Hi All
What is the best way to remove all the glue left from a vinyl lid before prepping for paint.
What is the best way to remove all the glue left from a vinyl lid before prepping for paint.
Roof prep
- Thread starter Luke
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A DA sander with 80 grit disc is what I use.
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I used 3M adhesive remover to remove glue and it worked great. It can be found at any auto paint supplier.
If you go the sanding route go with 180 sanding disk to remove sanding scrathes from the 80
Jim
Jim
That's what I wanted to hear. Is it damaging to other paint. As we are just looking to pull the skin off the roof prep the roof only and spray it candy or heavy metal flake. Obviously not a mustang
just needs to be an ok 10 step fun car.
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I don't think it damages the paint as long as you wipe it right off and don't let it sit but I was repainting anyway and wasn't concerned about that. I'll check the can and see if there are any warnings on it and let you know.That's what I wanted to hear. Is it damaging to other paint. As we are just looking to pull the skin off the roof prep the roof only and spray it candy or heavy metal flake. Obviously not a mustang
-john
It's 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner # 08984. Sells for about $20,00 USD a qt.I don't think it damages the paint as long as you wipe it right off and don't let it sit but I was repainting anyway and wasn't concerned about that. I'll check the can and see if there are any warnings on it and let you know.That's what I wanted to hear. Is it damaging to other paint. As we are just looking to pull the skin off the roof prep the roof only and spray it candy or heavy metal flake. Obviously not a mustang
-john
Here is what it said:
"Specially blended solvent for removal of light paint overspray, adhesive residue, wax, grease, tree sap, dirt, road tar, oil and bugs in aerosol form. Quickly removes waxes, greases, oil and tars. Will not harm most thoroughly cured automotive paint, vinyls, or fabrics when properly used. "
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Hi Luke,
Are you intending to strip the paint off down to the bare metal on your roof, or try and leave it alone and save it?
Greg.
Are you intending to strip the paint off down to the bare metal on your roof, or try and leave it alone and save it?
Greg.
We want to save as much work as possible for now,so i was thinking block it back a bit,prime and spray,it doesn't need to be perfect yet just look cool from 10 paces.
basically what's happening is we want to pull the vinyl on a statesman splash some purple/lilac candy or metal flake on the roof,drop it on its guts with stock wheels and trim,dump the pipes and drive it for a few months before it gets a full build.
Not the car just for visual reference
basically what's happening is we want to pull the vinyl on a statesman splash some purple/lilac candy or metal flake on the roof,drop it on its guts with stock wheels and trim,dump the pipes and drive it for a few months before it gets a full build.
Not the car just for visual reference
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Luke,
Thanks for the feedback. Why i asked you was, if you want to keep the existing paint that's on the car's roof, the first thing is to determine what kind of paint is on there now already. If it's acrylic lacquer, you'll have probs, because the solvents in the glue will have etched and eaten into the paint somewhat already, thus making the prep job on the existing paint much harder to sand down ready for your primer. In the worst case senario, you would have to sand down the paint to the old primer or even down to the metal , and then re prime again. Also, be careful using solvents to dissolve the glue, as they too can penetrate into and soften the acrylic lacquer paint as well. (3M glue remover and wax and grease remover for example) Never of course use thinners on any acrylic paint finish.
If on the other hand, you have baked acrylic or 2Pak finish on there already, you will be good to go to effectively remove your glue without any solvent penetration issues. I would test a very small area first with thinners on a rag, to see if you get immediate solvent reaction with your existing paint, and take it from there. So yes, after the glue has been removed, sand down your existing paint, re prime, sand again, and your good to go with the colour coats.
A technique i use to dissolve and remove the glue only, is to saturate a large white cotton rag with w&g remover very well, but not dripping, then lay it on the surface, and then cover the wet rag over with plastic sheeting to stop evaporation of the solvent. The rag stays wet for much longer, and lets the solvent go to work and do its job of softening up the glue for easier removal. Lastly, if you decided that you wanted to go straight down to bare metal and not muck around, you have two choices. Use 40 or 80 grit dry on a DA sander, and rip it all down to metal, or use paint stripper carefully to go straight down to the metal. When DA sanding, watch out for excessive heat buildup on the metal, as you could warp or buckle the steel.
Hope all that helps,
Greg.
Thanks for the feedback. Why i asked you was, if you want to keep the existing paint that's on the car's roof, the first thing is to determine what kind of paint is on there now already. If it's acrylic lacquer, you'll have probs, because the solvents in the glue will have etched and eaten into the paint somewhat already, thus making the prep job on the existing paint much harder to sand down ready for your primer. In the worst case senario, you would have to sand down the paint to the old primer or even down to the metal , and then re prime again. Also, be careful using solvents to dissolve the glue, as they too can penetrate into and soften the acrylic lacquer paint as well. (3M glue remover and wax and grease remover for example) Never of course use thinners on any acrylic paint finish.
If on the other hand, you have baked acrylic or 2Pak finish on there already, you will be good to go to effectively remove your glue without any solvent penetration issues. I would test a very small area first with thinners on a rag, to see if you get immediate solvent reaction with your existing paint, and take it from there. So yes, after the glue has been removed, sand down your existing paint, re prime, sand again, and your good to go with the colour coats.
A technique i use to dissolve and remove the glue only, is to saturate a large white cotton rag with w&g remover very well, but not dripping, then lay it on the surface, and then cover the wet rag over with plastic sheeting to stop evaporation of the solvent. The rag stays wet for much longer, and lets the solvent go to work and do its job of softening up the glue for easier removal. Lastly, if you decided that you wanted to go straight down to bare metal and not muck around, you have two choices. Use 40 or 80 grit dry on a DA sander, and rip it all down to metal, or use paint stripper carefully to go straight down to the metal. When DA sanding, watch out for excessive heat buildup on the metal, as you could warp or buckle the steel.
Hope all that helps,
Greg.
Excellent advice Greg thank you. It's stock holden paint so I will test it when I get to the shed Saturday.
HBerg79
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Luke,
Thanks for the feedback. Why i asked you was, if you want to keep the existing paint that's on the car's roof, the first thing is to determine what kind of paint is on there now already. If it's acrylic lacquer, you'll have probs, because the solvents in the glue will have etched and eaten into the paint somewhat already, thus making the prep job on the existing paint much harder to sand down ready for your primer. In the worst case senario, you would have to sand down the paint to the old primer or even down to the metal , and then re prime again. Also, be careful using solvents to dissolve the glue, as they too can penetrate into and soften the acrylic lacquer paint as well. (3M glue remover and wax and grease remover for example) Never of course use thinners on any acrylic paint finish.
If on the other hand, you have baked acrylic or 2Pak finish on there already, you will be good to go to effectively remove your glue without any solvent penetration issues. I would test a very small area first with thinners on a rag, to see if you get immediate solvent reaction with your existing paint, and take it from there. So yes, after the glue has been removed, sand down your existing paint, re prime, sand again, and your good to go with the colour coats.
A technique i use to dissolve and remove the glue only, is to saturate a large white cotton rag with w&g remover very well, but not dripping, then lay it on the surface, and then cover the wet rag over with plastic sheeting to stop evaporation of the solvent. The rag stays wet for much longer, and lets the solvent go to work and do its job of softening up the glue for easier removal. Lastly, if you decided that you wanted to go straight down to bare metal and not muck around, you have two choices. Use 40 or 80 grit dry on a DA sander, and rip it all down to metal, or use paint stripper carefully to go straight down to the metal. When DA sanding, watch out for excessive heat buildup on the metal, as you could warp or buckle the steel.
Hope all that helps,
Greg.
