Fuel Sending Unit Replacement DIY

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Joined
Jan 14, 2014
Messages
1,170
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Location
Martinez, CA
My Car
73 Coupe 351c
When I got this car a year ago the fuel gauge didnt work.

After a couple weeks of ownership it started working I think because I

cleaned the ground connection in the trunk by the latch.

A few weeks ago it stopped working and would only come up to E.

I got a replacement sending unit from a mustang supplier $30.

I unplugged the sender wire from old and connected to new and checked

the gauge with the float in different positions worked perfectly.

I disconnected the fuel line at the sender and drained the tank then

unlocked the retaining ring with a hammer and short piece of wood

dowel to eliminate the chance of a spark. loosened unit

and drained more fuel from tank until dripping then jacked up car a

bit on driver side to stop dripping fuel.

Funny the sock strainer was missing from the pickup tube perhaps

in the past it got plugged and someone put compressed air down

the line and blew the sock off?

Pretty strait forward to replace the unit only trick is to use a bit of

grease to hold the O-ring in place on the tank while fishing the new

unit in place.

The lock-ring that came with the new unit was cheap looking so I used

the old one and put a new length of fuel line on and job done.

Took abt 2hrs overall and how nice is it to know how much fuel is in the car!

Hope this helps somebody down the road.

Regards

Paul

 
Last edited by a moderator:
A lot of folks say to use a brass punch to rotate the retaining ring, as the brass won't spark and ignite the gas. I see nothing wrong with using a piece of stout wood instead.

 
When I got this car a year ago the fuel gauge didnt work.

After a couple weeks of ownership it started working I think because I

cleaned the ground connection in the trunk by the latch.

A few weeks ago it stopped working and would only come up to E.

I got a replacement sending unit from a mustang supplier $30.

I unplugged the sender wire from old and connected to new and checked

the gauge with the float in different positions worked perfectly.

I disconnected the fuel line at the sender and drained the tank then

unlocked the retaining ring with a hammer and short piece of wood

dowel to eliminate the chance of a spark. loosened unit

and drained more fuel from tank until dripping then jacked up car a

bit on driver side to stop dripping fuel.

Funny the sock strainer was missing from the pickup tube perhaps

in the past it got plugged and someone put compressed air down

the line and blew the sock off?

Pretty strait forward to replace the unit only trick is to use a bit of

grease to hold the O-ring in place on the tank while fishing the new

unit in place.

The lock-ring that came with the new unit was cheap looking so I used

the old one and put a new length of fuel line on and job done.

Took abt 2hrs overall and how nice is it to know how much fuel is in the car!

Hope this helps somebody down the road.

Regards

Paul
I started doing this job today and got as far as fitting the new sender unit.....then noticed the outlet pipe on the new one is pointing 90 degrees in the wrong direction!!!! So back to NPD tomorrow to exchange it and then hopefully fitted and away we go - I like the tip about the grease to hold the new ring in place!

 
I just did mine a week ago. I used spray adhesive on the gasket to hold it, works best if you stick it to the tank and not the ring then put a drop of lubricant on the other side- I just used a little spit. I used a brass drift, but hardwood should work fine, there are inner recesses to turn against that make it easier than trying to turn with the outer section of flange.

I started with a 1/4 tank or less and finally jacked the driver side up as high as my jack would permit and used a couple of jackstands as that level was still too high to remove it on level ground.

My sock was missing too. In my case I had thought that on since my initial start I had the fuel lines reversed in the engine compartment, the pump must have blown it off.

 
the stainless steel version has the tube routed correctly the steel version has the tube mounted the wrong way.

when calibrating the gauge you need to drain the tank as much as possible.

install the fuel sender, hook it up and put 5 gallons in the tank, the gauge should read about 1/4 tank.

if not you must drain the tank, pull the sender and bend the float arm and reassemble and retest.

 
the stainless steel version has the tube routed correctly the steel version has the tube mounted the wrong way.

when calibrating the gauge you need to drain the tank as much as possible.

install the fuel sender, hook it up and put 5 gallons in the tank, the gauge should read about 1/4 tank.

if not you must drain the tank, pull the sender and bend the float arm and reassemble and retest.
Thanks - went back to NPD this morning and bought the 'improved design" version that has the pipe pointing in the right direction!

Greattips here everyone - thank you!

 
:bravo: I'll be doing this replacement on my car next. I want to bring down the tank and clean it before firing my engine for the first time so I figure I would install a new one while it is down.

 
oh also,,,, as far as missing filters from the original senders, have a look really well inside the original tank, you don't want to leave the old filter sock bouncing around inside the tank.

 
it could be broken apart, the screen material falls apart and can clog up the new filter.

it can also knock around the tank and break loose rust that can clog the new filter.

if the original filter got clogged up then compress air'd blown into the tank then all that crud is sitting in there waiting to clog up the new filter.

basically when you fish out the old one you get an idea of the conditions inside the tank.

 
the stainless steel version has the tube routed correctly the steel version has the tube mounted the wrong way.

That is not true

Here is

stainless correct

steel correct

stainless not correct - well not correct for a 71-3 mustang

001.JPG

002.JPG

003.JPG
 
i bought my stainless sender about 6-7 years ago at that time, the stainless was correct and the standard steel was not.

made in china.

 
I have a large steel in-line filter between the tank and the pump located near the pump

then a glass in-line filter before the carb so if I have an issue I can look for fuel in

the glass filter.

IMO I didn't feel the need to root around inside the tank to find the old sock.

Paul

 
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Fitted the new sender tonight - first attempt and failed - had a leak. I had tried to use the old retaining ring. I guess the 'O' ring had not sealed properly somewhere or had moved out of position. So I drained the little fuel I had in (did the car jacked up to the side routine again) took the fitting out, cleaned and refitted this time with the new retaining ring and all was good. And the gauge looks to work too - wow!

 
watch for another leak from the electrical connection when you finish.

 
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