Sub-Frame Connectors

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EdM

Well-known member
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Jun 5, 2014
Messages
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Location
Between the Texas Hill Country and North Idaho
My Car
1973 Mach 1 Q code, a 427 Dart based Windsor, Pro Flo 4, Tremec 5 speed, A/C, 12.7:1 steering conversion, SoT coil over and Dakota Digital dash.
I have been looking all over the web for info. Round better than boxed, boxed better than round... I suspect that they all do the job. Which ones are least seen when installed?

 
I just put in the global west connectors in my car, very easy to install as long as you have access to a good welder. I don't mind the tubular look, but box might look a little more "stock". And I think they would both be equally effective!! Sounds like weld in is the only way to go! I have not driven my car yet with them so I can't speak about performance, but my car feels a lot stiffer!!

 
Square is going to look more 'stock' and you can probably tuck them up a little closer.

I run global west and love them.

Here is a pic, you can see where I actually used them as a slider when I ran over a curb (probably saved me a lot of body work). I know the underside is a greasy mess:



From the side, it's a little deceptive because the traction bars look like they are part of the subframe connectors, they are not.



Side pic, you can't really see them in this shot. Mostly I don't notice them.



 
I was leaning towards the GW's as the Tinman's require cutting into the front sub-frame. Probably not a big deal though. Appreciate the comments. Retirement and the Millermatic 211 await.

 
I have Global West's on mine as well. They tuck up nice, like will said:

420200_375279279149663_878008030_n.jpg


 
I am running a set from Laurel mountain mustang. They are the square ones. You can cut open the end of the frame and they slide nicely into the frame rails. I like the square tube ones because they look like they were meant to be there from factory. They tuck up nice and tight with the floor pans. They weld in really easy. Heres a link to them ....... http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/1971-1973-mustang-subframe-connectors

 
This might be a little off topic but of you added a tubular cross member between frame connectors rather than the convertible support plate would it do the same thing?

 
I have Global West's on mine as well. They tuck up nice, like will said:

420200_375279279149663_878008030_n.jpg
Mine are different than yours (see my pic). Your tube seems to come out to the side, mine came down (front mount). Maybe they are different for convertibles? You can see in my pic that a side output wouldn't clear the floor/pans/frame or whatever you want to call it.

 
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I am running a set from Laurel mountain mustang. They are the square ones. You can cut open the end of the frame and they slide nicely into the frame rails. I like the square tube ones because they look like they were meant to be there from factory. They tuck up nice and tight with the floor pans. They weld in really easy. Heres a link to them ....... http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/1971-1973-mustang-subframe-connectors
I used Tinman and they are very similar to Laurel Mountain. I agree they look like the car came with them. when you have them on.

 
EdM,

Either way, if that is the only option you ever install, the sub frame connectors would be the one to do. I have the bolt-on on my 1971 and my 1973 has the weld on. Worth ever penny!

mustang7173

 
I was an automotive tooling and stamping engineer for most of my working years. I wish someone would use the latest UHSS, Ultra High Strength Steel, to make the connectors. Most tubing round or square is just mild steel cold rolled. Square or rectangle is made from a round by roll forming it. Steel that is normally used for these is mild steel because it is easy to form and has a yield strength in the 25,000 to 35,000 PSI the DP 1000 steel has a yield of 101,526 PSI so nearly three times a much to yield the material. But boy is that stuff difficult to form. We made frame rails for BMW and was working on tooling for the Nissan. You bend it once and that is it if you try again it will break. Even if the went to HSLA, High Strength Low Allow they could double the strength with the same weight. They are using these materials in new vehicles to reduce the weight but keep the same strength. A body shop will never be able to repair some of them.

David

 
I have Global West's on mine as well. They tuck up nice, like will said:

420200_375279279149663_878008030_n.jpg
Mine are different than yours (see my pic). Your tube seems to come out to the side, mine came down (front mount). Maybe they are different for convertibles? You can see in my pic that a side output wouldn't clear the floor/pans/frame or whatever you want to call it.
Yes, the tube comes out of the side on the front frame rail mount on mine - I hadn't noticed that yours were different. So, I guess that means maybe there are different models for coupes/fastbacks and verts, and that the ones for the verts might hang down just a little bit more.

That's awesome the way yours worked like "rock sliders," though. ::thumb::

 
I have Global West's on mine as well. They tuck up nice, like will said:

420200_375279279149663_878008030_n.jpg
Mine are different than yours (see my pic). Your tube seems to come out to the side, mine came down (front mount). Maybe they are different for convertibles? You can see in my pic that a side output wouldn't clear the floor/pans/frame or whatever you want to call it.
Yes, the tube comes out of the side on the front frame rail mount on mine - I hadn't noticed that yours were different. So, I guess that means maybe there are different models for coupes/fastbacks and verts, and that the ones for the verts might hang down just a little bit more.

That's awesome the way yours worked like "rock sliders," though. ::thumb::

I assume it comes out the bottom on the vert to clear the lower floor under the seat?

 
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I used the Tinman connectors. Opening up the backside of the front subframe rails was no big deal at all. Once installed they continue the "line" that the front subframe starts and that makes them look very factory. No additional clearance problems and they are handy for jacking. I am frequently tempted to put a bead of panel adhesive between them and the floorpan, but since I didn't clean the floorpan before installation, it seems sort of pointless.

 
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