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When a 1968 Plymouth Satellite 4-door enters your life...


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Good news today. Intake bypass nipple arrived and I had time to get the engine to TDC at the compression stroke, so both distributor and bypass hose have been installed.

 

That said, Felpro's master gasket kit had the wrong distributor O-ring in the kit. I couldn't get the distributor seated - not even with some light taps from a rubber mallet.

 

I happened to have a genuine Mopar distributor O-ring spare left over from my '98 Dodge Ram Van (the Magnum 3.9), and sure enough, the thickness of the Mopar O-ring is smaller. Small enough that the Felpro O-ring had a line cut around its entire diameter from my attempts to seat it.

 

By comparison, the Mopar O-ring allowed the distributor to slip in with no more than the light pressure one would expect. Feels nice and snug.

 

35b81ew.jpg

 

dep7bo.jpg

 

2nt8xmb.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Kurt I really enjoy following along on this build. Even though it is a Mopar, it is nice to see how you work each problem as it arises. It is unfortunately the nature of the beast with this kind of swap, but it would be nice to Not have any issues.

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Ok, couple of updates. First off, a decent photo of the dizzy (which looks pretty nice considering its history) and its cap (which looks fantastic):

 

30bk2lk.jpg

 

A daylight photo of the engine, for once:

 

beacur.jpg

 

And here's where it gets interesting. Since I did not have any 1970+ style front accessories, given the 1968 and 1989 donors, I ordered (the cheapest) 1970 SBM alternator bracket I could find off of eBay.

 

I test-fitted it today, and found out one of those nagging compatibility issues that nobody tells you on Magnum swap pages ("...everything else fits!"), and you don't find out until it's too late.

 

The problem is that the Magnum head protrudes farther than the original heads (a known fact), but this causes interference problems with the one-piece bracket brace at the back:

 

2w71ta1.jpg

 

99i2cj.jpg

 

hsp8qb.jpg

 

It's no problem for me once I chop it shorter and put it back together with the MIG welder, but it's something you don't want to run into if you don't have access to welding equipment - or a friend who welds for beer.

 

 

Kurt I really enjoy following along on this build. Even though it is a Mopar, it is nice to see how you work each problem as it arises. It is unfortunately the nature of the beast with this kind of swap, but it would be nice to Not have any issues.

 

Thank you for the kind words. Even though it is a Mopar, I like to think of it as an honorary member of the '71-73 club, seeing that so many '68-70 Belvederes and Satellites were chasing Eleanor in the original Gone in 60 Seconds. It's almost impossible to watch that film and not want to have the Mustang, a Belvedere, and one of those white Ford Customs!

 

I'd say this swap is going unbelievably well. I haven't run into anything yet that has caused a problem after the fact or required parts to come off after being installed under other parts. My previous research has served me well.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Modifying the bracket went well, if a bit messier in the back:

 

2welyqw.jpg

 

n14coi.jpg

 

Very tempting to get a nozzle with a pointed tip for the MIG welder, if such a thing exists.

 

It fits nicely, considering the accuracy needed to make sure the alternator's bolt lined up through the entire curve of the bracket. I installed spacers after mocking it up here:

 

xqardl.jpg

 

30szfyr.jpg

 

However, I'm still not sure if this will work with the 1989 4-pulley setup. Again, have to wait for the Sanden to arrive before I can figure that out. If I deem it wise, I'll extend the BPE brackets to move the alternator mounting up and outwards away from the cylinder head.

 

In other news, the Magnum exhaust manifolds I bought had a bung for an air injection pipe on the passenger's side. While it was easy enough to buy a Steiger Performance blockoff plate for it, it was a pain to find the gasket, Mopar #53010000. It's available, but try to find it listed in any parts store catalog. It doesn't come up under EGR or exhaust parts.

 

However, one eBay seller thankfully cross-referenced the Mopar number, and apparently the gasket is best known as an EGR gasket on 2004-09 Nissan Quests with a 3.5L V6, Airtex part number 3F1078. Seller gave these alternate part numbers as well: 14719-4S100, VG179, 70-1150, EVG175, 3F1228, 779-2681, FE337, E879, 2-2580.

 

Not a great picture, but the gasket is installed:

9ptd7m.jpg

 

I also found out that I bought the a 727 inspection plate instead of one for the 904. Anyone want to trade?

