Circuit Panel and Regulator

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Mark73mach1

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2013
Messages
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Location
Colorado
My Car
1973 Ford Mustang Mach 1 351C-4V, Ram Air, FMX, Wimbledon White
1969 Ford Mustang Sportsroof, 445-4V, T-5, Black Jade
1973 Ford Mustang Convertible
Now that I have the instrument bezel wit the Speedo and Tach off to the instrument shop for calibration and paint, should I replace the circuit panel and the regulator. Replace both, replace one or leave the originals.

I have had no electrical or instrument gauges issues. The tach needed to be recalibrated because it would not go past 4000 rpms.

I have read many posts that people who replaced the circuit panel has numerous problems with them.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
If everything was working OK, then don't touch it!

The circuit cards are very fragile, and expensive. Plus, the 69/70 versions have had a shitload of problems as repro's: some have had to go through 3 boards to find one good one. At $75 a pop, non-refundable, it gets very expensive real quick.

I'm almost tempted to offer services to replace the whole circuit card with hard-wiring the dash cluster with a pull-apart connector; the dash cluster would have to be sent to me for fitting.

 
Thanks for advice. Randy what would be the timeline and approx. cost to hard wire everything?

What are the pros and cons for converting?

 
It would probably take me a good weekend to find all the replacement lamps, wire everything up, re-mount the CVR, wire the connectors (both from the dash and the underdash harness, replacing the latter). I've not done this before, but am very comfortable it is do-able. For the first person to send in the dash cluster and the underdash harness and let me do my magic, I'd only charge $50. That charge is for about 1.5 hours' worth of labor, but until I do one and find out how much effort it really takes, I won't know what to charge...probably $100-$125.

Pros: higher reliability, easier dash cluster disconnection, two year no questions asked warranty, unlimited consultation.

Cons: it is a modification so if you want to stay stock, it's a con; possible shipping damage of the dash cluster. If I cannot access the input of the gauges from the side or back of the gauge, I may not be able to do it at all without removing the gauge itself from the cluster. Sticking with the circuit boards is a known issue.

I'd almost recommend if someone has a crappy worn-out dash cluster to donate, I'd use that. When I send it back, you should be able to transfer all of the wiring, bulbs, and connectors to your own dash cluster.

I've toyed with the idea of buying a used crappy dash cluster for this reason...

 
It will be very interesting to see what Midlife comes up with. If we could only get the dash light to be brighter.

 
Your right about the dash lights being way to dim, I do not know how we drove these cars at night back then. May be mid life has a simple fix for this as well.

 
Your right about the dash lights being way to dim, I do not know how we drove these cars at night back then. May be mid life has a simple fix for this as well.
No simple fix, my friends, using stock components. Voltage is lost between the battery and the headlight switch, between the headlight switch and the fuse box (even with fully rotated), between the fuse box and the lamp sockets.

There's a fix for full intensity by running the lights off of a relay, but there would be no dimming effect available.

 
Midlife

Is it a poor design of the 71-3 dash lights being dim or a result of time and voltage drop as you stated?

I had no issues with the dash lights on my 69 in the 80's wondering if those cars have the same issue now?

The relay fix supplying full battery voltage to the dash lights would be a great fix I think and If I drove the car

at night much I would consider that!

Thanks for the thought!

 
Dim dash lights have been complained about since 1964.5...

One thing one can do to help improve the lighting is to bend the gauge faces back from the front a bit, allowing more light to leak in front of the gauges. Of course, changing over to LEDs, removing the diffusers, etc. also help.

 
Is there a specific brand of LEDs you would recommend?

Thanks Mark

 
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