cleaning and conditioning old wires

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Joined
Oct 4, 2014
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Location
Minnesota, USA
My Car
1972 H code fastback Boss 351 clone
Some of the wires in my mustang are a bit dirty and stiff. Does anybody have any tips on how to clean and soften the wires again? I dont really want to rewire the car. Just wondering if there is a way to condition the wires?

 
Wax & Grease remover (usually won't take off color code paint stripes), followed with Vinylex, 303 protectant, or several coats of silicone spray. It won't bring them to as new condition but, it helps. Chuck

 
Lacquer thinner then hand cleaner works well.
Will this take off color? Should this be a wipe of lacquer or long soak? I'm sure the hand cleaner is used to remove the lacquer but which softens the insulation, the lacquer or cleaner? Thanks!



Wax & Grease remover (usually won't take off color code paint stripes), followed with Vinylex, 303 protectant, or several coats of silicone spray. It won't bring them to as new condition but, it helps. Chuck
Similarly, W&G cleans while Vinylex protects. Which one softens brittle insulation? Thanks also! :D

 
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+1 on the hand cleaner - non-pumice, of course. The cleaners with Lanolin will help "soften" things up as well, and offer up a nice fresh scent. The Store-Brand from O-Reilly Auto Parts has a Cherry smell to it. ;) :D

 
i've used 100% alcohol, 409 cleaner/degresser.

Orange goo gone to get rid of sticky glues.

just spray a lint free cloth with the cleaner wrap the wire with it and wipe down.

lacquer thinner works but it can attack some types of plastic wire protector and it will take off ink and paint markings on the wire sometimes it will remove the secondary color on a wire that is painted on. like if you have a red and green stripe wire it may take the green ink right off.

you can also use electrical cleaner spray a clothe and wipe down the wire. it can be very aggressive also so you may want to test it on a piece of wire befre you do the entire harness.

 
I wonder if automatic transmission additives might work, as they are supposed to soften and rejuvenate seals and plastic parts?
I'd check the ingredients and test on some "throw-away" wiring first - all of the detergents in ATF and ATF-like products would probably strip the colors pretty quickly.

 
Lacquer thinner then hand cleaner works well.
Will this take off color? Should this be a wipe of lacquer or long soak? I'm sure the hand cleaner is used to remove the lacquer but which softens the insulation, the lacquer or cleaner? Thanks!



Wax & Grease remover (usually won't take off color code paint stripes), followed with Vinylex, 303 protectant, or several coats of silicone spray. It won't bring them to as new condition but, it helps. Chuck
Similarly, W&G cleans while Vinylex protects. Which one softens brittle insulation? Thanks also! :D
Carefully use lacquer thinner with a rag to gently remove grease and oil. Simple Green works to. Hand cleaner with lanolin as Mister 4x4 stated to finish cleaning and condition the insulation.

Chuck's method sounds like a winner as well.

 
I use lacquer thinner exclusively except for some of the newer plastic connectors which soften up w/LT. For those, I use simple vinegar or Formula 409. LT does not remove wire colors except for those wires that are painted (typically the yellow/white fuel sending line near the trunk).

I've tried all of the hand cleaners and don't recommend them, as they leave a greasy film that will attract dirt.

The worst material to clean is the firewall sealant goop: I've yet to find something that takes it off easily. Another item that is extremely hard to clean is paint on the harness wrap, particularly on the tail-light harness braiding. For wires and wrapping, some of the paint can be removed w/LT, other kinds of paint cannot. I've not been able to determine what paint can't be removed, but I suspect high build primer.

Now why any body would paint the car with wiring in place is beyond reason. If the wiring isn't removed or at least wrapped in aluminum foil, there's almost no chance that the surface that's to be painted was prepped properly as well.

OK...time to get off the soap box.

 
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I use lacquer thinner exclusively except for some of the newer plastic connectors which soften up w/LT. For those, I use simple vinegar or Formula 409. LT does not remove wire colors except for those wires that are painted (typically the yellow/white fuel sending line near the trunk).

I've tried all of the hand cleaners and don't recommend them, as they leave a greasy film that will attract dirt.

