Sanden Compressor Conversion

Gents,

I just spoke with the guys down at Classic Auto Air about upgrading the compressor to a sanden style compressor. The suggestion from Classic is not to reuse the existing 3 pass coil and go to a new 6 pass version. The rational was that when sitting in traffic I would see a reduction in cooling vs. at highway speeds. All of a sudden my $400 project jumped to $850 using their kit.

In typical "this ought'a be easy" mindset, I figured new hoses,compressor and bracket and I was in business. Maybe not? :huh:

If you have done this swap, have you used the original condenser?

Thanks for the assistance!

::thumb::

i have only used the original condenser so i have nothing to compare it to, however, i can tell you that if you use r134, you need to use between 15 and 20% less.

i have only used the original condenser so i have nothing to compare it to, however, i can tell you that if you use r134, you need to use between 15 and 20% less.

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Thanks for the responce- Are you satisfied with air/ cooling performance the sanden running thru the stock condenser?

i have only used the original condenser so i have nothing to compare it to, however, i can tell you that if you use r134, you need to use between 15 and 20% less.

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Thanks for the responce- Are you satisfied with air/ cooling performance the sanden running thru the stock condenser?

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hello . no prob . . actually the compressor has nothing to do with ho cold it get . . the r12 seems to cool better .

I have done this and used the high efficiency condenser and evaporator with great success. The condenser makes a big difference mainly because of the size of the tubes and high fin count which is the key to heat transfer out of the 134 coolant gas.

Thanks for the responses. Sounds like while the old stuff will work, I may as well bite the bullet and upgrade all the components engineered for the new coolant.

Just an FYI,, EBay / Airparts in Texas has the same conversion kit for $100 less than Classic Air and will ship for free.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151201059471?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I just completed a conversion a few hours ago. Being in the business I did the job as I know it to be done correctly. There are thing involved that classic air doesn't mention such as whenever you replace a compressor you should flush the evaporator, Condensor and lines. I also replaced the h-block as a matter of practice and you have to remove it anyway to flush the evap.

Next I dicovered that the adaptor plate did not come with any mechanism to fasten the ps cooler to. I have to call them tomorrow on this. Last surprise was the low pressure line had different ends on it than the original. It fits but I had to route it back against the firewall and to the compressor from behind.

One last tip. You need to remove the distributor to get to the compressor mounting bolts on the passenger side. Be sure to tap the engine around to TDC #1 before you pull it.

I'll evacuate and recharge it tomorrow at my shop and let you know how it works with the stock condensor.

I am curious what you used to flush. We use Rx-11 to flush lines when switching from R22 to 410A.

Just an FYI,, EBay / Airparts in Texas has the same conversion kit for $100 less than Classic Air and will ship for free.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151201059471?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

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I always smile when i see these links Having hit this particular link the international shipping comes in at $250 rofl

Since you guys work with the air a lot have any of you used the Duracool 12 A refrigerants? It is big in Canada and can be used in equipment in the U.S.A. but not approved for auto use in U.S.A. yet. It has a higher auto ignition point than R134 which is 1,328 F. and Duracool 12A is 1,635 F. One thing I see that is a big cost factor is the amount you need to install. If a system, not necessarily auto, that has a 15 oz. fill with 134 only needs 6 oz of the Duracool 12 A. They say you don't have to flush when changing over.

I purchased some last year but getting the garage up has put filling the system on hold. I had the system back in the car with new o-rings and was wiring the MSD when it went on hold so never got the engine cranked to charge the system. It is Hydrocarbon based like 134 and is 100% organic. I did change the lubricant to theirs in the system but that is as far as I got. Here is link to their site with info if interested. http://www.duracool.com/Duracool/faqs.html

When I get the garage up and everything in place I will get back on finishing & filling the 73 vert system and report how it preforms.

I installed my system from airparts.. No problems.. Much less expensive than classicair.. Also, both compainies advise in the instructions that it's highly recommend flushing the evaporator and showing proof of that cleaning with a receipt for the warranty.

Bit the bullet yesterday and purchased all new parts (original style) for my restoration. Expensive to say the least, the one downfall to having a car with AC when doing a restoration. The only piece I have not yet decided to purchase is the compressor as I want to look at mine closer to see if it can be reused. I want to find out how hard they are to change the seals, etc.

I am a believer that when dealing with old AC systems (in this case 44 years), you cant just replace certain pieces, you have to get the cheque book out and then keep the purchase quiet re: the better half... At least the shipping is free to Buffalo, a 40 min drive over the border to pick up. But, one last kick in the gut, the 13% duty to bring it back across the border... Some day, the vault door will close on this restoration...

Just to add. I am using the Sanden Compressor with 134a and used all the Classic Air parts with good results. When I was doing the hoses I installed a pressure switch so that if a line leaks or for some reason bursts and you lose the refrigerant the compressor is automatically shut off. You just wire it in series to the compressor clutch and it is normally closed when the lines have pressure. If pressure is lost the switch opens and cuts power to the clutch. If I remember correctly it was about a $30.00 part which is cheap insurance.