429/460 Spark Plug Engine Decider

I know some have covered this but i was putting the new spark plugs in today and decided to record it. I have been asked numerous times on here and my Facebook page about how difficult it is to reach and replace spark plugs in a 71-73 Mustang when doing a swap to a 385 series motor like my 521 stroker motor. The video is a little long but i would like to point out that i have a lot of stuff removed from the car while doing this.

The hood is off, the strut tower braces are off, and i have removed my carbon canister and A/C vacuum canister. I haven't yet fired this up yet but am pretty close to finishing it. I imaging that when i put the hood and shock tower braces back on it will make it a little more difficult to see what is going on but its still doable. I don't plan on replacing the carbon canister and vacuum can but the hood and tower braces will be put back on. I would like to also point out that i am using the Crites headers and motor mounts on my set-up which i had ceramic coated.

As some have mentioned before the drivers side area is a little tighter between the tower and engine but i was still able to use an ordinary non-swivel socket wrench and spark plug socket.

[video=youtube]


P.S. please disregard my ugly mug in the valve cover and all the wiring sticking out everywhere. I'm still in the process of wiring up all the new electrical accessories, and yes the valve covers are not yet secured to the engine. Still need to check and adjust the valves. And this is my first time using this new HD Cam and didn't like any of You Tubes music so its a silent film.

Hi that's a big motor like it doesn't matter that it's silent [WINKING FACE] Regards DK73

Deffently a monster.. That's a tight engine bay, but it looks like it's possible, takes some time, but it's worth it..

That uses the current-day, aluminum Super Cobra Jet heads, correct?

Out of curiosity, how is the clearance between the valve cover and the master cylinder? Does the Wildwood oval master help? The last time I saw a stock master next to one of these (on a disastrous project car), it was within a quarter inch from the valve cover.

I've always wondered how folks get around this with this particular head/valve cover combo since then.

-Kurt

My 71 429 is easy to change plugs on...only the back drivers side is a little cramped, but even that one is no big deal.

I use a sparkplug socket with the hex end on it with a box end wrench to get to the 'tight ones' on my '69.

Taking off the valve covers makes it a little easier but a lot messier (sp?).

Cudak888 this car still has the original 1970 cast iron Dove heads. To answer the brake cylinder question I have removed the vacuum booster from the car and made it manual disc brake due to the fact that I'm not going to be making much vacuum with the cam i chose. So the positioning of the master cylinder gives quite a bit of room and won't be hit if say my torque strap were to ever break and the engine twisted.

For those interested though in order to convert from powers to manual on the 73 you have to replace the entire brake pedal. The booster cars have a larger hole in the firewall with 4 mounting bolt holes for the heavy booster, and the manual cars had a smaller hole with only 2 mounting holes for the master cylinder and changes the offset for the brake rod from the pedal to the cylinder. Luckily I bought an original manual brake pedal from a donor car off eBay.

Duke, what a great post! Spark plug drill is not something to be scared as you can see from your excellent video. When your hood is on, you’ll only need to bend under the hood. I am using MPG head Service Montecarlo bar & brace quick release system, you can remove the MPG braces in 20 seconds. Export brace kit costs 199 bucks and with the t-handles add 60 bucks - I love the product, quick removal of braces.

http://www.mpgheads.com/export_brace.php

I am using the original brakebooster with original brake mastercylinder. With the Ford Racing “bath tub” tall covers it’ll be short of an inch clearance between the MC and VC – tolerable for sure. You can make some extra room for the sparkplug removal by choosing different valvecovers. If you’re not using a valvetrain stud girdle then I would look for different shape covers like these 30-40 bucks covers.

Moroso:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-68131/overview/

Trick Flow:

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tfs-44003/overview/

Or you can use Blue Thunder Auto Competition valvecovers, they’re super nice but the price tag is higher than the other above since running around $300.00US.

Here’s few shots with the Blue Thunder covers – it really gives you almost the same space as removing the covers and if any meaning it makes huge space between the MC and the cover - you could use wider MC if needed in some applications.





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edit: wrong link and forgot to mention the braces

Wow that is cool!! Regards DK73

Wow.. That doesn't seem difficult at all. I was really concerned I was going to have to pay someone an insane amount of money to simply change plugs and wires. I'm surprised you can even see the spark plugs. I can hardly see them only Windsor and Cleveland. It seems like those Blue Thunder valve covers with the MPG shock tower brace is an ideal setup.

Good post, and good points.

I would not have known about any potential MC interference with the left VC. The 460 that may end up in my car someday has aluminum CJ/SCJ covers with spacers to clear roller rockers/girdle.

I'll definitely remember to keep an eye on this issue when the time comes, thank you!

Good post, and good points.

I would not have known about any potential MC interference with the left VC. The 460 that may end up in my car someday has aluminum CJ/SCJ covers with spacers to clear roller rockers/girdle.

I'll definitely remember to keep an eye on this issue when the time comes, thank you!

Click to expand...

I have the tall Ford Racing valve covers on my 460 and an original power brake booster and m/c and while it is close there is no interference.

I had also a stock MC and tall Ford Racing VC's and had no interference, not much space but enough - no worries about that. You can also lift the VC off without a swet.

There's a humongous space between the MC & VC and from here you can see the available space for the spark plug removal. I am using the original powersteering hoses and they are very long in my car, so you can allways move them away while changing plugs.



Duke asked about my March alternator bracket. March instructions says that you'll need to mount the alternator above the bracket. I wanted the weight of the alternator down and to get more cleaner looking enginebay so I dropped the alternator under the bracket. Very doable, but need to keep the adjusting rod long so the cooling fan of the alternator doesn't interfere with the bracket.



Adjusting rod can be mounted to the block with long enough bolt. I can't remember correctly the threat or what bolt I got, but I bought it from a local US-service, it was probably a hardened starter bolt of GM engine or similar... not sure. I could have made a nicer solid spacer for the installation but was limited on time. It worked then app. 6 years ago and still going strong.

Here’s few shots with the Blue Thunder covers – it really gives you almost the same space as removing the covers and if any meaning it makes huge space between the MC and the cover - you could use wider MC if needed in some applications.

Click to expand...

Love the look of the Blue Thunder covers, even if their main benefit is space.

I can envision them in Ford Blue on a hood-up sleeper. So beautifully built, yet they can blend in with the "factory" look (if you don't look too close).

-Kurt

Finmach, thank you very much for posting the alt pictures, I think I will be mounting my alt just like yours so I can use a shorter belt and not be interfering with my upper radiator hose.