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Mustang

Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2015
Messages
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Location
Washington
My Car
I have a 1973 Mustang Coupe that I am fixing up.
So, I have a 73' Coupe, it's a 302cid with a V8 in it. I have seen places say it has anywhere from 140HP to 210HP. Oh, and it has a 2 barrel carb. If anyone could help me know for sure that would be great, I want to know if some more power would really be necessary because it does not run to well yet.

Thanks,

Travis

 
Here are the specs

302 c.i. V-8 2V Carburetor

C.R. 9:5

Horsepower 140@4000

Torque 239@2000
Same motor i have, almost as much power as my cordless drill ,,::((

 
The key to making power is the heads. A big cam with factory heads and a 2-bbl intake will make no power. That motor with a factory cam but good heads and intake will make motor power (yet will still be limited by the cam).

 
Cazsper, i am willing to invest on heads cam carb and intake, i saw somewhere that Edelbrock makes a kit that includes, heads, cam and everything needed to make 350 hp, what you think about that set up? it is $2500 btw

 
350 hp out of a 302 makes me think you will have to wind it up a bit to get that power. Possibly not great low end. I honestly don't know.. If it's just heads cam and intake, I would also compare the cost of a set of AFR heads, that intake (probably a rpm or air gap) and whatever cam you're interested in. I'm thinking you won't be too off from the Edelbrock kit price and the AFR heads are better.

A little story-

I had a 393w in my '95 mustang GT with Edelbrock heads. Way under cammed so it would pass emissions in California. Anyway, on the dyno, it didn't make the power I had expected. Also, the Edelbrock heads were milled for higher compression (about 10:1 I believe). I was so pissed, I went out and got a set of AFR-185's (also considered a bit on the small side for a 393w. By changing nothing except the heads ( and on the same dyno) it gained over 40 hp to the wheels. Also, the AFR heads were not milled so ended up losing compression. I'm not saying AFR is the best (There's a lot of heads out there). Not am I saying Edelbrocks suck. I just know for me, AFR's worked out better for my street driven engines.

 
The key to making power is the heads. A big cam with factory heads and a 2-bbl intake will make no power. That motor with a factory cam but good heads and intake will make motor power (yet will still be limited by the cam).

350 hp out of a 302 makes me think you will have to wind it up a bit to get that power. Possibly not great low end. I honestly don't know.. If it's just heads cam and intake, I would also compare the cost of a set of AFR heads, that intake (probably a rpm or air gap) and whatever cam you're interested in. I'm thinking you won't be too off from the Edelbrock kit price and the AFR heads are better.

A little story-

I had a 393w in my '95 mustang GT with Edelbrock heads. Way under cammed so it would pass emissions in California. Anyway, on the dyno, it didn't make the power I had expected. Also, the Edelbrock heads were milled for higher compression (about 10:1 I believe). I was so pissed, I went out and got a set of AFR-185's (also considered a bit on the small side for a 393w. By changing nothing except the heads ( and on the same dyno) it gained over 40 hp to the wheels. Also, the AFR heads were not milled so ended up losing compression. I'm not saying AFR is the best (There's a lot of heads out there). Not am I saying Edelbrocks suck. I just know for me, AFR's worked out better for my street driven engines.
Went to a local speed shop today and found the kit above mentioned, to my surprise it was cheaper than any price online, i can get it for 1800 and change, it is made for low compression and the actual hp would be 330 to 340, forgot to ask if it was at the wheels or at the crank, even at $1800 plus @350 for the carburator and around $1000 for the mechanic,,,, we are talking about a lot of money here, i wonder how much a complete motor already built could cost me......

 
It's more than likely at the flywheel.. It's still pretty impressive. I'm wondering at what RPM range.. I would personally like a motor that made less power overall but more at low-mid RPM. Just me.

That sounds like a pretty good price.. Having a nice car is like having a stuck up girlfriend. They either cost you a lot to get or to keep...if not both. But if the body of your car starts to look a little shabby, it won't get offended if you have a little work done to it.

Anyway, you can always do what I did. Figure out what you want when it's done, make a lots if those parts, but them as you can afford them and pile them up till you have everything you need.

 
It's more than likely at the flywheel.. It's still pretty impressive. I'm wondering at what RPM range.. I would personally like a motor that made less power overall but more at low-mid RPM. Just me.

That sounds like a pretty good price.. Having a nice car is like having a stuck up girlfriend. They either cost you a lot to get or to keep...if not both. But if the body of your car starts to look a little shabby, it won't get offended if you have a little work done to it.

Anyway, you can always do what I did. Figure out what you want when it's done, make a lots if those parts, but them as you can afford them and pile them up till you have everything you need.
That is what i was thinking, buy everything you need one piece at the time, when time comes to put everything together you won't have to fork mout a bunch all at once, let the spending begun!!!

 
Pretty much. That's what I did. By the time I was done, I was able to swap to 4-wheel disk Bear brakes, currie 9 inch, full suspension, TKO-600 swap (from a c4) and a 393w with AFR heads and an Air gap intake. It can be done..

 
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