Jump to content

Passanger side inner fender


Recommended Posts

Well, I got around to installing an NOS battery tray this weekend and found my rust free car is not quite rust free. The area below the tray is pretty well rusted out. I do have an NOS replacement inner fender skirt but no welding skills.

Just how big a job is this to turn over to a body shop? What type of questions should I be asking of them and what type of pricing is reasonable? What pitfalls should I watch out for?

If I leave it alone it will probably fine - for a while. But I know me and even if I sell the car down the road I would disclose this and take a hit on the price anyway so I would rather fix it right now and not worry about it.

And of course, if anyone is local to me with the skills I would rather pay a forum member then an "unknown"

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i unfortunately cannot answer all your questions.

 

I'm from NY and the costs are insane. labor last i looked was between 100-130$ an hour in many places, i outsourced my car to a shop in CT where at the time the rate was 35$ and hour later the shop went to 55$ an hour.

 

in most cases you will find much more rust damage then you previously thought. you can tell a shop just what you want and ignore other problems.

 

there are different methods for welding in new panels, the factory used spot welds, most body shops will butt weld, lap weld, or plug weld. plug welds look like a factory spot weld when dressed up. you want to look at previous work they did and see if you get a reference or not. some places put a new patch over old rusted metal that is bad. they should cut spot welds and replace the entire panel and not cut the rust out and then hammer a patch into the old panel, unless the old panel is worth saving which is rare.

 

in my case the shop used a spot welder and they went out the the way to try and match factory, over time it has not held up that well and i think know i would of been happier asking them to plug weld. the spot welds were kind of hit or miss in places and the reproduction panels obviously didn't fit like oem so there where finish issues that could not be avoided.

 

for me enough damage was found that i ended up having to replace the entire front clip. what started as a much more simple job thinking we could get away with patches and some panel replacement turned out to be impossible. the more we peeled back the more problems we found i was in contact with the shop at least 2 times a week since i was 150 miles away.

eventually we both had to come together and decide to stop because it would of just kept going and going. what was suppose to be 3 weeks turned into 5 months, getting the parts was a major problem back then as many reproduction parts today did not exist back then.

 

now if you want to get into welding a battery tray is a great place to start. I began thinking i would do my own sheetmetal work and i bought a welder, but i just could never find time to practice and start cutting my car apart. in my case it was better i didn't because the work needed far exceeded my patients and skill.

 

you will want to inspect your frame rails, especially under the upper A arm of the front suspension, rott in that area is death for 71-73 mustangs.

to give you an idea my car the tops of the frame rails on both sides were gone.

you can see the carnage and rebuild here:

http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/72hcode/library/

 

my adventure cost me about 10,000$ the work was broken into stages with payment breaks and there was a LOT of fabrication that occurred to make parts that didn't exist at that time. plus sourcing and buying parts from all over the place

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i unfortunately cannot answer all your questions.

 

I'm from NY and the costs are insane. labor last i looked was between 100-130$ an hour in many places, i outsourced my car to a shop in CT where at the time the rate was 35$ and hour later the shop went to 55$ an hour.

 

in most cases you will find much more rust damage then you previously thought. you can tell a shop just what you want and ignore other problems.

 

there are different methods for welding in new panels, the factory used spot welds, most body shops will butt weld, lap weld, or plug weld. plug welds look like a factory spot weld when dressed up. you want to look at previous work they did and see if you get a reference or not. some places put a new patch over old rusted metal that is bad. they should cut spot welds and replace the entire panel and not cut the rust out and then hammer a patch into the old panel, unless the old panel is worth saving which is rare.

 

in my case the shop used a spot welder and they went out the the way to try and match factory, over time it has not held up that well and i think know i would of been happier asking them to plug weld. the spot welds were kind of hit or miss in places and the reproduction panels obviously didn't fit like oem so there where finish issues that could not be avoided.

 

for me enough damage was found that i ended up having to replace the entire front clip. what started as a much more simple job thinking we could get away with patches and some panel replacement turned out to be impossible. the more we peeled back the more problems we found i was in contact with the shop at least 2 times a week since i was 150 miles away.

eventually we both had to come together and decide to stop because it would of just kept going and going. what was suppose to be 3 weeks turned into 5 months, getting the parts was a major problem back then as many reproduction parts today did not exist back then.

