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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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I believe they are just wiring harness guards. They were not present in my car

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I keep seeing these wires at the rear of my engine by the transmission and two of these connectors are open. There is nothing connected. One is green and one is black. Any ideas what these are for? See pictures. As a reference the picture is taken from under the car and you can see the transmission's kickdown.

These cars have so many open connectors that sometimes I don't know if they are meant that way or if I have something missing.

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1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

Did a compression test today. I performed the test with the engine cold and with the carb's butterfly closed. Now that I come up to the computer I am reading the test should be done with the engine warm and butterfly open. I don't know what the difference would be. Well, in any case, I got 140 psi in all cylinders except one at 135 and another at 145 psi. Compression level reached within 5 strokes.


I also spent sometime under the car checking the engine casting numbers. It took me about an hour until I decided to loosen the starter. Once I moved the starter s little I was able to see the last number.

The casting # is: D0AE-L

And the date code, which I had already reported is: 0L17 (Nov.17, 1970)

So even though the block's s/n does not seem to match, at least the block casting matches my "M" code from December 1970.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 4 months later...

I am on the last stretch of replacing the floor pans. More details to come soon in my floor thread.

 

However, I have a few question regarding gaps around windows and tail sheetmetal. I am posting pictures since it is easier to see than explain. My main question is if these gaps are from factory or indicate that some work was done to the car. What can I do to fix the gaps around the windows? Do you caulk it :) I may even have some surface rust at the bottom of the window channel. I guess I don't want too much of a gap here so to avoid water sitting in there.

 

Pictures:

1. Tail, by trunk

2. Windshield (upper corner_

3. Quarter panel window

4. Rear window (upper corner)

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20160218_002131_resized.thumb.jpg.0779a3cf4caf6cbe3af1f5546620928b.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The first pic by the tail looks like there may have been some mud work in there??

 

The rest of the pics look just like my car. I have a few gaps around those areas too...... not sure if they are suppose to be there but just wanted to let you know you are not alone! ;)

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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The first pic by the tail looks like there may have been some mud work in there??

 

The rest of the pics look just like my car. I have a few gaps around those areas too...... not sure if they are suppose to be there but just wanted to let you know you are not alone! ;)

 

My concern is that water will eventually sit on those gaps by the windows and create problems. I wonder if there is anything that can be done that does not involve taking the glass out. That's why I jokingly said caulking :)

In regards to the tail, I agree there is a bit of mud where the trunk meets the fender. But, do you have that gap between the sheetmetal of the tail and trunk? Interestingly, the gap and finish looks the same and symmetrical on both sides so that makes me think that it is factory, but I would like to know that for sure.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I haven't heard feedback in regards to the rear quarter panel gap in the first picture of the previous post (post #29). After searching and searching I think I figured out the right terminology. I am talking about the gap between the rear quarter panel and its extender. I went over hundreds of pictures and I found one that had similar gaps, so I am assuming that this gap is "normal," but can anyone please confirm?

Also, if anyone has feedback in regards to what to do with the gap/channel around the windows, or just leave it like it is.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The gaps are normal and water gets in there and will eventually rust out.

 

Ask me how I know.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The gaps are normal and water gets in there and will eventually rust out.

 

Ask me how I know.

 

Paul

 

Thank you for the clarification. Although I don't like the idea that it will eventually rust out. However, I am not planing on driving the car when is rainy out since these cars have too many water friendly places :) I know though that at some point I will be caught off guard in a downpour or when I wash the car water will be trapped in all those wonderful places.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

I am finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel of my floor pan endeavor. More details in my floor pan thread. I am done welding and grinding all the panels. Now I am in the cleaning stage to prime the interior. Last night I removed the tarps that have covered the interior for about year and half. It was a strange feeling. Now I am looking at this through a more experienced set of eyes.

 

I need your help with a few pictures I took of some suspicious places. The more I dig into the inside of the car the more I see repairs or attempts to fix probably past issues. Also signs of modifications. Since I don't know how some of these regions looked like new I need your help.

1,2 - the first two pictures are the brackets for the fold down seats. Based on the bad looking welding done there I assume these were added at a later time. Can you share any pictures of how these should look OEM?

3,4- these pictures are by the rear window, by the C-pillar. The circled panel looks like torch cut. The other side looks exactly the same. Is this stock or an indication of some type of work done there? Can anyone share a picture of how it should look?

 

Anything else "strange" that stands out? Thank you.

