Rear end rebuilders in San Antonio area

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71coupe

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
135
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Location
New Braunfels Tx
My Car
1971 mustang
Got my 8" out of my 1971 mustang. Now I'm looking for a rebuilder. U-joint broke, so that gave me reason to pull the whole rear end out...haha...besides I had one side leaking from axle seal already.

So figured I get the thing rebuilt.

Goal:

3.55 gears

Posi - detroit locker

Engine specs:

306

Thumpr Cam

Pert ignition

hyper pistons

Holley 4 barrel - double pumper 650

Long tube headers

2400 stall

fmx tranny

Car is just a "hot rod" no A/C, no heater - but wouldn't mind driving it to work on good days.

figured 3.55 is the way to go...was really contemplating 3.73..but, from what read, teh 3.55 is the best all around

Thanks in advance for your thoughts, suggestions, ideas.

 
I had mine rebuilt with Inland Truck Parts in Austin, rebuilt everything inside and change to 3:89 gears. They did a great job and has been around for along time. They can do what ever you need done, axles, transmissions, drive shafts and so on.

 
I'm just south of San Antonio but haven't had any rear end work done. I know quite a few car enthusiasts so I'll put out a few feelers and let you know if I run across any recommendations.

JHawk

 
I have a Detroit in my '80 CJ-7's rear axle, and absolutely hate it on street. They say it will only click and pop going around corners... yeah... not so much. Bang! and Pow! are more like it - and sometimes not while cornering... it'll just unload after you straighten out and are under acceleration (BAM!! sounds and feels just like when my transmission blew up at 70mph... scares the crap out of me every time, too). Not to mention the 'weird' feeling when letting out the clutch for the next gear, the whole back end of the Jeep feels like it's dipping down and to the driver's side under acceleration until the speed catches up (no axle wrap, either... that's been eliminated with a traction bar and it's a spring-under lift kit). That's all under the power of "only" 145hp the 258 (4.2L) I-6 puts out.

Just wanted to let you know what you're in for with the Detroit, just in case you don't already know.

 
thanks for info mister 4x4

I called a local diff rebuilder and he said he would use "true trac" guess this is better?

 
The Detroit True-Trac is the "Detroit-Lite" Detroit Locker. Less clicking & popping, and less dramatic unlocking/unloading of the locked-up spiders - you're still going to have some of the locker weirdness, albeit a lot less of it (probably).

I've never seen anybody mention it before, but have you considered going with an ARB Air Locker? Best of both worlds - locked up (pneumatically) when you want a locker, and fully unlocked when you want an open diff (for normal traffic conditions, etc.)

A True-Trac would be better for the street, IMHO. Can I ask why you're wanting a locker?

A lot of part time off roaders use ARB (air controlled) or OX lockers (cable controlled) in the front axles to return streetability to their rigs. A fully locked front axle absolutely kills your turning radius (as if bigger tires and lift don't already do enough), and having the open diff feature is huge for being able to turn with any kind of hope for a tight circle.

ARB and OX lockers are more expensive than Detroits, but they also offer the best of both worlds.

 
mister 4x4

correct me if I'm wrong...still learning here...but if I want posi-trac I need a true-trac locker.

posi > true trac means both wheels spin.

right now - I got 1 wheel spinning like hell and leaving 1 long black mark on the street - hahaha

 
A Detroit Truetrac is not a locker of any sort. It is a torque biasing differential, like the ones made by Quaife. They are awesome on the street and have no friction material to wear out like a limited slip. I have a Truetrac in my Mustang, but it is a garage decoration at the moment. On the other hand I have a torque biasing differential in my diesel pickup. It has had 130,000 hard miles on it and works exactly the same as it did new. They work like magic, and the gears inside look like the guts of a pencil sharpener. As for how they work, it is best to look at Quaife's website. The only downside is they won't do any good if one wheel is in a zero traction situation (like in the air). A true locker is a bad idea on the street. You most likely want a torque biasing differential or a limited slip. Both will get you two black lines behind your car.

Also, Currie enterprises will sell you a loaded 8" third member shipped to your door with whatever differential and gears you want in it.

 
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