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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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I really like mine! They are something cool to play with when you're heading into or out of a show. I got mine from Badlandz. They seem to seal very well. I don't notice any leaks or anything like that when the car is running. I just had my car on the lift yesterday while it was running and checked them and they were sealed very well. The only trouble I did have with mine was the remote control receiver burned up. You can run the cutouts from a rocker switch too so it wasn't that big of a deal. All the badlandz stuff had a 5 year warranty. I sent the receiver back and they sent me a new one free. I like being able to run the cutouts remotely with the key fob. I can be standing 20' away from my car idling and hit the button on the key fob and they open right up. Sounds bad ass. Heres 2 pics from yesterday. Mine have been on for 2-3 years now.

 

 

Awesome!! I definitely want those!!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I really like mine! They are something cool to play with when you're heading into or out of a show. I got mine from Badlandz. They seem to seal very well. I don't notice any leaks or anything like that when the car is running. I just had my car on the lift yesterday while it was running and checked them and they were sealed very well. The only trouble I did have with mine was the remote control receiver burned up. You can run the cutouts from a rocker switch too so it wasn't that big of a deal. All the badlandz stuff had a 5 year warranty. I sent the receiver back and they sent me a new one free. I like being able to run the cutouts remotely with the key fob. I can be standing 20' away from my car idling and hit the button on the key fob and they open right up. Sounds bad ass. Heres 2 pics from yesterday. Mine have been on for 2-3 years now.

 

 

Awesome!! I definitely want those!!

Heres a link to his website.... http://www.badlanzhpe.com/

Hes a really good guy and stands behind his products. You can also get them on ebay from him.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Turtle,

 

What are those 2 U shaped bars wrapped around your engine mount cross member? I've never seen those before.

 

Tony, don't mean to hijack your thread.

 

BT

 

 

EDIT: Never mind, I just read your flexplate thread LOL Someone else asked the same question.

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Turtle,

 

What are those 2 U shaped bars wrapped around your engine mount cross member? I've never seen those before.

 

Tony, don't mean to hijack your thread.

 

BT

 

 

EDIT: Never mind, I just read your flexplate thread LOL Someone else asked the same question.

Okay, now I am curious. I didn't notice the U bolts. Can you post the link to the flexplate thread you mention?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Turtle,

 

What are those 2 U shaped bars wrapped around your engine mount cross member? I've never seen those before.

 

Tony, don't mean to hijack your thread.

 

BT

 

 

EDIT: Never mind, I just read your flexplate thread LOL Someone else asked the same question.

Okay, now I am curious. I didn't notice the U bolts. Can you post the link to the flexplate thread you mention?

 

Here's the link: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-anyone-ever-break-a-flexplate-its-running

 

The same question is asked in post #23.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Since I have not posted in a while it may have seem that I am not working in my car. On the contrary, I have been working hard about 3-4 nights a week. I have a lot of open projects and non is complete due to unforeseen problems so I will post as they get finished.

 

Right not I am working on the rear brake conversion, front brake Wilwood discs, replacing brake lines, new brake cylinder, suspension and steering. The rear brake conversion led me to discover axles with excessive runout so I am working on used axles with Don. For the front brakes I needed to modify the spindles slightly so that's done. One task that I finished was replacing the differential carrier (or pumpkin) gasket. It was "fun" doing it myself with the garage jack. I moved the jack's lever with my leg while holding the carrier which seems to weigh 600 pounds when you are under it.

 

I am also working in rebuilding the stock brake distribution valve and adapting a rear brake adjustable proportioning valve so I can fine tune. The rebuild kit is in its way so I will hopefully complete the distribution valve by this weekend. For adapting the adjustable valve for the rear brakes I have been trying to find a fitting to go from the valve's 1/8" NPT to the 7/16-24 flare male that is in the distribution block but I can't find any. I wanted to fit it solid to the distribution block but I may have to go though a small section of brake tubing.

 

Last night I replaced the front brake lines. I was able to fit the front line that goes from the distribution block to the passenger's side brake with the motor in place. This was a task of patience. At first I thought it was not possible but it is doable. I only had to remove the speedometer cable and the vacuum reservoir. I already had the brake cylinder removed. The line had to be bent slightly to fit, but nothing major that would cause any damage. The trick was to start feeding the line from the driver's side and go slowly from there. I did not remove the old one until I had the new one in place just to be sure. That made removing the old one a more difficult task. The most difficult line brackets to remove were the two on the passenger side. One is right below the fuel vapor canister that is a PITA to get to. I guess I could have removed that canister, but I managed without.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sounds like your making great progress Tony. I especially love the dumps. Looking forward to more.

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I really like mine! They are something cool to play with when you're heading into or out of a show. I got mine from Badlandz. They seem to seal very well. I don't notice any leaks or anything like that when the car is running. I just had my car on the lift yesterday while it was running and checked them and they were sealed very well. The only trouble I did have with mine was the remote control receiver burned up. You can run the cutouts from a rocker switch too so it wasn't that big of a deal. All the badlandz stuff had a 5 year warranty. I sent the receiver back and they sent me a new one free. I like being able to run the cutouts remotely with the key fob. I can be standing 20' away from my car idling and hit the button on the key fob and they open right up. Sounds bad ass. Heres 2 pics from yesterday. Mine have been on for 2-3 years now.