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20160308_002632_resized-mod.thumb.jpg.e1762c3a18e5a95d3aeffc1c5a8459ed.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Bump.....Anyone please

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I keep seeing these wires at the rear of my engine by the transmission and two of these connectors are open. There is nothing connected. One is green and one is black. Any ideas what these are for? See pictures. As a reference the picture is taken from under the car and you can see the transmission's kickdown.

These cars have so many open connectors that sometimes I don't know if they are meant that way or if I have something missing.

Sorry for the late response. The green female bullet is emissions/carb related. The black female bullet is for the PRNDL shifter lamp.

Let me check your shorts!

http://midlifeharness.com

cactus.jpg.92e5d9d8700abc0ed60c8ccb3426248e.jpg

 

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Bump.....Anyone please

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

The bracket edge welds look stock sloppy but thats how they tacked the edges.

 

The quarter inner structure cuts are also stock again sloppy but thats how mine are and I know no work was done there. So no worries your looking at how it came from the factory.

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Bump.....Anyone please

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

The bracket edge welds look stock sloppy but thats how they tacked the edges.

 

The quarter inner structure cuts are also stock again sloppy but thats how mine are and I know no work was done there. So no worries your looking at how it came from the factory.

 

+1 Yep what Q said!

Now get it buttoned up and enjoy it this summer!!!!! GREAT work!! ::thumb::::thumb::

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Bump.....Anyone please

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

The bracket edge welds look stock sloppy but thats how they tacked the edges.

 

The quarter inner structure cuts are also stock again sloppy but thats how mine are and I know no work was done there. So no worries your looking at how it came from the factory.

 

+1 Yep what Q said!

Now get it buttoned up and enjoy it this summer!!!!! GREAT work!! ::thumb::::thumb::

Thank you fuys. Thats encouraging. It tells me I shouldn't worry too much about perfect welds when the factory welds were so sloppy.

I found a little of rust up by the edge of the inner quarter by the rear side window. I will fix this and should be priming this weekend. Those edges also appear sloppy.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 months later...

I have been very quiet with updating my work. The floors are done, the seat platforms are in, the instrument panel has new led lighting, new retrosound stereo and dash speaker, installed converted tach and ammeter, currently installing the dynamat insulation. Still need to do the carpeting but will do that once I hit a snag with my other projects. Also installed the Lee modified steering motor and pump, new steering hoses, changed oil pan gasket, plus oil and fuel pumps while I was down there and adapted a new mini starter.

My next job are new discs on front and disc adaptation in rear. While doing this i will replace the perches, all bearings and complete new steering arms and rods.

I may be forgetting some stuff but this is a good summary of the last two months.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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This week I also started the engine after 18 months. I installed the Hooker headers and this is the sound with open exhaust.

The sound alone is enough motivation to finish soon and very exciting!. I think that I have one more month of work before hitting the road.

My Movie.wmv

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sounds great, man! I noticed you're running a carb...are you still considering the FI Tech throttle body system?

Yes, I actually already bought the Fitech and should arrive at the end of the month. For now I am focused on getting the car to a driveable condition. Then I will install the EFI, so probably towards the end of summer.

 

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sweet, looking forward to reading about the install. What route did you go with on the fuel pump? I've read the remote canister (can't recall the name) has given a lot of problems....may have even been you that posted the link to the corvette forum.

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Sweet, looking forward to reading about the install. What route did you go with on the fuel pump? I've read the remote canister (can't recall the name) has given a lot of problems....may have even been you that posted the link to the corvette forum.

I decided to go the fuel command route. I read some few people having problems but didnt seem to be a systematic issue. Now that you mentioned it, I will review that thread which I haven't in a while.

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Looking fwd to how that FiTech system works for you. I have heard a lot of good reports about that system.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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I kept running the motor over the weekend so I can enjoy the sound. I understand that it is too loud and it would become annoying when cruising. That's making me think of installing electric cutoffs. That way whenever I feel like hearing the open exhaust I just need to flip a switch. Anyone has experience with the electric cutoffs? I am wondering how reliable the seal is once you close them.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I really like mine! They are something cool to play with when you're heading into or out of a show. I got mine from Badlandz. They seem to seal very well. I don't notice any leaks or anything like that when the car is running. I just had my car on the lift yesterday while it was running and checked them and they were sealed very well. The only trouble I did have with mine was the remote control receiver burned up. You can run the cutouts from a rocker switch too so it wasn't that big of a deal. All the badlandz stuff had a 5 year warranty. I sent the receiver back and they sent me a new one free. I like being able to run the cutouts remotely with the key fob. I can be standing 20' away from my car idling and hit the button on the key fob and they open right up. Sounds bad ass. Heres 2 pics from yesterday. Mine have been on for 2-3 years now.

fonfyg.jpg

se0goo.jpg

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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