x 3/16 plate. The loop is BMR: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-dsl012h

 

It took a lot of measurements, cutting, drilling and welding. The hardest part was drilling the bolt holes through the subframe due to spacing being limited with the exhaust pipes right along the side. I decided to bolt the loop rather than weld just in case it has to be removed in the future. Even though I was using 7/16" bolts through the subframe I had to drill 1/2" holes to allow for alignment. Due to the limited spacing, it was a challenge to align the holes on each side of the subframe's square tube. I know it is not perfectly aligned but satisfactory. Besides the added safety, the loop should add some strength to the Unibody. The BMR loop was too tall for my taste so I ended up welding a 2" plate across the top at a position just below where the rear u-joint of the driveshaft would hit the tunnel. 

 

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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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That's one tough and good looking driveshaft safety cage - well done  :bravo:

Tim

 

Never drive faster than your guardian angel can fly :angel:

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Wow , very nice Tony, that's some serious safely loop!

I'm planning to add one on both my cars, either a 5mm cable or similar shape as yours hanged from above.

I wonder how broken yoke/driveshaft (under normal operation and no hit/accidents ) are usually looking like.

My little brain assumes the main goal is to prevent the shaft to become a lever and keep it relatively on its place while you come to a stop.

Now that I see this, I wonder if I'm wrong to assume this and that it should be much stronger...

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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Wow , very nice Tony, that's some serious safely loop!

I'm planning to add one on both my cars, either a 5mm cable or similar shape as yours hanged from above.

I wonder how broken yoke/driveshaft (under normal operation and no hit/accidents ) are usually looking like.

My little brain assumes the main goal is to prevent the shaft to become a lever and keep it relatively on its place while you come to a stop.

Now that I see this, I wonder if I'm wrong to assume this and that it should be much stronger...

Fabrice,

 

You are preventing the car to use the broken drive shaft as a vault, you are also insuring your precious investment, and you are reinforcing the unibody, at least with my approach of connecting between subframe connectors. I am assuming that when the u-joints breaks they could cause a lot of damage to your car.

 

This is from the NHRA rules:

DRIVESHAFT LOOP DEFINITION: 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4-inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide, or 7/8-inch x .065-inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted to the frame or frame structure where available (or to the OEM floor or rocker box where a frame does not exist) and located within 6 inches of the front or rear universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of U-joint failure.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I snapped a front u joint and even with a safety loop it did lots of damage to the floor pans and bent the loop up. Damn glad I had it, Now I have a sturdier one.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xPysRTtm3Cc8GfkH9

 

 

This was a 1st attempt, but the final was produced out of stainless steel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HQWfd9gp9pcoqZ896

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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I snapped a front u joint and even with a safety loop it did lots of damage to the floor pans and bent the loop up.  Damn glad I had it,  Now I have a sturdier one.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xPysRTtm3Cc8GfkH9

 

 

This was a 1st attempt, but the final was produced out of stainless steel.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HQWfd9gp9pcoqZ896

Thank you for sharing the picture. I have seen that type of "flat" loop all over and I have not been convinced about its design. Your picture proves my concern. It is a flat plate that has very little stiffness to up/down bending. That's why I decided to go with a square tube. Your round tube solution is also much stronger than the flat plate. However, the loop served its purpose and probably saved you from a lot more damage or injury.

 

Did that happen with slicks? Were the u-joints 1310, 1330 or 1350? I now have 1350s and those are much more beefier than the original 1310s.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Nice one too @Jeff73Mach1

 

When you say "I snapped a front u joint", did you not get any vibs before that? noises?

Bet you've experienced some intense moment when that took place!

 

Looking at some picts of shaft failures on gg atm... not pretty indeed.

I was planning to add one but got the message: needs to be much stronger than I thought!

73 modified Grande 351C. Almost done. 

71 429CJ. In progress

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Great job on the tailshaft loop

Makes me want to rethink the safety loop I have which is just an aftermarket bolt on loop

Definitely better than nothing but possibly not strong enough in some situations

Another project for a rainy day which for me is a long way away

P1030238.jpg
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No I sheared it on a 1-2 shift and it just blew. I was on slicks and concrete when it happened and was on the factroy U joints before I upgraded everything to 1350 and chrome moly yoke and slip yoke.

 

There was lots of damage, from twisted splines at the slip yoke to torn mounts on the rear axle. I hope no one here gets to experience this firsthand.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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The new rear brake discs from Wilwood are in. I installed the 140-11403 kit to substitute the Right Stuff kit I had. The old kit uses GM calipers that were used in Cadillacs and are widely used for rear disc conversions. The problem I had with them is that the caliper cylinder was too big compared to my front Wilwoods. In theory that was creating issues with balancing from front to rear. I was able to lock the rear tires but not the fronts. I will have to wait until spring to test if the rear Wilwood brakes would make my system work better.

The only issue I had when installing the Wilwood kit is that I had a gap between the bearing retainer and bearing that required searching for a shim (which took a lot of time). You can read all about in here: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-issue-with-bearing-retainer-of-wilwood-140-11403-brake-kit-with-drum-e-brake

 

BTW, I will post the Right Stuff kit for sale soon. They should work well if you have OEM front disc brakes because these also have a large caliper cylinder area.

https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/zdcrd02

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 10 months later...

Where do I start? I just realized that I have not updated my build thread in almost a year. However, I have done a lot of stuff. I have posted here and there but today I decided that I needed to update this thread to have all the information in one place. So here are the major projects I have worked on this year:

 

For this winter my projects include:

  • Add a new Classic Air A/C system.
  • Upgrade my front suspension with a Meier MOD1.
  • Customize a shock tower cross brace.

 

 

Edited by tony-muscle
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20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I look forward to watching the progress. 

[align=left]Jeff T.

 

When I die I want to die like grandpa, peacefully in my sleep... not screaming, like his passengers. [/align]

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