Lubricant/Radiator/Brake Flush/Transmission Flush

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Joined
Dec 17, 2013
Messages
435
Reaction score
14
Location
Houston,Tx
My Car
1971 mustang Mach 1, 429CJ, J Code SOLD 3/2016

1971 Boss 351 Mustang
Medium Yellow Gold
From Kim Miller Collection
First a little history. My car was restored around 2000/2001 (not by me) and was purchased by me in December 2013. I did not receive any receipts or any documentation on what maintenance had been done on the car since it was restored. I was given one receipt which shows someone spent around $800.00 on a new exhaust system from the exhaust manifold back.

I would like to have the brake system flushed, radiator coolant flushed, power steering flushed, automatic transmission flushed, and the rear end oil changed.

I would like to use synthetic oils and synthetic brake fluid if that is not a problem. I have read that synthetic/silicon brake fluid is not good for old car like ours and will cause leaks. This is all opinions on the internet which I have found to be both for and against.

Here are my questions:

1. Can I flush and refill the brake system with synthetic brake fluid such as Lucas Synthetic Brake Fluid? Should I use DOT 3 or 4?

 


2. I know I can't use a anti freeze designed for new cars. What brand of anti freeze would you use? I would also put Lucas Super Coolant in as well.


 


3. For the power steering flush I would like to use Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners which is a synthetic fluid. Would there be a problem with this in an old car?


 


4. For the automatic transmission I have no idea if synthetic fluid would be better or should I stick with a standard Ford Type F transmission fluid?


 


5. Also do not know what to replace the rear end oil with. I was told when I bought the car that it has a Detroit Locker and not the Trac Lock that the car came with. Not sure who or why this was done, again NO HISTORY was passed on to me. I know it is a Locker because of the clicking and the action that goes on when I turn a corner. What would you recommend for this?





I truly respect all the expertise on this site and the level of dedication people have here. I want to take care of my car and want to do what is best for the car. I might point out that my car had 750 miles on it when I got it. I do drive it and enjoy it like it should be enjoyed. It now has about 1500 miles on the clock now.

 
First a little history. My car was restored around 2000/2001 (not by me) and was purchased by me in December 2013. I did not receive any receipts or any documentation on what maintenance had been done on the car since it was restored. I was given one receipt which shows someone spent around $800.00 on a new exhaust system from the exhaust manifold back.

I would like to have the brake system flushed, radiator coolant flushed, power steering flushed, automatic transmission flushed, and the rear end oil changed.

I would like to use synthetic oils and synthetic brake fluid if that is not a problem. I have read that synthetic/silicon brake fluid is not good for old car like ours and will cause leaks. This is all opinions on the internet which I have found to be both for and against.

Here are my questions:

1. Can I flush and refill the brake system with synthetic brake fluid such as Lucas Synthetic Brake Fluid? Should I use DOT 3 or 4?

 


2. I know I can't use a anti freeze designed for new cars. What brand of anti freeze would you use? I would also put Lucas Super Coolant in as well.


 


3. For the power steering flush I would like to use Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners which is a synthetic fluid. Would there be a problem with this in an old car?


 


4. For the automatic transmission I have no idea if synthetic fluid would be better or should I stick with a standard Ford Type F transmission fluid?


 


5. Also do not know what to replace the rear end oil with. I was told when I bought the car that it has a Detroit Locker and not the Trac Lock that the car came with. Not sure who or why this was done, again NO HISTORY was passed on to me. I know it is a Locker because of the clicking and the action that goes on when I turn a corner. What would you recommend for this?





I truly respect all the expertise on this site and the level of dedication people have here. I want to take care of my car and want to do what is best for the car. I might point out that my car had 750 miles on it when I got it. I do drive it and enjoy it like it should be enjoyed. It now has about 1500 miles on the clock now.
1. I used synthetic brake fluid for a while many years ago. The + is it is not hydroscopic like dot 3 or 4 and won't harm paint. The - is a softer pedal feel. I use DOT 4 due to higher dry and wet boiling temperature.

2. Use the older Inorganic Acid Technology, IAT, (Ethylene Glycol) based products it will be green for sure but don't go by the color. Zero original is one example that is correct. Do not use any Organic Additive Technology, OAT, (Propylene Glycol) based product. Just read the label carefully. Do not use tap water, do not use the "pre-mixed" type (it uses tap water). Use distilled water and the mix ratio of your choice up to 50/50 in very cold conditions. The more anti-freeze you add the less effective additives such as water wetter and super coolant are.