 

 

Awesome!! I definitely want those!!

Heres a link to his website.... http://www.badlanzhpe.com/

Hes a really good guy and stands behind his products. You can also get them on ebay from him.

 

Kevin,

I just got the cutouts per your suggestion. So technically, you could open the butterfly as much or as little as you want, right? Have you tried to "control" the exhaust volume by partially opening the valve? I am wondering if that would work. I also bought the Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. I am thinking that these are in the quiet side, but since I can open my exhaust by pushing a button, I figure I don't need to worry about it being too quiet.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Awesome!! I definitely want those!!

Heres a link to his website.... http://www.badlanzhpe.com/

Hes a really good guy and stands behind his products. You can also get them on ebay from him.

 

Kevin,

I just got the cutouts per your suggestion. So technically, you could open the butterfly as much or as little as you want, right? Have you tried to "control" the exhaust volume by partially opening the valve? I am wondering if that would work. I also bought the Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers. I am thinking that these are in the quiet side, but since I can open my exhaust by pushing a button, I figure I don't need to worry about it being too quiet.

 

Yes you can open them just a crack, half way, wide open, whatever you want. 99% of the time I open them all the way... just sounds better in my opinion. If your using the supplied rocker switch, you just hold the switch down until you get the sound you want. you will hear the gear motors when they get wide open and you can let off. If you bought the wireless key fob, like I did, you can bump the button once and they will open all the way. If you bump the button again as they are opening they will stop. Bump again and they will open a little more ect ect.

They are one of the funnest upgrades I have made to the car. Its really cool to open them up pulling into a show and see people stare at close to 600hp rumbling in with open headers.

My muffler are magnaflows and are very quiet in my opinion. But I really like them, nice rumble and good sound when on the throttle. But when cruising down the highway you can actually have a conversation with the person sitting beside you.

Don't worry your going to love them.... tons o fun!! Keep us posted on the install. Keep them as high and tight as possible because they do take up some ground clearance. Good luck

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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I wanted to write more details about adapting the mini-starter (PMGR). This was a very easy and straight forward replacement. I used DB Electrical's SFD0001,sold for $38.60. This was a bolt on to the engine. I have a C6 automatic transmission. If you have manual you may need another part number. It comes with the wiring and instructions that you need. The connection is very simple. Inmediately I could feel the engine crancked a lot better. Being a more efficient design with reduction gears I guess that it consumes less power as well. Not only is more efficient, but it is also much lighter and smaller. I get a nice gap between the starter and headers, and enough space to access the bolts. This is an easy/cheap upgrade that I highly recommend.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I wanted to write more details about adapting the mini-starter (PMGR). This was a very easy and straight forward replacement. I used DB Electrical's SFD0001,sold for $38.60. This was a bolt on to the engine. I have a C6 automatic transmission. If you have manual you may need another part number. It comes with the wiring and instructions that you need. The connection is very simple. Inmediately I could feel the engine crancked a lot better. Being a more efficient design with reduction gears I guess that it consumes less power as well. Not only is more efficient, but it is also much lighter and smaller. I get a nice gap between the starter and headers, and enough space to access the bolts. This is an easy/cheap upgrade that I highly recommend.

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9936-ford-mini-pmgr-racing-starter-302-351-higher-torque-3205-sfd0001.aspx

 

I did this upgrade as well when I swapped out for the T5 at the suggestion of another member on here. Very easy to do and well worth it!

73 Grande H Code. Headman long tube headers, T-5 Transmission, 3.70 Traclok, Lowered 1" all around, Aussie 2v heads w/ 2.19 intake, 1.71 exhaust, screw in studs, full roller cam 608/612 lift 280/281 duration LSA 112, Quick Fuel 750 CFM double pumper, AirGap intake.

 

- Jason

 

 

082-hot-rod-power-tour-2017-1970-1970s.jpg

 

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Last night I was finalizing the installation of the rear disk brakes. These kit is from The Right Stuff. Even though I got their "staggered" shock kit, it is not needed. The non-stagger brake calipers fit perfectly since the shocks are on the inner side of the leaf springs. The staggered kit basically has you placing one caliper forward and another backwards. It's a long story, but I ended up purchasing a standard left side caliper so it can be facing backwards. This makes life a lot easier to route the brake line and e-brake cable. I was able to fit the stock e-brake cable with a few simple adaptations.

