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Well-known facts...that are wrong!


Guest Kit Sullivan
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Guest Kit Sullivan

Over the years I have run into plenty of "experts" that repeat and claim certain common knowledge that is well-known and generally accepted as "fact", even though it is erroneous.

 

For example:

How many times have you heard someone make the claim that the "W" in motor oil ( for instance: 20W-50) means "weight"? Sounds logical, but it is incorrect.

It really stands for "winter", designating that the oil is formulated to be used in "winter driving conditions".

Some "experts" will argue thier incorrect "facts" to the point of getting nasty!

 

There are plenty examples of this around...who has some more?

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I found this on Google.

 

"The W or winter number is important for low temperature performance. Referring to the J300 table, to list a multi-viscosity oil as a 10W the Cranking (cP) max at temperature of -25C (-13F) can not be higher than 7000 and the Pumping (cP) max with no yield stress at temperature of -30C (-22F) can not be higher than 60,000. As you can see from the table, the lower the W number the lower the Cranking (cP) at lower temperatures. This means that when your engine is cold the lower the W number the easier the oil will flow."

Iyman

1972 Mustang Convertable :run_horse:  [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=1507]Visit My Garage[/button]

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Facebook Page [button=https://www.facebook.com/MUSTANGCCNE]MCCNE FB Page[/button]

 

Visit the Mustang Car Club of New England Web Page [button=http://www.mccne.com/]MCCNE Web Page[/button]

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High octane gas makes every car run better and get better mileage, no matter what (how low) the compression is.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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the M in 351M is for modified or midland.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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OK, if not "modified", what is the "m" in 351M designating?

 

Mistake! ;)

Ron

The Rickster, a 1973 Mach 1, being restored as a tribute to my brother who passed away with COVID in July 2020.

Billy, a 1976 Ford Bronco, also needs a lot of work.

El Guapo, a 1986 F150, frame-off Resto-Mod.

Also, in the queue, a 1950 Ford F1 Panel truck and 1962 Falcon Ranchero

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Tbe "M" stands for "Michigan", as in "Michigan Casting Center", the foundry where the blocks were made.

 

Dang, I was convinced it stood for "Much, More, Macho", learn something every day.

Jim

 

M code 71 Mach 1, 351 4V Cleveland, Ram Air (not factory), C6 Trans, 3.5 rear

 

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All wrong:

 

M-codes are Boss 351s.

Stunt drivers wrecked four 302 Mustangs during the shooting of Diamonds are Forever.

All Mach 1s have NACA/NASA hoods.

Eleanor was a 1973 Mustang with a 1971 front end.

Eleanor was a 1971 Mustang with a 1972 hood.

Eleanor was a 1971 Mustang with 1973 fenders and bumper.

Cowl rot is overrated.

You can put a Ford 400 block in a Mustang with no modifications because it's just a tall-deck 351C.

Ford "400M"

Factory-installed, 1973 date-coded parts will not be found in a July 1972 build for the 1972 model year.

All NACA/NASA hoods are Ram Air hoods.

All NACA/NASA hoods have tu-tone paint.

All NACA/NASA hoods are supposed to have twist locks.

The bright trim on the driprails and around the windows are supposed to be high-polished and shine like chrome to be factory correct.

 

And the kicker:

"Just buy the car and worry about ____ later. ____ won't be that hard to fix."

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Common European misconception:

all 123 Mustangs are Mach1s.

All Mach1s are 123 Mustangs ( as in "there are no 69 or 70s Mach1s")

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Mike
"If I were you...... I´d rather be me." 😛
Check out my video:
http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-mustang-in-action

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Guest Kit Sullivan

...or 74-78 Mach 1s either!


I owned a '79 Lincoln Mk-V, and the emissions decal attached to the driver-side valve-cover identified the engine as a "351M/400".

The specs in the owner manual and other places listed it as a "400".

 

Here's another one: ever heard that the "AR" in "AR-15" stands for "assault rifle"? That is a fairly common one.

It actually stands for "ArmaLite Rifle", the designer of the rifle.

 

Or, how about a PCV valve being called a "Pollution Control Valve"? Actually, if that were correct, you would be saying "valve" twice in the name.

It is actually "Positive Crankcase Ventilation"...which I am sure we all know on this site.

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'Ported' vacuum increases with load.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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I owned a '79 Lincoln Mk-V, and the emissions decal attached to the driver-side valve-cover identified the engine as a "351M/400".

The specs in the owner manual and other places listed it as a "400".

 

And they're all Cartier editions, because the clock says so. :rolleyes:

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Guest Kit Sullivan

Re: ported vacuum.

 

Ported vacuum does indeed "activate" at a higher RPM than idle, as opposed to full manifold vacuum which is strongest at idle.

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...or 74-78 Mach 1s either!


 

 

Or, how about a PCV valve being called a "Pollution Control Valve"? Actually, if that were correct, you would be saying "valve" twice in the name.

It is actually "Positive Crankcase Ventilation"...which I am sure we all know on this site.

 

Some folks call it "PVC valve". :dodgy:

 

as in - Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe

 

WRONG.

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Some folks call it "PVC valve". :dodgy:

 

as in - Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipe

 

WRONG.

 

Ray

 

Too true...

 

rofl

 

Or how about those that call the transmission fluid 'Dextron' vice 'Dexron?'

Eric

mach1sig2.gif

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Guest Kit Sullivan

How about these incorrect "engine facts" from the, uhh....experts:

 

1) the 440 HEMI

2) Every 302 with 4-barrell is now magically a "BOSS 302".

3) '69 Z-28 had a "Ford" 302 in it.

4) 4-V means "4-valve"

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2) Every 302 with 4-barrell is now magically a "BOSS 302."

 

In this town, EVERY 302 is a BOSS 302, which includes "that 1985 Lincoln Town Car sitting on flat tires over there..."

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Sadly I have well know family fact that's wrong.

 

If you ask him, my brother will tell you that his wife respects him and appreciates all his hard work. Even worse is, "She has our finances under control, there's nothing to worry about."

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A newly rebuilt engine can run hot because they are 'tight'.

'Mike'

73 Convertible - 351C/4V CC heads/4bolt/forged flat tops/comp 270/rhodes/mallory unilite/tri-power/hookers/glasspacks/c6/3.50 limited slip/Gear Vendors/Global West sub frames, strut rods and shelby style traction bars/ Rear sway bar/tilt steering (not original)

 

Pics of modifications included in: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-1973-convertible--3335]My Garage[/button]

 

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"You don't need any special oil, lube, or prep to break in a camshaft."

 

So says the fellow that wipes his cam in less than 50 miles.

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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