3. While all I've ever used in the Ford power steering systems is type F, I've heard reports of non-type F working fine and others reporting problems (noisy and foaming). That may depend on the unit being original or rebuilt, I don't know.

4. The transmission is much the same case as the power steering. In this case I do know that if it is original use type F. If it is rebuilt with modern clutches and bands the proper synthetic is fine. My rebuilt C6 has Amsoil super shift synthetic in it and has no problems.

5. Eaton specifies GL-5 conventional lube without friction modifiers (no clutches). The viscosity depends on use and temperatures (75W90 or 85w140). I have no idea why they specify conventional lube and not synthetic other than the additive package in synthetic may be viewed as a potential, if not proven, problem. This was the case for many years with cam manufacturers and OEM car makers.

Good luck with your quest for reliable enjoyment. Chuck

 
All brake fluids are synthetic (and not to be confused with silicon, which has other problems), DOT 4 has a little higher boiling point. The Lucas brake fluid should be a good product, everything of theirs I've tried have been good. Here is a good article:

http://www.tbmbrakes.com/silicone_brake_fluid_vs__conventional_brake_fluid

I still like Prestone 50/50 premixed, or Prestone mixed with distilled water. If you have an aluminum radiator you might want to think about the extended life antifreeze. However, I am intrigued by Evans waterless coolants, especially the classic car formula, a little pricy, but probably worth it in the long run.

http://www.evanscoolants.com/evans_waterless_engine_coolants_faqs.html

I believe the Lucas power steering fluid should be OK, and something I have considered using. They claim it's compatible with all power steering systems.

Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil all make a synthetic Type F fluid (which doesn't have friction modifiers). Amsoil says theirs is suitable for street rods.

For the Detroit Locker you don't have to worry about special additives, I use 85W-90 Royal Purple in mine.

 
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Personally, I don't use any additives in anything.

I feel, for the most part (not always) that they are snake oil.

I've had some local dirt trackers use the Water Wetter in the cooling system... no change. The biggest difference was in PROPER air control (fan shroud) in their cars. If your car overheats there is usually an underlying problem that snake oil won't fix. Drain, flush and refill every few years and you'll be fine. I've never used anything fancy, just off the shelf stuff. Sure, distilled water probably is best but I don't always use it to cut. I am in the process of redoing the Tiger's cooling system due to some failed solder joints on the original rad and 2 small fatigue cracks in the expansion tank that have been there for at least 15+ years. The system has no major corrosion in it. It is a 1966 vintage.

Basically, old skool Ethylene glycol based, no problem.

Propylene glycol based (ie. Dexcool), bad juju.

For the steering, I use whatever is at hand and have not had a problem in any car. I flush and fill almost every car I get, and find that the PS fluid is normally burnt to a crisp and FILTHY (I buy used cars only). Some systems I flush several times before the fluid will stay clean. Any new fluid is CHEAP for the job that it does.

Brake fluid is another story. Again, clean new sealed fluid is the key. I literally boiled old OE front brake fluid in a roadrace motorcycle once... What a thrill that was. It had absorbed so much water that the boiling point lowered. Even my daily drivers get flushed and new 3 or 4 goes in. Nothing fancy, no pricey name brands... with the exception of Dad's Tiger. It uses Castrol Girling fluid ONLY, since ANY other fluid ruins the British seals and o-rings in the system. And quickly at that. Apparently the Brits use their own recipe of rubber/neoprene in their seals. Figured that one out the hard way, too.

Rear diff... I'd use the old style 80/90 or whatever. You don't have clutches, only mechanical gears. My old Expedition (9.75" big axle) "required" the use of synthetic... Its clutches were grabby, so I flushed and refilled with Lucas synthethic... no change. So I added their additive, of course since they "recommended" it (*ahem - sales pitch BS), and... no change whatsoever. This was a rear with 125K on it. Sold it that way.

IMO...

New tech fluids certainly aren't a bad thing. They just aren't a necessary thing in all cases.

 
Thanks for the input. I am interested in finding the Evans Classic Coolant but nobody in the USA that I can find sells it. Anyone know where to get it? The website for it is in the UK.

 
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