351 C intake gaskets

Which is better? Valley pan or just paper gaskets? I'm putting new performer 4v on my motor. What is the "standard" method for good intake sealing?

Hi,

I used this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fel-Pro-Gasket-Valley-Pan-Embossed-Metal-Ford-Cleveland-4V-Each-MS96012-/331389493088?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d285a5f60&vxp=mtr

Omie01,

One of the main purpose of the valley pan is to prevent hot oil from slashing on the bottom of the intake manifold and heating up the atomized fuel/ air mixture. The cooler the fuel/air mixture, the better the combustion occurs in the cylinder. I would recommend using the valley pan gasket setup.

mustang7173

valley pan.

'test fit' it on your intake before installation. I had an aftermarket intake where one of the runners would hit the valley pan right in the middle. The result was I would go to install it and it would 'push' the valley pan gasket down just slightly but enough to cause intake leaks.

I struggled with this. If you talk to edelbrock they say don't use the pan. That the aluminum dissipates the heat. I didn't but have on ready to go on it I have issues.

Omie01

It is recommended to add dabs of RTV at the corners where the cylinder heads and block meet. Another issue is the back side rubber seal can slip out or squeeze out causing oil/vacuum leaks.

A great book on Ford engines performance.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/ford-performance-pat-ganahl/1003504632?ean=9781884089275

mustang7173

I would install per instructions. Use Edelbrock #7265 or Felpro intake manifold gaskets. Put gasgacinch gasket sealer on both sides. Make sure to remove pins from block. Use about 1/4" bead of RTV silicone on ends, no rubber gaskets they cause leaks. I have the same manifold & this is how I'm doing mine.

An aluminum intake manifold will move on the turkey pan due to the different expansion of cast iron, steel and aluminum. Because the steel surface of the turkey pan mates to the manifold it is difficult to keep it sealed. I've used Fel-Pro and Mr Gasket and like the Fel-Pro.

There's two ways to address the hot oil splashing. You can use a trimmed turkey pan with oil drain holes or paint the bottom of the intake manifold with several coats of white engine paint.

I agree with Edelbrock, the aluminum does a good job of dissipating the heat, right into the inside of the manifold and air/fuel flow.

I have some pictures someplace of a trimmed pan. Let me know if you want to see them.

One other thing, it is difficult the get the manifold on square and level. Put studs into the 4 manifold center holes, in the heads, to use for alignment, and then remove after you get all of other manifold bolts finger tight.

Don, what does the white paint do?

The paint provides some insulation. Plus it runs the oil off faster and seals any porous areas on the bottom of the manifold.

That reminds me of the inner lifter valley being painted with GLYPTAL 1201 RED ENAMEL to seal the porous metal.

Eastwood

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

mustang7173

I did not put the valley pan on my aluminum mainifold either..worked just fine...Just the nice Felpro Gasket set, you do not need the valley pan at all if you runing aluminum...And be super generous with the RVT on the corners of the mainifold..Or it will leak, first time i put mine on it leaked on the corners " and i thought i put too much RVT on there" lmao

The paint provides some insulation. Plus it runs the oil off faster and seals any porous areas on the bottom of the manifold.

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That's a good idea, I will try it.


Sorry Omie01, I didn't mean to take over your thread. I'm putting the same intake on my Mach too.

I have used Glyptlo? electrical paint on the bottom of my intakes with good sucess

I did not put the valley pan on my aluminum mainifold either..worked just fine...Just the nice Felpro Gasket set, you do not need the valley pan at all if you runing aluminum...And be super generous with the RVT on the corners of the mainifold..Or it will leak, first time i put mine on it leaked on the corners " and i thought i put too much RVT on there" lmao

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+1 on everything Mike said.

I used the Fel-Pro gasket set with the valley pan and no issues with it so far with it leaking oil or vacuum leaks. I used the pan because I did not want oil on the bottom of the manifold plus keeping that area cool. Here is what I did:

* Used copper coat on the paper gasket on the head side and let it cure overnight. I did this to ensure it didn't move while installing the manifold.

* Used 2 small studs, one on the front corner and another on the opposite rear corner for the intake manifold.

* Put RTV on both sides of the valley pan around all ports.

* Placed the rubber gasket on the front and back of the motor. RTV on both the bottom and top in each corner. I did not put RTV along the length of the rubber gaskets as the instructions said not to do so.

* Placed the valley pan on over the 2 studs, This will hold it in place while setting the intake on.

* Put on the intake bolts and tightened them down a little.

* Removed the 2 studs and put the manifold bolts on in their place.

* Torqued the bolts in the sequence listed in the manual. Did this in 3 stages.

* Let it sit overnight before trying to start the motor. I like to give the RTV time to cure.

Hope this helps.

Cool, thanks for all the replies, Lots of insight!!!

Is anyone here running an Air gap? I just bought one. Should I use the metal gasket in it as well?

Is anyone here running an Air gap? I just bought one. Should I use the metal gasket in it as well?

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Probably doesn't matter as much for that manifold. I used it because it keeps the bottom of the manifold from getting oil and sludge accumulated on it and I don't have the air gap. I am not using that so I get both benefits. Someone also mentioned just to paint the bottom of the intake you have.