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MuscleTang mod project thread (1971 M-Mach 1)


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Also if you don't want to make the patches yourself, you can do what I did and buy the out wheel housing and cut the part off you need. It saves a ton of time and fits great.

At first I was thinking why buy the whole wheel housing just for that small piece, but now I am leaning more towards that option. It will be more expensive, but like you say, it will save me a lot of time. Actually, I may purchase the two wheel housings and not the trunk drop off. The piece of the trunk drop off I need is flat, except for a portion of the rib that I should be able to approximately shape.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Also if you don't want to make the patches yourself, you can do what I did and buy the out wheel housing and cut the part off you need. It saves a ton of time and fits great.

At first I was thinking why buy the whole wheel housing just for that small piece, but now I am leaning more towards that option. It will be more expensive, but like you say, it will save me a lot of time. Actually, I may purchase the two wheel housings and not the trunk drop off. The piece of the trunk drop off I need is flat, except for a portion of the rib that I should be able to approximately shape.

Tony which side trunk drop off do you need?? I have a spare passenger side one you can have if you want.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Also if you don't want to make the patches yourself, you can do what I did and buy the out wheel housing and cut the part off you need. It saves a ton of time and fits great.

At first I was thinking why buy the whole wheel housing just for that small piece, but now I am leaning more towards that option. It will be more expensive, but like you say, it will save me a lot of time. Actually, I may purchase the two wheel housings and not the trunk drop off. The piece of the trunk drop off I need is flat, except for a portion of the rib that I should be able to approximately shape.

Tony which side trunk drop off do you need?? I have a spare passenger side one you can have if you want.

Thank you for the offer. Unfortunately, I need the driver's side. However, I need a very small piece and flat, so it should be easy to recreate. I have a lot of sheetmetal in the garage to use.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Tony, I'm in the same boat...I need a small section of the wheel house and also a trunk drop so I can match them up.

I assume you need the same section of the wheel house as me. Otherwise we could figure out a way to share one.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I need the rear lower portion of the passenger side wheelhouse....exactly like the one in Turtle's thread where I asked him a question about it.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-project-for-this-winter-71-mach-1?pid=286638#pid286638

 

Do you need the trunk drop off? You can have my passenger side one if you need it

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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Do you need the trunk drop off? You can have my passenger side one if you need it

 

Thanks Kevin, much appreciated. The drivers side is the one I'd need to match up with the style you have. The guy I bought my passenger side from still has the drivers side, so I'm planning to get that and a wheelhouse from him.

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Hey Tony, I bought left and right wheel houses. I found it to be worth the money because all of the curves and contours in the patch. I did have rust repair in front and rear of my wheel wells.

 

For your repair and not to disturb your nice paint I would do what Kevin said and use panel adhesive. In fact I don't think I would weld it at all. Just panel adhesive,finish it out smooth,undercoat wheel well,call it good.

 

When I did my cowl repair I just used panel adhesive and I feel it was a very good repair.

1264392897_1-29-12008.thumb.jpg.da25c81c015888d8aff6d0c71aa2d11d.jpg

1802848899_leftpatch005.jpg.ba98d80229bd7a0575402920f96f336a.jpg

728699507_leftpatch008.jpg.61838d8c4801ac0c29bfd6c5d5dc3fb6.jpg

2093772159_leftpatch010.jpg.7c32b14c606faaaff31671df527765f3.jpg

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1487960691_8-4-12006.thumb.jpg.425fdc609a45846b63da8fc314b948b1.jpg

- Mike

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Hey Tony, I bought left and right wheel houses. I found it to be worth the money because all of the curves and contours in the patch. I did have rust repair in front and rear of my wheel wells.

 

For your repair and not to disturb your nice paint I would do what Kevin said and use panel adhesive. In fact I don't think I would weld it at all. Just panel adhesive,finish it out smooth,undercoat wheel well,call it good.

 

When I did my cowl repair I just used panel adhesive and I feel it was a very good repair.

Thank you. Where did you find the cowl hat separately?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I cut it out of a 73 parts car I had. It cleaned up well after sand blasting.

 

Nice::thumb::. I need one!

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

 

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

 

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.

1432660641_01033.thumb.jpg.2a5a95d8c3e5eb4d66288cfea72b70cc.jpg

1052087528_8-4-12007.thumb.jpg.89a1a4d48fcb0b482349c630868d7e64.jpg

- Mike

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Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

 

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

 

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.

 

Clever. So technically speaking, one can fix a rusty cowl hat from inside the car without removing the upper cowl half, right? Cut the hat and rusty surroundings and then glue/weld a replacement piece all from inside the car. One could use seam sealer on the outer edge of the replacement piece to seal the seam on the exterior side. This will simplify things a lot. Never thought about it.

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Mach71351c, did you do the cowl install from above or below? I'm repairing a leaky, but not rusted through, cowl vent on my ranchero.

 

Tony, sorry about the brief hijack.

 

The baffle was rusted so I cut it out and installed the replacement from the bottom.

 

Clever. So technically speaking, one can fix a rusty cowl hat from inside the car without removing the upper cowl half, right? Cut the hat and rusty surroundings and then glue/weld a replacement piece all from inside the car. One could use seam sealer on the outer edge of the replacement piece to seal the seam on the exterior side. This will simplify things a lot. Never thought about it.

 

That's a pretty good idea if the rust is not too bad! Way better than a wet floor.

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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That's the situation with my ranchero. It leaks from between the stovepipe and lower flange and I can't find any rust. The current plan is to use a plastic stovepipe sold in those kits they offer. Remove the lower flange (with studs), cut the stovepipe out, clean up the metal and coat with rust bullet, then sandwich the plastic stovepipe between the cowl and lower flange. Attach the lower flange with stainless flathead screws.

