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Hello boys

Need advice, look photos of this engine crossmember, coupe 302, 73.

Has been there for a while as it is with no problems.

Future use may be short drives during week ends.

Should I change it ?

If you think so, from where can I get such spare?

Is needed to take engine out for the replacement? It goes welded or bolted?

 

Thanks everybody.

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Hello boys

Need advice, look photos of this engine crossmember, coupe 302, 73.

Has been there for a while as it is with no problems.

Future use may be short drives during week ends.

Should I change it ?

If you think so, from where can I get such spare?

Is needed to take engine out for the replacement? It goes welded or bolted?

 

Thanks everybody.


You will not regret doing the right thing. I would replace it

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WOW, not I have never seen that unless the car did one hell of a jump!!

 

I agree with alarmrick, I would replace it, I don't think its reproduced, you might need to find someone parting out a car to get it.

Iyman

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Hello boys

Need advice, look photos of this engine crossmember, coupe 302, 73.

Has been there for a while as it is with no problems.

Future use may be short drives during week ends.

Should I change it ?

If you think so, from where can I get such spare?

Is needed to take engine out for the replacement? It goes welded or bolted?

 

Thanks everybody.

Hmmmmm, lets see whether can see the cross member on miine.

Was afraid of bottoming out so I replace the Boss oil pan for the 7 quart shallow but extra 'WIDE' Canton w/baffles. (as the other guys said, if it can hold till a project....like a oil pan upgrade, mine is onto a 351 Cleveland with very stiff suspension and the extra weight @ 4,000 lbs, would need it a lot sooner)

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It is welded in.

The crossmember locates the lower control arms. In my opinion, if the car can be aligned properly, I wouldn't change it.

My car has a crossmember in similar (but not as bad) condition to yours. I am not going to bother with it, unless the suspension won't measure out or adjust correctly (my car's suspension is currently only partially assembled).

 

It looks to be somewhat of a difficult job for the average driveway mechanic to accomplish. Can it be done? Certainly, but at what "cost to need" ratio?

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

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It is welded in.

The crossmember locates the lower control arms. In my opinion, if the car can be aligned properly, I wouldn't change it.

My car has a crossmember in similar (but not as bad) condition to yours. I am not going to bother with it, unless the suspension won't measure out or adjust correctly (my car's suspension is currently only partially assembled).

 

It looks to be somewhat of a difficult job for the average driveway mechanic to accomplish. Can it be done? Certainly, but at what "cost to need" ratio?


Thanks all for this first batch of comments. Alignment is good so far. Will check if suspensión suffers from this condition.

Have all a pleasent ride, you deserve it!.

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I'm agreeing with the not do it guys. That is, If the overall length is not been affected, which would or could effect the front end alignment, I'd leave it until another project made it accessible. From the pictures, I don't think it's damaged to the point that it narrowed the frame rails. I put on in my 71 very a couple years ago. It was on the rotisserie for floor replacement and I had two parts cars to rob. My original looked like yours. I look to see if I have another one.

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Alignment doesn't mean much here, as one can compensate for unibody twists and bends by adjusting the camber and caster until each spindles winds up sitting it the same place when the wheels are bolt straight on the alignment table. Since the pivot points of the control arms are no longer in the same place changed, what seems to be good alignment gets screwed up the moment you steer left or right. It's not a "good" workaround if you insist on perfection.

 

However, if you don't want to spend a lot of money, can live with it this way, AND have seen or felt no ill effects - you can probably leave it as-is.

 

On the other hand, if it bothers you: Do NOT under any circumstances attempt ANY repair until you've had the unibody measured to factory spec. The chances that the unibody in this area remains perfectly aligned is unlikely - if only at the lower control arm bolsters. You need to have this straightened out FIRST, with the damaged crossmember in place; thus allowing the twisted areas to pull themselves into their proper positions throughout the damaged area.

 

I might add that the left control arm mount does appear pushed backwards. Then again, it might be fine. Having the unibody datum points taken and compared with the factory charts is Step #1 - no other way about it.

 

-Kurt

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I would change it because over time, the frame could distort, shifting panels, adjusting geometry, etc. Better to get it now before any warping happens. Then you'd have 2 problems.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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Hello boys

Need advice, look photos of this engine crossmember, coupe 302, 73.

Has been there for a while as it is with no problems.

Future use may be short drives during week ends.

Should I change it ?

If you think so, from where can I get such spare?

Is needed to take engine out for the replacement? It goes welded or bolted?

 

Thanks everybody.

ps, something I did not see in looking at your's, to mine as I have the photos documenting the underbelly of my mustang but having been more in the shop all the time I owned it for serious upgrade and modification, I noticed by my photo, my crossmember is tubular and by far more sturdy than what yours is and would recommend blocking up your mustang to get to the cross member in relieving the stress weight of the car and see no problem in removing yours for a sturdier crossmember. Hope this makes sense to you and good luck finding the good help and the facilities to get it blocked up safely, if you get my meaning. As for the help, I farmed my entire car out where the engine and tranny when to different places as the body as you see by my photo album in restoration went extensive however for my money, still missed grounding my frame and rear panel to each other and thus there is a constant readjusting of the door on that driver side.

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Amy's is in simular shape, from what I can tell it has been that way for a long time. When we first got the car I did a complete suspension rebuild as a matter of course. Had it aligned and has been true ever since. I plan to replace it at a later date but for the last 5 yrs. it has caused no issues.

Live, Laugh, love

ECTA, Ohio mile Landspeed record holder

C/GALT-136.36, AA/FALT 159.38 mph, New B/GALT Record 180.577mph- speed is the need !

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Thanks all, what I did is checked alignement, fix some bad numbers and result is acceptable, so will stay as is until next check in 500 miles more.

 

 

Keep windows open and enjoy life...

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If you have decent welding skills and you plan on pulling the engine then i think replacing it is the way to go. I replaced one on a 72 someone decided to put a bolt in one for removing the oil pan on a bracket car. I went through the forum here and a member had one off a parts car that i got cheap and asked them to cut it larger than i needed so i could grind and cut it to just fit into place. The time I spent on replacing it was worth the effort i think.

 

 

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Rick

 

 

"dirt's for racing asphalt is for getting there!!!"

 

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