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When a 1968 Plymouth Satellite 4-door enters your life...


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Shopping list is getting shorter:

 

  • Sanden CP7H13 U7312
  • Kickdown from 4-barrel 360 (This is what it looks like)
  • Fan shroud (Mopar #P2998326)
  • 18" clutch fan (from junkyard)
  • Mopar air cleaner
  • Possible change of spark plug wires - the Accel ends do not fit tightly in the Borg-Warner distributor cap

 

Sacrificial anode radiator cap is on its way, along with a '70-style dual belt squareback alternator.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I had to clearance a drop base open element air cleaner with a ball peen hammer to work with my Summit carb on my F-350. A stock 1970 390 air cleaner worked fine, as did the reproduction "HiPo" air cleaner for a 60's mustang.

1973 Mach 1 Q code 351 4V, 9A paint, standard interior, 3.50 rear, C6 trans.

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I had to clearance a drop base open element air cleaner with a ball peen hammer to work with my Summit carb on my F-350. A stock 1970 390 air cleaner worked fine, as did the reproduction "HiPo" air cleaner for a 60's mustang.

 

I was able to get a '72 302 (Mustang) air cleaner on top of it without issue either.

 

Still, it's a much taller carb than any Edelbrock - and I wouldn't be exaggerating if I said that any air cleaner I installed towered over the valve covers like a hovering UFO rather than a like part of the engine.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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The downpipes had not been completely welded when I first started the engine. Finished my semi-booger welds tonight:

 

qq7afb.jpg

 

2vd4gw0.jpg

 

That said, I have a bit of a quandary going with the ball-end Walker exhaust manifold connectors. These things have thick flanges with no bevel/chamfer at the flange:

 

295txk3.jpg

(FYI, the pic shows the 2.5" versions - they won't work if you're trying to cross-reference part numbers. You need the 2.25" version, P/N #41725 for the large-flange Magnum manifolds).

 

Unsurprisingly, I don't have the ball ends centered on the manifolds so that the pipe clears the torsion bar with ease (no matter how centered it looks here, it isn't):

 

125gnbp.jpg

 

This said, can I rely on the flat flanges to seal the ball end, even if the pipes are not parallel to the manifold? They seemed to be nice and tight during the engine startup, but I can tell you that you'd never hear an exhaust leak running it with those short downpipes.

 

Should I get a pair of chamfered 2.25" flanges (like the one below) and replace the flat flanges? Honestly, I'm a bit paranoid about getting an answer on this one, for it looks like I've run into yet another one of those unusual little questions that the internet has never answered until now. Seems like everything has beveled flanges except these things from Walker.

 

flan-ss-evo8dp-top-dimensions.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Almost finished up my "too cheap to pay an exhaust shop" booger-welded exhaust system.

 

3463qqc.jpg

 

30jhe2o.jpg

 

Not really too concerned that it might not flow as good as it could. I just care that it works and saves me a few hundred dollars.

 

2eo861d.jpg

 

Both pipes are just hanging from the Walker flared-end collectors in front, one lower than the other. I don't want to cut or measure the collectors for cutting just yet, as I'm waiting to buy a pair of proper beveled collector flanges from Treblig and install them at the same time I button everything up.

 

j5z4ox.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I've been intending to post a proper update with a video teaser, but got tripped up this weekend by a failed 3TB Seagate hard drive. Haven't lost any of the video, but I've maxed out a spare drive and have no drive pairs (one backup) over 500GB to allocate for the project video footage I've assembled over the last year. Wish I could afford a few drives to assemble a decent RAID array, and even a JBOD that would handle all my video files isn't THAT cheap when you're practically flinging money at the car.

 

In the meantime, you'll all have to be content with a few engine photos from Sunday. Front of the intake is a MESS from the thermostat outlet leaking (t-stat wasn't centered at first install, cue a big geyser of water during the pressure test), and was compounded by the bypass nipple leaking (ditched the Teflon, gave it a good fat coating of sticky gasket shellac and shoved it back in there - I don't care how much of a pain it'll be if I ever have to get it out again, so long as it doesn't leak).

 

kdpnnk.jpg

 

90yofr.jpg

 

n6501z.jpg

 

-Kurt

Can relate on those 3TB storage units. Have one, 3TB WD just out of warrantee w/mfg and contracted through vendors's source w/ Best Buys which the driver went out on me w/2,72TB in pictures and movies via my Leicas. Will not let the Geek Squad 'crak it open via trashing it's casing however Western Digital now w/6TB storage and back up uitsare spose to be very reliable. the 6TB unit @$250.00 in outside storage fixture and for sure a 5TB back up block @same cost. which think should have had a back up block as the internet back ups to reset operating mode only.
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Point #1: I hate Daylight Savings Time. Might as well work on the car at midnight.

