Anyone Running a welded differential?

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Dec 21, 2013
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Location
Brier, Washington
My Car
1972 Fastback (Factory sprint, but now a bright red Mach 1)
351c 2v(big ol cam, holley dominator intake, roller set, edelbrock 4bbl)

fmx
I would like a Posi-trac 3rd member ideally, but budget always prevails and I have no idea where I can find a Posi for an 8 inch for a reasonable price.

I know that I can weld it up, but that is known to be terrible for handling. Anybody have a welded diff that can share their experience?

Thanks guys.:D

 
About 25 years ago I drove a 72 coupe for a while that my brother-in-law wanted to get rid of that had either a spool or welded spiders. I wouldn't let our son or nephew drive it due to the way it handled. It was difficult to turn corners when the pavement was dry, very difficult when wet, and nearly impossible to go around a corner while accelerating. All it wanted to do was go straight. We sold it, the last time I saw it the front end was damaged, so the new owner must not have been able to keep it on the road.

 
Race car stuff only, don't even consider it.

Detroit lockers and the "EZ Locker" variants are almost as bad. Spooky on the street.

 
Race car stuff only, don't even consider it.

Detroit lockers and the "EZ Locker" variants are almost as bad. Spooky on the street.

cheapest option is an 8.8 complete rear axle swap from an explorer. You should be able to buy one for $250
Some proffered options. Still fun, street-able and SAFE.

Ray

 
Hard to describe what a mechanical locker feels like to drive. "Harsh" is the term that comes to mind.

Best advise I could think of is to find someone that has one, either in a truck, Jeep, car, etc... and take a ride in it. Driving it would be better.

Then you'll know :D

I like the 8.8 idea for a street car if you can't find a complete bolt in 9".

 
Never run a welded diff on the street... because when they break they will shoot you either a hard right, or hard left depending on how it breaks.... I've saw it to many times on the drag strip....

 
Kid there are a lot of us that started where you are and have learned a few hard lessons. Better to wait and do it right than go for the cheap instant result. Welded diffs suck they chirp cornering parking try to drive you all over the place on ruff roads and the pain quickly over takes the cool factor in about a week. Cops will become your friend because a cop just has to wait for you to go around a corner even at subtle speed, chirp spin here's your ticket son. As mentioned Detroit lockers are beasty things very mechanical they ratchet and clunk and bang but are better than a welded diff. the explorer option sounds like a winner on a budget.

Here's a thought find a replacement, weld your diff just for the experience drive it around the block then do the swap

 
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Thanks for all the feedback! Off my list for this application, so it seems. I like the idea of an explorer 8.8 and I know I can get one cheap here but what mods are needed? I remember reading that it needed welded axle tubes, Shock mount fab work and a good alignment.

What else?

Thanks guys!

 
For the 8.8 you will need to cut off all the old brackets and weld on your new spring perches. The tubes don't have to be welded but I did mine just because of the power I was planning on throwing at it. You will need to have your driveshaft modified and balanced. And you will need to make a set of shock plates with the holes for your spring U bolts. If you can weld and fab its a pretty easy job. 1 or 2 weekends and a box or 2 of beer and your good to go. There are a few threads about this one here for more detail. Also the rangerstation.com has a good article about the 8.8 and what years are good. Most later model explorer 8.8's came with factory posi,3.73 gears, 31 spline axles, and disc brakes. You can usually pick one up at a wrecking yard for $250 or less.

 
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