 

if615j.jpg

 

I re-installed the plug wires. Looks like a spaghetti factory, and I'm a bit ticked that cylinder #4's wire is too short (no matter what the wire combo) and the others are a bit too long. That, and they're that bright freakin' red - but I figure the used 7.5mm wires stand a slightly better chance of preventing crossfire than stock 7mm's.

 

I have, however, cooked up a great idea to route thee wires in a classic way, using the stamped Magnum covers. We'll see if it works.

 

9iqyba.jpg

 

And an overview shot, for the sake of it:

 

9aakpu.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I did not read the entire thread I don't have any Mopars but do have a few parts, lol. In a buy of a lot of parts there were a couple twin snorkel air cleaners that I was told came off police cars. I do not have the knowledge of what years or anything and would have to search the barn to find them since I have not laid hands on them since the 80's. Is that something that you need?

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I did not read the entire thread I don't have any Mopars but do have a few parts, lol. In a buy of a lot of parts there were a couple twin snorkel air cleaners that I was told came off police cars. I do not have the knowledge of what years or anything and would have to search the barn to find them since I have not laid hands on them since the 80's. Is that something that you need?

David

 

David, I'd be interested, but to be entirely honest with you, you can probably make a killing that I don't have on eBay if it's a 1970's 340/360 unit.

 

I haven't seen any of the '80s Diplomat dual snorkels on eBay, so I have no idea what one of those would be worth.

 

Still, I'd be more than willing to hear out the price and see a photo, as I'd LOVE to top this engine up with two manly looking snorkels up there. Have loved the look ever since seeing the 5.0 Foxbodies with the setup.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I did not read the entire thread I don't have any Mopars but do have a few parts, lol. In a buy of a lot of parts there were a couple twin snorkel air cleaners that I was told came off police cars. I do not have the knowledge of what years or anything and would have to search the barn to find them since I have not laid hands on them since the 80's. Is that something that you need?

David

 

David, I'd be interested, but to be entirely honest with you, you can probably make a killing that I don't have on eBay if it's a 1970's 340/360 unit.

 

I haven't seen any of the '80s Diplomat dual snorkels on eBay, so I have no idea what one of those would be worth.

 

Still, I'd be more than willing to hear out the price and see a photo, as I'd LOVE to top this engine up with two manly looking snorkels up there. Have loved the look ever since seeing the 5.0 Foxbodies with the setup.

 

-Kurt

 

I will look in the barn and see if I can locate. I had some chrome ones for 442 also. Got them all from a junkyard the had to close and be cleaned up and went by the last couple days and took lots of stuff hanging on the walls. Baseball fields and park there now. My dad's 1935 Ford Deluxe Roadster was parted out there it had a Columbia two speed rear and V-8 with special factory chrome spoke wheels. A local business owner ordered it new and my dad got it from him use to win lots of street races with it back in the 30's. That is one I wish he had put in the barn for sure.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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Slow day, but I was able to get an M-body upper radiator hose to fit the KKS aftermarket radiator. I gave the parts store an '89 Diplomat w/318 as the source car.

 

Unlike a '70 Satellite hose, this one kinks downwards to meet the slightly shorter radiator. I did have to cut it short at the radiator end:

 

2s156o2.jpg

 

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Comes close to the BPE brackets, but not as close as it appears. An aluminum thermostat outlet (already ordered) ought to take care of it:

 

246noed.jpg

 

I've also figured on using a 1969-and-up one-piece power steering high-pressure hose instead of the ridiculous two-piece 1968 unit. The fitting on the P/S pump will probably need to be swapped, but that shouldn't be difficult - if I can find someone selling the flare-to-1/2" SAE adapter for less than a ridiculous $23 as a "Mopar" part.

 

I will look in the barn and see if I can locate. I had some chrome ones for 442 also. Got them all from a junkyard the had to close and be cleaned up and went by the last couple days and took lots of stuff hanging on the walls. Baseball fields and park there now. My dad's 1935 Ford Deluxe Roadster was parted out there it had a Columbia two speed rear and V-8 with special factory chrome spoke wheels. A local business owner ordered it new and my dad got it from him use to win lots of street races with it back in the 30's. That is one I wish he had put in the barn for sure.

David

 

The shame of it is that we can't save them all - one man can only do so much.

 

I've actually considered what would happen if my little That '70s Car actually did succeed as a web show. Even if one had an entire shop to his/her disposal, doing this full time isn't really possible on more than 2 cars.

 

That said, thanks so much for looking. Let me know if you find anything.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I did not read the entire thread I don't have any Mopars but do have a few parts, lol. In a buy of a lot of parts there were a couple twin snorkel air cleaners that I was told came off police cars. I do not have the knowledge of what years or anything and would have to search the barn to find them since I have not laid hands on them since the 80's. Is that something that you need?