 

Point #2: I really like these exhaust flanges. Big thanks to Treblig of the For A Bodies Only forum for hooking me up with these, seeing as Walker doesn't advertise the inside diameter of their OEM replacement flanges. Grrr.

 

2iaxwya.jpg

 

Point #3: If all goes well on the weekend, perhaps those flanges will become part of my exhaust, permanently.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Today, I tried welding and installing my pipes in this evening...in the rain.

 

Of course, it was neither nighttime nor evening when I first started.

 

2zem7if.jpg

 

It looked promising enough in the early afternoon. Flanges went on nicely, welds couldn't have been better, and this is what I call one hell of a perfect fit seeing that I figured out all the bends on this redneck exhaust without ever lifting the car up an inch, and pretty much threaded it through the bottom of the car flawlessly:

 

xo2sfl.jpg

 

5al015.jpg

 

23sask2.jpg

 

Then I welded on a small extension to make up the gap at the muffler (you can see it in the first photo), and installed the left pipe.

 

Turns out I was a bit too well tucked in. The straight section of 2.5" pipe pulled up just a quarter inch from the floorpan. Not enough for my liking.

 

After cutting and fooling with the fit at the back, I put it back in - and this time, I angled it wrong. So I closed up for the evening. Grrrrrrrrr.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Today, I got smart. I put the final section of 2.5" pipe in each muffler, and mitered it until it matched the pipe in front of it. With a few crosshairs placed on the pipe, I was able to get each section welded up perfectly.

 

That, and the USPS surprised me by delivering my 2.5 OD to ID exhaust band clamps just as I was finishing up the second pipe. Score!

 

But I don't have a photo of any of that (boo). I don't even have a photo of the brand-new Edelbrock 1406 I dumped on top of it (double boo). But I had barely enough fuel in the Summit - just before I pulled it - to record just a bit of what the new exhaust sounds like before it shut off. Please excuse the lens flares.

 

[video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vF3DycKpiz0

 

Not as quiet as I had expected...

 

Also had to get a power steering cap from the auto parts store. The original cap's seal was a goner - the P/S pump was a geyser of fluid on both of these startups.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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At last, the carburetor that the Mopar gods intended in the first place. Note how much better the throttle linkage and return springs sit.

 

2093hio.jpg

 

Spent the majority of the day trying to figure out why it wouldn't stay running - and only then realized that the Edelbrock (first time I've had one) has a 1/4" port in the back for power brakes, and it was gaping open!

 

Goodness knows I thought I heard a vacuum leak.

 

That said, I plugged it, and the engine started right up. Two problems:

 

1. The steering is locked solid. I must have installed the pump cam ring the wrong way. That would also explain why it's spitting fluid.

2. The engine idles good, but there's a valvetrain noise coming from the right side of which I'm quite worried about. Not a healthy sound.

 

It'll all have to wait though. I consider it a victory that I got it running, and will bask in that victory as I spend a bit of time this week plumbing the Summit carb on my '71 Mustang.

 

-Kurt

 

What mufflers are you running?

 

OEM-replacement spec Walker turbo mufflers with 2.5" glasspacks behind it.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Pulled the Saginaw PS pump this evening and flipped the cam ring around.

 

Would have been easy, but the van/Ramcharger two-piece P/S bracket has one drawback: You have to loosen the bracket to allow the pump's rear stud to slide out of its rear hole. The result? Water pump starts leaking. Probably seeping between the threads too, even though the threads have been shellacked.

 

At any rate, I'll be able to jack it, start it, bleed the steering, and then get to work on the valvetrain noise.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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21mujhx.jpg

 

Opened up the valve cover today and did a compression test on the entire right bank. 150+ PSI on each cylinder. Nothing wrong there, so no Miss Valve hooking up with Mr. Piston, thankfully. Granted, a leakdown test would be a better indicator, but hell with that - I don't have the tool.

 

t9f8du.jpg

 

I'll say one thing though - this thing does NOT starve for oil. I can idle my Valiant's 225 with the valve cover open and don't need anything more than a cardboard box, but this thing shoots oil through the pushrods as if it were at war with the valve cover.

 

That said, I found that the fifth rocker in from the front was just a tad looser than it should have been - probably had a bit of load on it when I tightened it initially. Tightened the crap out of every rocker bolt, closed up the cover, and...

 

...perfection. This thing runs so smooth you could build a house of cards on the intake manifold (if it wasn't for the fan). I've heard that the HEI conversion improves the idle considerably, and the 3.9's timing chain tensioner helps keep the distributor timing accurate as well - but I've never heard a specific report of how the two work together. Flawless seems to be the word.

