update to the learning curve.
I've learned there is a massive difference between what is posted online about master rebuild kits.
and what should actually be done during a rebuild.
the master kits they sell online for 150-230$ are basically new seals. there is a bushing kit required as well and the question of whom do you buy the kit from, plus the installation of all these new bushings.
for the most part just about every video or DYI guide online covers the master rebuild kits which again are just seals with the assumption that everything inside the transmission is rosey and perfect.
many books don't even cover everything, of the 3 books i bought all pretty much cover just using a master kit for rebuilds.
i think many people have thought that must be it, buy a rebuild it, take it apart according to the instructions and throw it all back together with new seals and clutches and you are good to go.
but i can see this covers 40-50% of a real transmission rebuild. only a couple of videos i have on c6 rebuilds have even talked about checking the various internal parts for wear or even how to do it, none talk about how to go about replacing some of the parts just that a part did not meet toleration or is worn.
thankfully one video i found talked about when doing a transmission rebuild you need a complete bushing kit and all bushings should be replaced during the process. i researched c6 bushing kits and i have to say it is REALLY confusing as well.
from the looks of it. if you have no wear inside a trans then you use a c6 master kit. but you are suppose to have a master bushing kit as well. additionally you could be replacing more and more metal parts as you go deeper into the trans towards the yoke this is due to the weight of the driveshaft and power output causing the internals to sag into the bottom of the transmission case.
surprisingly when you look over a diagram of a c6 transmission you expect a good amount of parts inside until you watch a detailed video of taking one apart completely and properly and Holy cow its like a clown car you start wondering how on earth they crammed so many things inside such a tiny case.
i can see that the amount of work i thought going into rebuilding a trans above what an average trans shop would do is at least double.
I can also see the pit falls and a bunch of ways compromising on cost with a rebuild will bite you in the butt again.
So far as a novice i can pretty much take a trans apart layout the parts and know what they are kind of, and i can diagnose what would of failed inside the case or what parts need to be replaced but that is about it. I have many more books and videos to watch and it isn't as easy as i hopped.
I can see from the videos and books i read pretty much what i would expect to find if i opened my blown trans.
first i would expect to see the bottom of the fluid pan filled with clutch junk, a black layer of shmoots and red fluid on top.
as i took things apart the pump at the front would be ok, the first set of bands 3rd and reverse would be in good shape, this is because my reverse still works. so that clutch drum assembly and the front pump would be cool with just a c6 rebuild kit.
then the fun starts.
the forward clutch would be burned up and fused together.
forward ring gear would be stuck in the clutches.
2nd gear band i'm sure would be toast because i'm betting the trans shop that screwed me 7 years ago never replaced it.
forward planet assembly, i will bet these will have mechanical damage, either caused by being worn out or something else wedged into the gears even some clutch junk could of gotten into them.... it seams most crap transmission shops don't even know how to inspect these.
there are about 3 bushing at this point that need to be replaced as well.
sun gear shell would be ok,, but its got 2 bushings in it.
rear planetary gear assembly would also be in question. Some trans shops don't even go this far as most rebuild kits stop here with parts in the kit. they usually change the rear seal for the yoke and just throw everything back together but that is where the real wear and tear damage starts because of gravity load on the back of the trans.
rear ring gear assembly is usually ok but again another bushing needs to be replaced inside.
then you have low and reverse clutch assembly which some trans shops don't even touch they just assume they are ok, the master kits do include these bands and clutches. these control the reverse gear so unless you tell the trans shop my reverse isn't working they don't bother going inside.
then you get to the inner race for low reverse which is usually toast.
so now i get why they will either swap a trans or why a fluid flush is a bad idea.
well one step at a time...