David

 

David, I'd be interested, but to be entirely honest with you, you can probably make a killing that I don't have on eBay if it's a 1970's 340/360 unit.

 

I haven't seen any of the '80s Diplomat dual snorkels on eBay, so I have no idea what one of those would be worth.

 

Still, I'd be more than willing to hear out the price and see a photo, as I'd LOVE to top this engine up with two manly looking snorkels up there. Have loved the look ever since seeing the 5.0 Foxbodies with the setup.

 

-Kurt

 

I will look in the barn and see if I can locate. I had some chrome ones for 442 also. Got them all from a junkyard the had to close and be cleaned up and went by the last couple days and took lots of stuff hanging on the walls. Baseball fields and park there now. My dad's 1935 Ford Deluxe Roadster was parted out there it had a Columbia two speed rear and V-8 with special factory chrome spoke wheels. A local business owner ordered it new and my dad got it from him use to win lots of street races with it back in the 30's. That is one I wish he had put in the barn for sure.

David

I did go to the barn but could not see the Chrysler air cleaners. The Olds was there. I did find another long console I forgot about, lol. Also found a box of models for 20th. ann mustang still in box never opened I think there was 10 of them put one on eBay, lol. Every time I go in there I find something I forgot about. I am sure they will turn up as I go deeper into the hoard.

David

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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I did not read the entire thread I don't have any Mopars but do have a few parts, lol. In a buy of a lot of parts there were a couple twin snorkel air cleaners that I was told came off police cars. I do not have the knowledge of what years or anything and would have to search the barn to find them since I have not laid hands on them since the 80's. Is that something that you need?

David

 

David, I'd be interested, but to be entirely honest with you, you can probably make a killing that I don't have on eBay if it's a 1970's 340/360 unit.

 

I haven't seen any of the '80s Diplomat dual snorkels on eBay, so I have no idea what one of those would be worth.

 

Still, I'd be more than willing to hear out the price and see a photo, as I'd LOVE to top this engine up with two manly looking snorkels up there. Have loved the look ever since seeing the 5.0 Foxbodies with the setup.

 

-Kurt

the dual snorkel, got so much crap in an overbuy, may even have one of them as snorkels shorter to be able to put down a

Monte Carlo Bar as I have a functional Ram Air set up will not fit over original snorkel then figured would give me more air but research says NOT. So, looked went ahead on this Thursday replacing my 2bbl intake manifold to a more generous 4bbl Performer Air Gap intake manifold set up for my existing MPEFI and since have botched up chance w/the bar in its proper location w/out customizing to extend it as now an AC pump blocks its position. Why I chose the pic. ie, so much modifications like threading a needle-the hole in the middle of that spiral-the work asking for problems also like traveling into the Twilight Zone(if you remember the beginning of that show w/Rod Serling, that spiral in a dark void of space.LOLlollerz

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Van starter and starting solenoid cable were cut to length, a new end soldered on, and the cables wrapped for looks and neatness. The starter end has both cables fused to match the mini-starter, so I figured it would do well. Torched the smaller wire a bit, but it'll do:

 

201jdy.jpg

 

At the solenoid below the bulkhead - the brown solenoid wire (from the van) was also soldered with a different connector:

 

2n7395w.jpg

 

In other news, my thermostat water neck arrived, but the thermostat sits in the thing loose. The designers of this thing can't expect me to mill the bottom of it to spec...or do they?

 

2efnocz.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Now, speaking of 'solenoids', there is this one was told was needed to maintain the idle, as on the side of the AC unit which when I got the EFI installed, the stang did not have AC so the EFI unit I ordered at the time, never thought of this part. (with Holley Avenger MPEFI for the Cleveland does not come with the solenoid with the kit, however, heard as an extra item). With AC in any of your vehicles, might know where I am coming from. Tried to get away with just increasing idle from 8-9,000rpms to @ 10.5,000 rpms and created a wear factor on the oil distribution system, ie, increase oil pressure from 55 lbs to 72 lbs.

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My 1970-style power steering hose arrived - an Edelmann 70344 for a 1970 Coronet/Belvedere with a Saginaw pump. $18 and change from Amazon. I had to relieve one of the bends in the pipe a bit (probably because of the lower '89 Ram Van/Ramcharger style PS bracket), but otherwise it'll be a perfect finished fit once the adapter arrives for the steering box end:

 

9rk484.jpg

 

Now to find one of those stinkin' little finned power steering coolers. The ones used on these Mopars are identical to those used on the '72-73 Mustangs.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Unfortunately, I consider myself lucky to have found the '89 engine in the junkyard, much less any older.