 

Keeping it running is another matter entirely. I don't have the choke hooked up, and it's quite apparent that either the Edelbrock or this engine is very picky about having the perfect A/F mix or it won't stay running.

 

I don't have the alternator (a squareback I found on Craigslist) hooked up to the pulley system yet (still need that compressor), so I'm not sure if there will be any output off the field terminal if I wire it up as-is. Electricity isn't my strong suit (yet, anyway).

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Wow thanks for the heads up on your progress whit this engine Kurt[emoji41][emoji106] Well I do Like your build and I will follow it[emoji12][emoji106][emoji41] Regards Lars

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Regards DK73

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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33kekp0.jpg

 

Today saw the Satellite's very first run under its own power.

 

Still a few things to do before it's complete (PCV system, finished fuel line, compressor, 18" fan and shroud, etc), but it's more or less all there.

 

ins4up.jpg

 

That custom alternator bracket is gone. The spacing against the head just didn't work the way it was supposed to, and the slot was simply too large to work well. Metal seemed brittle too. I replaced it with one kicking around in the shed - I think it came from a Universal diesel engine. Looks the part effortlessly.

 

The 1406 was rejetted and fitted with springs and metering rods to 1405 stock specs. Conversion went like a charm.

 

One thing does have me concerned though - the 6.5psi max pressure requirement of the AFB carb. Since the AFB/AVS carbs were spec'ed new on these cars back in the day, I would assume the stock fuel pump adheres to this specification, though the stupid plastic fuel filter really makes me wonder about that.

 

bfpfrm.jpg

 

At any rate, I'm not keen on adding a regulator into the line - I don't want the added complexity or more potential leak spots.

 

One other problem: The throttle plates hang open on acceleration, which turned out to be the source of most of my high-idle/choke issues. Soon as I started pulling back on the pedal with my foot, the problems went away. Either the 2bbl return springs aren't cutting it, and/or the throttle cable housing isn't backed down far enough in its bracket.

 

The 904 is also slow to shift at times, but I'm pretty sure it's low on fluid - seems to have lost most of its fluid sitting in the driveway. That, and I need to get that all-important kickdown linkage (which a local Mopar guy says he can get for me for $50 - seems a bit high when the whole linkage can be had for $150).

 

Now that I've had the car over 2 mph, the shot tie rod ends are more apparent than ever. The Viper front brake conversion is next for this beast, so that'll all get taken care of at that point. Funny how I still ignore the weatherstripping, the shot driver's door latch, and the fact that the keys that I got for the car fit the ignition and trunk only - not the doors. Priorities, priorities :)

 

However, since this Lagnum (Maglam?) LA-roller-Magnum-headed 360 build is more or less done, I'm going to close this post with some celebratory beauty shots. Now that I can put the car anywhere under its own power, it's a lot easier to do!

 

149820x.jpg

 

30ryamd.jpg

 

1zntm4y.jpg

 

wv1zlx.jpg

 

I'll still drop in from time to time with updates, and the rest of the car's build will be at FBBO in this thread:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?96118-68-Satellite-4-door-light-refurb-and-big-fat-engine-swap

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Wow that is so awesome Kurt 😎[THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars

 

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73 😎

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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  • 2 weeks later...

2prd6oi.jpg

 

Big steps backwards this extended Thanksgiving holiday weekend - but, in the long run, it's a good thing that I caught this.

 

Remember how half of the lifters on the engine had been replaced on the passenger's side?

 

epkbhw.jpg

 

There was a good reason for that. The lifters on the driver's side all started failing to pump up with fluid after about a week or two of sitting, which brought me to the point of pulling the intake to find out what's up.

 

Long story short (VERY long: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=316085&page=9 ), the driver's side lifters do pump up, but bleed down very quickly and cannot maintain the necessary preload on the rockers.

 

At first, I thought this was a gallery blockage issue, which I quickly dismissed by checking flow at each bore (excellent) and by swapping lifters from one side to the other (bad ones wouldn't flow no matter where I put them, the good ones always flowed regardless of their position). Oil pressure is excellent, so that pretty much ruled out block issues.

 

Now that's where this just became sadistically irritating: Neither the Sealed Power nor Melling lifters I bought today - brand new - would pump up. I tried soaking them, then pumping them with oil in my drill press (with a pushrod in the chuck), and trying to prime them under the hood with and without pushrods installed.

 

Nothing worked.

 

Side-by-side comparison - no oil at left w/new Sealed Power lifter, oil to no end with one of the good lifters from the engine:

2e1rvch.jpg

 

And a video:

 

[video=youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wALp_S2rhsc

 

In the video, the new Mellings are on cylinders #6 and #8; the "good" lifters from the passenger's side are distributed in the front of the engine on #2, #4, #1, and #3; and the problematic lifters from the drivers' side are mounted in the #5 and #7 spot. The Sealed Power lifters were already returned to Advance Auto by then.