 

now if you want to get into welding a battery tray is a great place to start. I began thinking i would do my own sheetmetal work and i bought a welder, but i just could never find time to practice and start cutting my car apart. in my case it was better i didn't because the work needed far exceeded my patients and skill.

 

you will want to inspect your frame rails, especially under the upper A arm of the front suspension, rott in that area is death for 71-73 mustangs.

to give you an idea my car the tops of the frame rails on both sides were gone.

you can see the carnage and rebuild here:

http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/72hcode/library/

 

my adventure cost me about 10,000$ the work was broken into stages with payment breaks and there was a LOT of fabrication that occurred to make parts that didn't exist at that time. plus sourcing and buying parts from all over the place

Thanks. I think we live near one another so I know our labor costs are outrageous around here. I am thinking that opening this can of worms might not be worth it. I could easily see this extending into a much larger project. I'll check around here but I'm not too optimistic about getting it done. If we run into each other I would love to hear your opinion on the rest of the metal . Thanks for your detailed response.


i unfortunately cannot answer all your questions.

 

I'm from NY and the costs are insane. labor last i looked was between 100-130$ an hour in many places, i outsourced my car to a shop in CT where at the time the rate was 35$ and hour later the shop went to 55$ an hour.

 

in most cases you will find much more rust damage then you previously thought. you can tell a shop just what you want and ignore other problems.

 

there are different methods for welding in new panels, the factory used spot welds, most body shops will butt weld, lap weld, or plug weld. plug welds look like a factory spot weld when dressed up. you want to look at previous work they did and see if you get a reference or not. some places put a new patch over old rusted metal that is bad. they should cut spot welds and replace the entire panel and not cut the rust out and then hammer a patch into the old panel, unless the old panel is worth saving which is rare.

 

in my case the shop used a spot welder and they went out the the way to try and match factory, over time it has not held up that well and i think know i would of been happier asking them to plug weld. the spot welds were kind of hit or miss in places and the reproduction panels obviously didn't fit like oem so there where finish issues that could not be avoided.

 

for me enough damage was found that i ended up having to replace the entire front clip. what started as a much more simple job thinking we could get away with patches and some panel replacement turned out to be impossible. the more we peeled back the more problems we found i was in contact with the shop at least 2 times a week since i was 150 miles away.

eventually we both had to come together and decide to stop because it would of just kept going and going. what was suppose to be 3 weeks turned into 5 months, getting the parts was a major problem back then as many reproduction parts today did not exist back then.

 

now if you want to get into welding a battery tray is a great place to start. I began thinking i would do my own sheetmetal work and i bought a welder, but i just could never find time to practice and start cutting my car apart. in my case it was better i didn't because the work needed far exceeded my patients and skill.

 

you will want to inspect your frame rails, especially under the upper A arm of the front suspension, rott in that area is death for 71-73 mustangs.

to give you an idea my car the tops of the frame rails on both sides were gone.

you can see the carnage and rebuild here:

http://s1031.photobucket.com/user/72hcode/library/

 

my adventure cost me about 10,000$ the work was broken into stages with payment breaks and there was a LOT of fabrication that occurred to make parts that didn't exist at that time. plus sourcing and buying parts from all over the place

Thanks. I think we live near one another so I know our labor costs are outrageous around here. I am thinking that opening this can of worms might not be worth it. I could easily see this extending into a much larger project. I'll check around here but I'm not too optimistic about getting it done. If we run into each other I would love to hear your opinion on the rest of the metal . Thanks for your detailed response.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There also a support piece under the inner fender, how does that look? The inner fender and the support are spot welded to the frame. We had the frame guy put the new inner fender in and he left the button welds undone while we tried to find a replacement support. We never did find one so we had to repair the original support piece

20zv447.jpg

29vdz6t.jpg

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/ezgallery.php?action=myimages&u=3961]My Mach[/button] [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=3961]Check out My Garage[/button]

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There also a support piece under the inner fender, how does that look? The inner fender and the support are spot welded to the frame. We had the frame guy put the new inner fender in and he left the button welds undone while we tried to find a replacement support. We never did find one so we had to repair the original support piece

20zv447.jpg

29vdz6t.jpg

 

Thanks. Is that only visible while the car is apart?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, just look inside the wheel well

[button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/ezgallery.php?action=myimages&u=3961]My Mach[/button] [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=3961]Check out My Garage[/button]

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will do. I guess I have to decide whether or not to touch this at all or just let it be for now an wait until such time that I am ready to potentially do the whole front end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...