Correct lug nuts for 1973 forged aluminum wheels

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I use a factory ford lug nut on my 73 aluminum wheels, it is a solid chrome one piece design. They were used in the 1988 time frame on Mustangs and Thunderbirds. I first started using ones found at a Mustang salvage yard. Then later found some nos ones. I'll post pictures tomorrow of them in use and one positioned next to an original. The 66188 gorilla nuts are use able if desperate. I've seen the correct profile nut used as factory equipment on some car trailers but haven't had any luck tracing down the manufacturer.

 
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Here is a picture of the box and some used ones that I replaced. I can measure for you tomorrow if you want to give better idea. I had a set of matching locking nuts but lost the key and had to butcher them off.

Take the part number off the box and call your Ford dealer he might have some in a bin you never know.

David

 
Hey guys,

thank you for that much input!

@Jeff:

Thank you, but they will come to almost 300 Dollars altogehter - without shipping, customs and so on to Germany... :s

Although my father has probably the most original 1973 T5 convertible of the world I think the Gorrilas will do it also.

So like judge mentioned product 66188 are correct in size, right?

Thread 1/2"x20, length 2,0" and 7/8" hex?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-LIFE-TIME-LUG-NUTS-1-2-FOR-5-LUG-CHEVY-FORD-DODGE-TRUCK-7-8-HEX-66188-GORILLA-/381052132881

http://www.brandsport.com/grla-66188.html

That's my father's one:




BTW:

Does anybody know an adequate substitute for the screws that hold down the original wheels caps? Some of the original ones are missing or rusty...

Tim

 
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Tim,

The link I gave you is for one wheel. So it is $16 plus shipping for one wheel.

Also, the OEM one's were 13/16 hex if that matters. There is plenty of room for 7/8 hex though.

 
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"Does anybody know an adequate substitute for the screws that hold down the original wheels caps? Some of the original ones are missing or rusty..."

Stainless steel phillips head screws, but first you need to chase down the treads with a tap to clean 'em up. Use 'Never-seize' on the new threads. I don't recall the tap size off the top of my head - hopefully someone will chime in - otherwise I will take one of mine out and verify it for you. The original combination of plain steel screws and aluminum did not work well due to galvanic reaction. Let's hope none snapped in the wheel 'cause its a real pain to drill out the old and re-tap for new.

 
"Does anybody know an adequate substitute for the screws that hold down the original wheels caps? Some of the original ones are missing or rusty..."

Stainless steel phillips head screws, but first you need to chase down the treads with a tap to clean 'em up. Use 'Never-seize' on the new threads. I don't recall the tap size off the top of my head - hopefully someone will chime in - otherwise I will take one of mine out and verify it for you. The original combination of plain steel screws and aluminum did not work well due to galvanic reaction. Let's hope none snapped in the wheel 'cause its a real pain to drill out the old and re-tap for new.
Thanks, Bill!

Hopefully another guy here has the size in mind... Otherwise I would appreciate it very much if you could have a look by chance...

We have luck - only one thread seems to be snapped in the wheel in the past.

Tim

 
They are 8x32 oval head Phillips. About 5/8" should be suitable. I bought 1-1/2" at home depot and I cut them to length.
Thank you very much - awesome ::thumb::



I got mine from Don at Ohio Mustang. He has he correct screws. PM him or call them.

John J
John - already done ;)

Tim

 
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