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All,

 

I started to look into Interior door and rear window area water shields. So, I started off with the trusty forum here and could not find a single thread.

 

I would like to see what the forum members have used in the replacing or upgrading their door panel water shields. So what we typically have is

 

1: Driver and passenger door panel and quarter trim panel water shields made with heavy paper with a Black coating and attached to the doors with 3M 08051 Water shield Adhesive.

 

Water Shield Kit

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/watershield-set-1971-1973/p/WS10/

 

Adhesive:

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/watershield-adhesive-tube/p/AD8051/

 

Then I found this kit from Mustangs Plus.

 

http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/1971-1972-1973-Mustang-Coupe-Water-Shields.html

 

Quiet Ride Solutions Video

 

http://www.quietride.com/weather-shield.html

 

This kit looks like a real nice kit!

 

What you used? Please comment!

 

mustang7173 :D

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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I researched this

 

Its "Beltline Weatherstripping"

 

On the interior side the factory stapled it onto steel so to put the

new piece on you will have to pre-drill and use #6 countersink type stainless screws.

 

On the exterior side I believe there is a screw at each end and clips in the center.

 

If you have wore out window regulators plan on changing them as the new parts

will really put the pinch on the glass and you will have to "help" the windows roll down.

 

IMO new weatherstripping and regulators a pkg deal.

 

Beltline weatherstripping 4 pcs $85 Ebay

Regulators $65 ea Rock Auto

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I've used 3M Strip Caulk #8578 to adhere the water shields. You don't need much so stretch it thin and use it sparingly. The stuff is very sticky, but lasts forever. However, if you ever have to remove the water shields to adjust something inside the door, the paper has a tendency to rip where attached. If you use a blow dryer and gently heat things up just a bit, it makes it easier. I always have the strip caulk laying around for various uses such as putting a little bit on tail light studs or trim molding studs to create waterproof gasket.

 

Dynomat - used for inside the door attached to the exterior skin. Really quiets things down. Expensive, but proven. Also has a layer of material similar to the strip caulk that makes it stick pretty much forever.

 

Back in the 70's before you could buy reproduction water shields you could use heavy plastic sheeting cut to size. No one would see it and it worked just fine.

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I have the CJ Pony water shields, but have not installed them yet.

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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All,

 

I went and purchased the Quiet-ride solutions kit from Mustangs Plus. As per my original thread, I like the way they use the," double-sided foam tape around the perimeter of the door" process. To me, I can replace the double-sided foam tape anytime. Yes, You can use double-sided foam tape probably on most of the water shields.

 

mustangs7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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i can tell you that that glue:

http://www.cjponyparts.com/watershield-adhesive-tube/p/AD8051/

 

Sucks!

 

its like rubber inner tube repair glue in that it like has to dry and get tacky and then the stuff never bonds right.

use the 3M strip chalk like Bill73Ragtop recommended.

 

you just use a tiny thin amount of it and save yourself grief down the road.

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72HCODE,

 

Yes,when I saw that 3M tube, I said, "really, that looks like it would be real nasty stuff to work with!" . Glad to see some responses that will help in determining what is a good solution.

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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  • 2 years later...

Has anyone tried using Velcro in random spots to attach the water shields? I'm thinking about trying that to facilitate future removal.

 

 

20180410_125254.jpg

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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I cut some wrapping plastic sheets we had in the kitchen and glued them with sealant, i think it was seam sealer. I cant remember what exactly were these sheets but i remember they looked thick enough for the application.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I'm just going to use black duct tape. That should make for easy removal.

Mike AKA Ole Pony & Rare Pony
Our current Mustang garage/driveway
1973 Mustang Convert - Bought in 1974 - Still have it!
2004 Mach 1 Oxford White Auto, Bought Sept 06

20180127_082009.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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Found a picture of what I did.

Edit: I also added Dynamat on the inside of the body panels and along the wheelwell behind the watershield, but only on the vertical surfaces. Not at the bottom horizontal surface.

 

20160328_232722_resized.jpg

20160929_171923_edit2_small.jpg

 

1971 M-Code Mach 1 w/Ram Air, 408 stroker, 285/291 0.558" roller cam, Blue Thunder intake, TKO600, Hooker headers with electric cut-offs, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

Strange center section with Truetrac, 3.5 gear and 31 spline axles, 4-wheel disc brakes

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I also used the 3m Strip Caulk. Looked to be the closest to the original material used. Have not had to remove yet, but will use tony-muscles idea of the hair dryer.

BKDunha

72 Mach 1 H-Code (Concourse driven restoration)

67 S-Code Factory GT with 4-Spd

68 Mercury Cyclone (Pro-Street project)

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Used originals with black cloth tape the same way as they were attached originally.

DSC_0272.jpg

 

DSC_0258.jpg

1973 H Code Convertible - Medium Copper Metallic - June 8, 1973, Built Ford Marketing Sales Vehicle

DSC_0266xsm.jpg

satellite.png Proud Space Junk Award Winner!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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