Overhaul of a Ford FMX Transmission

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machmeter1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 21, 2011
Messages
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Location
Dayton Ohio
My Car
72 Mach 1 - sold
For two years I haver been working on my Mustang Mach 1.

The last weeks i spent most time repairing my FMX transmission.

First I purchased literature to get useful Informations.

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Next step-disassemble

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After basic cleaning of the major parts I started to disassemble the

Valve Body, front and rear servo.

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During dismantlement I made pictuers of every step. Otherwise you ll have a big puzzle. :huh:

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I cleaned all parts with cellulose thinner. Finally I used copressed air to get all dirt particles of.

Next step - disassemble the front and rear clutch durm.

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Inside this two parts are two aluminium pistons with a check ball on each. On the pistons are sealing rings. To get the pistons out of the drums, use compressed air. I changed all sealing rings.

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It s a gadget to get the piston with new sealing ring into the rear clutch drum. With Scotch tape I wraped the piston. After the piston was in positon, I removed the tape.

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Assembly of the rear clutch drum. Pictures tell more than thousand words...

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Important!!! Check the clearance between the pressure plate and the internal plate. About 1 mm is a good mediocrity. THATS JUST MY OPIONION!!!

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At least, the two thrust washers

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I installed new clutch discs. Before installing I soaked them for 20 Minutes in trasmission oil.

 
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Assembly of the front clutch drum...

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Like at the rear clutch drum, its important to have about 1mm clearance between pressure palte and the last clutch disc.


Next logical step-changing the metal seal rings on output Shaft and Sun Gear Shaft

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After checking the bush bearings, I decided to order a set of bearings.

Here to examples of worn bearings (Rear Extension Housing and Oilpump)

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Small things can breed big problems. In my case-a missing needle roller!!!

During disassembling my FMX I found out, that one needle roller was missing. In the past, an "expert" scamped on my FMX.

You can´t imagine how difficult it is, to get a needle roller or bearings in non metric dimensions.

15 phone calls with the leading companies in Austria, but not one positive answer.

In the end a friend found out, that the needle rollers on the U-joints of my MUSTANG are in same dimension. All I had to do - shorten them about 2 mm.

 
Did you have bad seals, or a bad pump? Most hard parts look good
Hi

I decided for a full restoration - No compromise

And I was right-a needle roller was missing and the bearings are badly worn.

kind regards

Wolfgang

 
Continued

One of the easiest way to get the bearings in their bearing seats, is to cool them. I put all bearings for some hours inside the freezer compartment.

The parts with the bearing seats I put into an oven.

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In a turnery I ordered "special tools". This peaces are made of aluminium, wich softer than brass. Thats important to prevernt damage during installation.

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Next step - assembling of the clutch units.

To fix the needle rollers I used vaseline.

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The two washers and the sun gear shaft are in place

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Ready for installation

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Next I took the transmission housing and inserted the front band. After the front band, followed rear band clutch unit, center support.

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At last the planet carrier

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More pictures

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Wow! You make it look so easy even a caveman could do it. My FMX is shot so I decided to put in a 5 speed I already have. But if it's really not that bad (or expensive) I may try rebuilding the FMX first. Here in the US the local shop wants $650 for a bench top rebuild.

Thanks for an excellent post and good pics!

 
Wow! You make it look so easy even a caveman could do it. My FMX is shot so I decided to put in a 5 speed I already have. But if it's really not that bad (or expensive) I may try rebuilding the FMX first. Here in the US the local shop wants $650 for a bench top rebuild.

Thanks for an excellent post and good pics!

Hi

I think 650$ are not much for a major repair. Just for disassebling (all parts, including the valve body and servos) I needed about 12 hours.

Another 8 hours to clean all parts.

2 hours to change the bearings

Another 12 hours to assemble the transmission.

I think for 650$ he will do just the most necessary.

so long Wolfgang

 
The following pictures will show you the result of my little porject.

I worked about one week on the transmission. The time i needed to collect informations and to read up on the subject is not included.

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The transmission housing and the oil pan I am going to paint grey. For the bellhousing and the rear housing I guess to take transparent varnish.

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Resume, the effort was worth while...

so long

Wolfgang

 
Thank you guys

Would be possible to give better and more detailed instructions. But anywhere for a sucessful overhaul its necessecary to inform yourself with the available specialist books.

May you do well...

so long

Wolfgang

 
Thank you guys

Would be possible to give better and more detailed instructions. But anywhere for a sucessful overhaul its necessecary to inform yourself with the available specialist books.

May you do well...

so long

Wolfgang
Thanks for the good post Wolfgang.

Do you have a picture of the side with the shifter linkage? Could you also give me the dimensions of your transmission? Overall length, case length and tail housing length.

I know my shifting linkage is different but I am trying to double check what else on this FMX taken out of a 69 LTD.

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Hi all,

I am also just rebuilding the FMX of my 71 Mach 1. I have a question to the guys who are already done with their rebuild.

I have taken apart the front and rear clutch drum to replace the frictions and steels with new Raybestos parts. When redoing the front drum I found that only 3 of the new Raybestos frictions and 4 Steels will go into the drum while 5 frictions were in there before. These were obviously slightly thinner. Both configurations, with 3 and with 5 frictions, accomplish the 0.01" clearance to the upper drum lid shoulder.

When I disassembled the drum with the 5 frictions and steels, there also was a wave washer under them. When I reuse the wave washer I can only put three frictions in as mentioned, when I omit it, 4 frictions and 5 steels go in.

Clearance okay.

I have studied some FMX exploded views from different issuers and some show the wave washer and some don't. Is the washer of any importance for the function of the transmission? Are three frictions sufficient for proper function of the trans compared to the five before?

Indeed different numbers of frictions are shown on drawings. Some show 4, some show 5, none shows three.

Any experiences?

Thanks.

Michael

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Wave washer from the front drum

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Assembly without the wave washer. Four frictions go in. Perfect clearance to shoulder of the lid plate. When the washer is in, only 3 frictions fit in.

 
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Thank you guys

Would be possible to give better and more detailed instructions. But anywhere for a sucessful overhaul its necessecary to inform yourself with the available specialist books.

May you do well...

so long

Wolfgang
Thanks for the good post Wolfgang.

Do you have a picture of the side with the shifter linkage? Could you also give me the dimensions of your transmission? Overall length, case length and tail housing length.

I know my shifting linkage is different but I am trying to double check what else on this FMX taken out of a 69 LTD.
Sorry for late answer. Was absent in this forum for long time. My transmission is stored in styria. Buisness is keeping me in vienna. On 23th of july I am going to styria.

I ll take the some measurements and post the informations.

Kind reguards

Wolfgang

 
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