 

LKQ prices down here make eBay almost affordable too.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Another "one step forward, one step back" sort of day. My Summit carb arrived, and seemed to bolt in fine - until I realized the throttle linkage was binding on the huge chunk of aluminum cast into the left side of the M1 intake.

 

5nknsn.jpg

 

The nub of the throttle cable on the inside seen here was contacting the squared off part of the M1 casting.

 

20z1i0n.jpg

 

I propped the carb up on that cheap 1" spacer shown in the pictures...for now. Rather than grind or hack anything, I ordered a 1/2" carb spacer. Should take care of the problem and not look too out of place.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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More fun with Dick and Jane tonight, courtesy of the Mopar Performance P4876850 Magnum conversion throttle bracket, at right:

 

2vi318l.jpg

 

Granted, seeing as anything associated with a Mopar kickdown that is not cable operated bearing the name "Lokar" is suspect, I should have known that I was walking into uncharted territories here (not to mention that there isn't any record online of anyone actually trying to use this bracket on their Magnum conversion).

 

That doesn't mean I'm going to knuckle under that quickly. Someone at MP designed this thing to work (we hope), and I'd like to put the part to its use.

 

Problem #1:

The P4876314 bracket has provisions for a bellcrank pivot stud, but the original stud is swedged to the throttle bracket. It's not serrated and press-fit - trust me, it's impossible to push the stud out and reinstall it with a hydraulic press (ask me, I tried).

 

The new bracket is obviously designed for a press-in or bolt-in piece, but I don't know the part number to find it, and Googling has been of no luck (nobody else references this part other than a few retailers).

 

Question is: Did MP ever issue a manual for this stinkin' little part? I bet they didn't, and I bet they forgot the stud too.

 

2us7sl2.jpg

 

k9dzyp.jpg

 

Now if the stud doesn't show up, I can always cut the swedged end off the stud and weld it into the MP bracket - which is probably the only option, but I'm not going to take guessing as an answer until I've exhausted all possibilities (yes, even sending an email to MP - bet that'll help! :banghead:).

 

Which brings me to problem #2, which is the reason I suspect a manual might actually exist for this thing:

 

There is no indication which factory donor kickdown linkage (at the carb-to-bellcrank location) is supposed to be used with this piece. And, of course, this has been a black art mystery ever since Mopar ever invented the concept of designing a kickdown linkage that has a drawn reciprocation dingle arm built into it. In short, I'm left wondering whether I need a 340 kickdown arm at the carb, or whether I can stick with the 318 unit.

 

My guess is the 340, just by virtue of the MP conversion bracket's design vs. the stock 318 bracket vs. the stock 340. Almost certain the 318 arm would interfere with the throttle cable if mounted to the conversion bracket:

 

318 2-barrel Carter:

j8obog.jpg

 

30uzewn.jpg

 

340 4-barrel Edelbrock/Carter:

faucetpics832.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Almost seems like it would be easier to adapt a ford kickdown rod. :P

 

Nah, not with Lokar out there.

 

The stock setup drives me nuts though - someone designed that bracket to work with a certain combo of parts.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Seeing that kickdown issue kind of reminds me of the issue I had trying to make a tv cable work for a 700R4 on a 1968 GTO. I was cheap and did not want to buy a fancy aftermarket. So I got several brackets out of the junkyard and cut and welded to make one fit and still look stock. I have seen your welding work, you are pretty darn good and I think you could cut and refit those brackets. The end result would probably look as good or better than stock.

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Seeing that kickdown issue kind of reminds me of the issue I had trying to make a tv cable work for a 700R4 on a 1968 GTO. I was cheap and did not want to buy a fancy aftermarket. So I got several brackets out of the junkyard and cut and welded to make one fit and still look stock. I have seen your welding work, you are pretty darn good and I think you could cut and refit those brackets. The end result would probably look as good or better than stock.

 

Modifying the geometry of a Chrysler bellcrank kickdown by cutting and welding the rod at the carburetor seems to be regarded as something of a black art in the Mopar community. Some Mopar mechanics claim that they've never seen one modified from stock and work correctly.