The worst material to clean is the firewall sealant goop: I've yet to find something that takes it off easily. Another item that is extremely hard to clean is paint on the harness wrap, particularly on the tail-light harness braiding. For wires and wrapping, some of the paint can be removed w/LT, other kinds of paint cannot. I've not been able to determine what paint can't be removed, but I suspect high build primer.

Now why any body would paint the car with wiring in place is beyond reason. If the wiring isn't removed or at least wrapped in aluminum foil, there's almost no chance that the surface that's to be painted was prepped properly as well.

OK...time to get off the soap box.
I hear you Randy,

Sadly this condition is what's known as LAZY PAINTER'S SYNDROME. All manner of items like door jam rubbers, striker plates, stickers,wiring, moldings, vent grilles,glass,catch plates,door light switches etc, etc, all fall prey to the dreaded lazy painters syndrome.:D Dam those dirty rotten painters!:D

Handy Hint! ......................... Try using 2Pak Reducer instead or thinners. You will find it has a good stringent action to it for removing dirt and gunk, but is more chemically passive than thinners is, so it doesn't attack the plastics or surfaces you're trying to revive and make supple again like thinners tends to do. It also tends not to leave your surfaces and plastics dry like thinners tends to do. IT WORKS!! Buy it from your auto paint supply shops.

Greg.:)

 
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I hear you Randy,

Sadly this condition is what's known as LAZY PAINTER'S SYNDROME. All manner of items like door jam rubbers, striker plates, stickers,wiring, moldings, vent grilles,glass,catch plates,door light switches etc, etc, all fall prey to the dreaded lazy painters syndrome.:D Dam those dirty rotten painters!:D

Handy Hint! ......................... Try using 2Pak Reducer instead or thinners. You will find it has a good stringent action to it for removing dirt and gunk, but is more chemically passive than thinners is, so it doesn't attack the plastics or surfaces you're trying to revive and make supple again like thinners tends to do. It also tends not to leave your surfaces and plastics dry like thinners tends to do. IT WORKS!! Buy it from your auto paint supply shops.

Greg.:)
Yup - same "condition" that has primer, color, and clear dust everywhere on mine... including rear axle, springs, traction bars, subframe connectors, front suspension, aprons in the engine compartment, and even the dashboard, package tray, and trim area (which I repainted before reinstalling the interior, of course). They even managed to overspray my e-brake pedal! smh

Based on what you're saying about "more chemically passive," I gotta wonder if something like a strong ACNE cleaner would have any effect without distressing the colors (like Witchhazel, and the like) - those things are designed to remove oils without ruining your skin, after all. I know straight-up isopropyl alcohol will wipe the stripes right off, so I gotta recommend testing it out on a non-essential patch of wiring, of course.

 
That over spray sounds pretty bad Eric. Did you have a go at them for stuffing up all that?

Greg.:)
I thought about it, then figured, "Nah - I was just happy to have done what they got done." They worked some small miracles on the quarters, after all... and once I got them back on the right track with the hood TuTone (as close as it could get, anyway), I figured I'd just be fine with everything else.

I also had on my "'new paint-job after looking like such a turd for so long' goggles" when I picked it up. It looked so awesome in the sunlight, all painted and whatnot, that I didn't immediately see all the "little stuff" they messed up or didn't give enough attention.

The little things, after everything I'd been through to that point, were just 'little things' I can live with, all said and done. Now, if they'd gotten anything on the engine, visible dashboard areas, etc., I would've had issues. ;) :D

 
That over spray sounds pretty bad Eric. Did you have a go at them for stuffing up all that?

Greg.:)
I thought about it, then figured, "Nah - I was just happy to have done what they got done." They worked some small miracles on the quarters, after all... and once I got them back on the right track with the hood TuTone (as close as it could get, anyway), I figured I'd just be fine with everything else.

I also had on my "'new paint-job after looking like such a turd for so long' goggles" when I picked it up. It looked so awesome in the sunlight, all painted and whatnot, that I didn't immediately see all the "little stuff" they messed up or didn't give enough attention.

The little things, after everything I'd been through to that point, were just 'little things' I can live with, all said and done. Now, if they'd gotten anything on the engine, visible dashboard areas, etc., I would've had issues. ;) :D

Gotcha!

Greg.:)

 
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