 

Tony, I thought of welding in a patch from below but was concerned about what might happen on the upper surface of the cowl after welding. I think it would burn the coating off and leave bare metal. The adhesive solves that problem.

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Tony, I thought of welding in a patch from below but was concerned about what might happen on the upper surface of the cowl after welding. I think it would burn the coating off and leave bare metal. The adhesive solves that problem.

You are correct. You could recoat the upper surface of the cowl towards the middle (left) of the car through the upper cowl openings, but not the areas towards the outside of the car (right side).

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

I am currently working on fixing rust issues in the trunk and inner fenders. As I ready to paint the trunk area I am curious on how the trunk side of the tail light panel it's supposed to look from factory - this is a hard picture to find since it has to be taken from inside the trunk. By no means I am performing a rotisserie restoration, but I would like to approximate as close within my capabilities. After repairs, grinding, cleaning, prepping, I am covering the trunk floor with Rust Bullet, beadliner coating and trunk paint, but I don't know how the inside of the tail light panel is painted, how the center support of the panel is painted and how the lock bracket is painted. Also, if someone has a picture of the trunk seal groove (without seal) where it meets the inside of the trunk it would be appreciated.

Another question, I have seen some tail light panels painted black, was this an option, or just customization?

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I am currently working on fixing rust issues in the trunk and inner fenders. As I ready to paint the trunk area I am curious on how the trunk side of the tail light panel it's supposed to look from factory - this is a hard picture to find since it has to be taken from inside the trunk. By no means I am performing a rotisserie restoration, but I would like to approximate as close within my capabilities. After repairs, grinding, cleaning, prepping, I am covering the trunk floor with Rust Bullet, beadliner coating and trunk paint, but I don't know how the inside of the tail light panel is painted, how the center support of the panel is painted and how the lock bracket is painted. Also, if someone has a picture of the trunk seal groove (without seal) where it meets the inside of the trunk it would be appreciated.

Another question, I have seen some tail light panels painted black, was this an option, or just customization?

 

This was responded on this separate thread:

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-correct-appearance-of-trunk-side-of-tail-light-panel?pid=292709#pid292709

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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Now that I have the trunk and the repaired areas of the inner fender coated with 3 layer of Rust Bullet I am looking into seam sealing the overlaps and in between panels. However, as you can see in the picture, I had to cut a piece of the fender due to rust. The picture shows an underside view of the fender behind the wheel. I overlapped the new inner fender panel on top of the fender welding it with plug welds. The bottom of the fender now shows an overlap seam. I am not too concerned on making this look perfect, but I would like to do better. So I would describe what I am thinking of doing with the idea of getting some help from the forum. I will roughen the Rust Bullet coat with 120 grit, add some putty to smooth the overlap, spray with primer, and then spray with Argent paint. Does this make sense? If so, what type of putty should I use here? I have some 3M Bondo Glazing putty. With this plan, I seem to be missing the step of sealing the seam. I will seam seal on the inside, but I don't know if should do the outside and then shape it with putty. Help...... thank you.

 

 

20170306_121258.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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  • 1 month later...

Wanted to post some pictures here to summarize the work I did on the trunk and wheel wells.

Here are the steps involved:

-Clean, grind, sand, and I mean a lot of it.

-Cut rusted pieces.

-Kept sanding, and again, a lot of sanding. Some small areas of the rear fender were rusted through. These were in the surfaces that face down. I tried to remove all the rust and then a little more.

-Cut pieces out of sheetmetal to replace, fit and shape pieces. I bought new complete wheelwells for each side. I cut the pieces from here. However, the piece of the trunk drop off I made it myself from sheetmetal I had laying around.

-Welded pieces and ground the welds. I overlap the sheetmetal and spot welded. This is not an structural piece so I minimize the amount of welding.

-Clean and primed all the sanded surfaces with three layers of Rust Bullet (with brush).

-Applied seam sealer.

-Applied epoxy to the through holes in the rear fenders.

-Cleaned and applied two coats of UPOL bedliner (with brush) on the interior surfaces.

-Sprayed BoomMat insulation on the trunk side of the wheel wells

-Sprayed Eastwood's trunk paint on interior. As you can see in the pictures, some areas turned out a bit more yellow. My guess is that there was a reaction between the BoomMat and trunk paint. I tried to fix it by removing the trunk paint, priming and repainting, but to no avail. The pictures exaggerate the yellowing due to the flash. You can't see unless you are really looking for it.

-Sprayed Eastwood's undercoating on the exterior areas of the wheel wells that were affected.

-Repaired the bottom surface of the rear fender with epoxy, putty, primer and "closely" matching paint. It is not perfect but it is well hidden since it is facing downwards.

 

Before:

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20170109_231311.jpg

 

20170109_232625.jpg

 

20170109_232704.jpg

 

Grinding, sanding, cutting:

20170301_222616.jpg

 

20170301_222701.jpg

 

20170301_222730.jpg

 

20170304_223730.jpg

 

20170305_000605.jpg

 

20170305_000639.jpg

 

Rust Bullet coats:

20170305_224453.jpg

 

20170305_224521.jpg

 

20170306_121219.jpg

 

20170306_121258.jpg

 

Seam sealer:

20170312_173705.jpg

 

20170312_173806.jpg

 

UPOL bedliner coats:

20170313_122842.jpg

 

20170313_122852.jpg

 

Eastwood's trunk paing

20170331_175900.jpg

 

20170331_175927.jpg

 

Wheel well after Eastwood's undercoating:

20170428_174931.jpg

 

Bottom of rear fender after repair and painting:

20170428_175011.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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