 

The video hasn't been edited and may be confusing (priming begins at 0:53), but as you will see, the Mellings barely dribble oil, the "good" old lifters shoot oil like no tomorrow, and the "bad" old lifters bleed down almost immediately after oil pressure is applied to them.

 

I also show how the old lifters have oiling holes at 90 degrees rather than 180 (straight up), but that's a Mopar oddity, and the video also shows me spinning one of the lifters 90 degrees to show that the flow doesn't change.

 

At any rate, I must have tried every lifter bleeding trick in the book, and I've come to one conclusion and no other: Both the Mexican-made Sealed Power lifters and the U.S.-made Mellings are junk.

 

I now am awaiting a used set of Magnum roller lifters that one of the fellows on the Mopar A-Body forum disassembled, cleaned, and tested for his stroker small block until he decided to change the direction of his build. I'd rather have good used (and fully cleaned) lifters that work than new lifters that don't!

 

Oh well.

 

P.S.: I was hoping that I'd be able to clean up my workshop after the engine was done.

 

2qsbhvo.jpg

 

"JUST KIDDING!"

 

This is what happens when your car hobby money has to come from selling stuff on eBay. It's an explosion of project car parts - in boxes - alongside stuff that doesn't sell on eBay - in boxes - and random crap you don't know where to put - in boxes - plus projects you never had time to organize and threw - in boxes - topped with everything else you forgot to put...in boxes.

 

Heck, that engine lift strap is still hanging on my bike stand, and I didn't even notice that until this minute. Maybe I have to take more photos of my junk heap to figure out what to do with it.

 

That also reminds me - the fire-damaged LED light panel should come back in the house now, if it doesn't smell like bad barbecue still.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't really been posting much about the lifters, but I finally found out a LOT about the LA roller lifters vs. the Magnum roller lifters (yes, there is a difference), and the need to pump the Magnum lifters up with a priming shaft in the engine - NO exceptions.

 

Everything is covered in nauseating detail in this thread, and is a must read if you want to learn about the variations of Mopar roller-cam lifters:

 

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1971061331#post1971061331

 

mi2exu.jpg

 

Long story short, I'm going to get 16 new lifters for this thing, prime them correctly, and button the whole thing back up again. What a saga...

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Congrats on all the successes/milestones! That is a sweet looking Mopar. Love the look. Need a spot light on the DS door... LOL

 

Keep in touch!

 

Ray

1971 Boss 351  

1972 Q code 4 speed convertible 

1971 Mustang Sportsroof  351-2V FMX 

1971 Hardtop (parts car)

1973 Mach 1 (parts car)

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Congrats on all the successes/milestones! That is a sweet looking Mopar. Love the look. Need a spot light on the DS door... LOL

 

Keep in touch!

 

Ray

 

Thanks, Ray! I'll call it a success when the engine is running without any lifter clanking or coolant leaks at the intake gaskets.

 

No door spotlight, but it has a hand-held GE spotlight hanging from a hook on the bottom of the passenger's side dashboard, with a coiled power wire :)

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just installed new lifters today - and they all pump up as intended.

 

Granted, one of the lifters is rough in the bore - I'm going to exchange it for another - but this project is back up on the move :)

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Returned the one offending new lifter, and got a replacement. Pumped up all the lifters, installed the pushrods/rockers, and checked the hydraulic pressure against each rocker - no give on any of them.

 

After installing the valvettrain, I pressurized the system again to check for oil at all rockers. Results A-OK.

 

Here's where I am at the end of today. Decided not to rush it and to get a new pair of intake gaskets tomorrow. These are completely oil soaked.

 

xol7i1.jpg

 

2qdpnjs.jpg

 

2s68rwl.jpg

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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SUCCESS! One running LA 360 turned Magnum!

 

16idtdx.jpg

 

ev2pa9.jpg

 

Only problem I'm having is copious smoke from the right-side exhaust manifold, which was doused in oil more than once by the original LA roller lifters. I wiped it down top and bottom, but it still smokes to a rather alarming extent.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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Coming right along! ::thumb::

 

How's the, uh, Mustang doing, BTW? :whistling: :cool:

 

Tomorrow, the Mustang is going to be fired up and placed into the spot the Satellite took over for way too many months.

 

Have to finish the left quarter, adjust the crossmember between the framerails, and do something about epoxy sealing the trunk - and everything else - properly. The spray trunk paint in there is utterly useless (new rule: "2K or nothing").

 

-Kurt

satellite-valiant-mustang-license-tags-signature.png

How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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