 

In any case, the calipers in the kit, I found out, are the 79 Cadillac ElDorado calipers. These are very popular for conversions since they have a manual e-brake lever that's easy to adapt. Once I installed the caliper I had a little bit of interference with the wheel. Actually, it will touch the wheel only where the welds of the rim overlap. I then ground some material off the caliper. I thought this was safe since there are no fluid channels on that side of the caliper and the amount of material was very little (see pictures for before and after). I was also able to move the caliper about 1/16" to the inside, which helps with clearance. So right now I have no interference. That brings me to my first question, does anyone knows what is an acceptable clearance between caliper and wheel?

 

My second question is about the proper engagement of the wheel nut. The discs are slightly wider than the drums so it reduces the amount of thread engagement. I read somewhere that proper engagement should be the diameter of the stud. The studs are 1/2-20. I now get 9+ turns of engagement, which is slightly below the 10 turns needed to have a 1/2" engagement. Do you think that 9+ turns is an acceptable amount of engagement?

20160717_215537.thumb.jpg.fbaf675c3168cd5807674fff059175fb.jpg

20160717_221850.thumb.jpg.cbb3a449c99f88b66e6b9b15b78e029f.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question but those brakes look really nice.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Wow that is so awesome stuff your getting on there[WINKING FACE][THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

 

Sendt fra min E2303 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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The general rule of thumb to have full strength of a thread engagement is 1 X dia. for steel, 1.5 X dia. for cast iron. You can get longer studs if you are not comfortable but sometimes difficult to find the right body dia. and knurl.

most lug nuts are over 1/2" in length so they must be about 1.5 engagement. I am sure they have some safety factor in there. Search the net there are lots of screw and bolt mfgs. out there that probably have free info.

Some wheels flex pretty good might need 1/4" clearance but cannot say for sure. Trial and error?

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Would it make sense to slightly grind the weld overlap on the wheel rim (see pic)? I am a little bit more hesitant on messing around with the wheel than with the caliper.

 

Once it's all said and done and test driven, I will add more details about the rear disc brake conversion I am doing.

20160717_215510.thumb.jpg.6ba83efcd88d7d872ff4b182af2f1b6f.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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In regards to the caliper to wheel clearance I found that the Wilwood front brake disc kit I am installing specifies a minimum of 0.80". After moving the caliper as far as I could and grinding the edge I now have more than that so I hope to be in good shape. Granted those specs are for the front setup, but they should also be valid for the rear. I assume each wheel will flex differently. I will figure it out over time if I have some contact there, but hopefully not.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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The general rule of thumb to have full strength of a thread engagement is 1 X dia. for steel, 1.5 X dia. for cast iron. You can get longer studs if you are not comfortable but sometimes difficult to find the right body dia. and knurl.

most lug nuts are over 1/2" in length so they must be about 1.5 engagement. I am sure they have some safety factor in there. Search the net there are lots of screw and bolt mfgs. out there that probably have free info.

I am just below the one diameter engagement at ~0.46" so I should be good. I will check the tightness of the nuts more frequently to make sure they are not moving. From what I found, for a 1/2" stud it should be around 100 lb-ft.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

 

I just put a set of tin man connectors on my 71. Found the curve on the left connector was a little too aggressive, spent two hours with a torch and 6 ft bars correcting the bend for a snug fit...

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I've done the tin man sub frame connectors, I think I got them from Jegs because they were a bit cheaper and free shipping than direct from Tin Man.. Go figure. I like them because they look semi stock with the square tubing.

 

I just put a set of tin man connectors on my 71. Found the curve on the left connector was a little too aggressive, spent two hours with a torch and 6 ft bars correcting the bend for a snug fit...

My right connector needed a bit of persuation but they both went in with mo bending

 

1971 M-code Mach 1

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally the Muscletang left the garage. I didn't go farther than my block, but I was able to move it a little to make sure all is in working order. The only problem I had was that because I had some taller pads in the lift, when I backed out the car, the lift got hook and was dragged back by the car. Since right now I am running an open exhaust I couldn't hear what was going on under the car. I am glad I was moving very slow and eventually stopped because it didn't feel right. No major damage done to the car, but the pump of the lift fell over and got a little damaged. The car was so loud that I did not hear the pump falling over.

 

I took the time to clean the 2-year dust on top and the paint looks shiny again. I dealt with a few brake fluid leaks over the weekend but all of them seem to be sort out by now. So there she is with complete new brakes at four corners, new master, new lines, all new steering components and most of the suspension components. Not to mention new floors, many new interior parts (carpet and seats are still not it), headers, etc.

 

I have to fine tune couple things before I take it to a shop on Wednesday where they will install a custom exhaust system and align the front end. I will baby it until then. Then I have to go through the brake bedding procedure before I can really test the brakes and handling. Once I test everything and make sure all works, I will write more details about all the mods.

20160807_185743.thumb.jpg.62f37e0476f541e4d6d1daf8393ecc69.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Your car looks really good, congrats!!!

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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Thank you, I forgot how beautiful it looks. It's incredible how much you focus on the engine bay and underneath that after some time the car becomes a bunch of metal, linkages, wires and hoses!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Coming along nicely!

 

What are you going to run exhaust system wise (I know you said custom, but have you picked mufflers and pipe size yet?)

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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