 

At this point, I'm already willing to do the Lokar route (or rip off a cable from a modern 32RE or 46RE) for kickdown, as I've done enough research to be convinced that the bellcrank design is pretty much a load of unreliable bull to begin with.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I take it Ford engineering design issues (e.g. leaking cowl) have nothing on Mopar engineering design issues?

 

That's one of the oddities of both of my Mopars - zero cowl rot. At least, any that would cause leaking. The drain holes on each side of the cowl are pretty large, and allow water to drain easily even if clogged with lots of leaves.

 

I'm almost certain the big problem with Ford cowls was the seam sealer used on the cowl hat. Something about it absorbs water very readily.

 

That's not to say that there's a whole bunch of covered-wagon engineering on Mopar's part (examples: bellcrank kickdown, ballast resistor to coil, low amp alternators, ALT gauges instead of amperage). Not to mention questionable ECU quality. Say what you want, but I'm going to be running the Mopar dizzy off an 4-pin GM HEI module and Ford E-core ignition coil (which I hope to mount mount on the front of the cylinder head with a Magnum-era coil bracket, with the intent of making it look like a 1992-2003 Mopar coil).

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Couple of things tonight:

 

First, the BPE power steering fitting arrived today. Works well, and the setup looks as if it came from the factory. '70 Belvedere/Satellite hose is a nice clean fit, and reaches the lower 1989 Ramcharger/B-series Van P/S bracket without issue:

 

ifwdw1.jpg

 

2r4hfdx.jpg

 

And my M-body radiator shroud (#3869812) arrived. Apparently, I'm the only person on the internet talking about them, save for one thread at the FMJ forums:

 

14eb13s.jpg

 

2hwlbnl.jpg

 

And now comes to light some of the reasons why I may be the only one talking about them. Initial fit tests suggest this shroud is probably the only ideal one for the Chinese KKS aftermarket radiator and the van's substantial 20" 5-blade fan (EDIT: The hell it is. It won't fit), but there are a few issues - some minor, others a complete PITA:

 

2vmy2xs.jpg

 

29ok5dl.jpg

 

First off, the mounting holes on the shroud are about an inch higher than the holes in the radiator. Looks like a good excuse to put some serrated bolts to use, seeing that I spent so much time researching them for the throttle bracket.

 

Second, the lower radiator hose binds. Apparently, M-bodies use a different hose that does a little dance around the shroud. Dayco C70483 is the solution. Looks like I've already worked my way through two sets of hoses.

 

2ajygc3.jpg

 

5191866_dap_c70483_pri_larg.jpg

 

Close quarters with the PS pump snout, but safe:

 

20tnxft.jpg

 

This is where I'm a bit ticked off. The fit at the upper hose is such that it's getting pinched. I can remove some material, but there will always be contact and a snug fit:

 

r2m63q.jpg

 

The 20" fan doesn't look like that much of a tight fit against the top, but once the lower radiator hose problem is solved, the clearance will be notably smaller:

 

6pqlxe.jpg

 

Also got the original valve covers back from hot tanking. Doubt if I'm going to use them, but they sure look a heck of a lot nicer now:

 

ezn1np.jpg

 

2ibhndd.jpg

 

And in other news, I'm convinced the 340/360-style 4-barrel kickdown lever is correct. I've been looking at a few photos of small blocks with Thermoquads, and the bellcrank positioning is the same. Can't hurt to try. Anyone have an upper kickdown rod for such an application?

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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First - while looking for those radiator studs, I wound up finding a workable kickdown stud - a new repop of a Max Wedge crossram bellcrank stud:

 

MWPP.jpg

 

It's pretty much the same thing as the small block kickdown stud - with threads. Brewers Performance confirmed that the stud is 1-1/16" long (the same as the swedged SB piece) and should bolt right in the Mopar Performance Magnum bracket. If the threads are too small to fit snugly in the bracket, a captive bolt should center it.

 

As for actual work on the car:

 

1/2" spacer arrived today. The linkage clears the intake now, though the included carb studs were too short. Threw on these for the moment until I dig up a set in a suitable length:

 

2dm7fyo.jpg

 

And here's my little sacrilegious HEI unit beautifully hidden with a Designed2Drive heatsink adapter for Mopar distributors:

 

x639e.jpg

 

It looks great under the hood, in that it pretty much disappears!

 

6f369v.jpg

 

With a Ford E-core coil in place here (I hope to modify a Ford coil bracket to mount onto the original canister coil adapter), the HEI unit should be next to invisible:

 

35m19xy.jpg

 

2e0uzqa.jpg

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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