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Where to connect electric choke wire on alternator?


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Hi everyone,

a while ago I have wired the electric choke of my Edelbrock carb to the switched 12V of the ignition switch. Means the choke heats when the ignition comes on. This works, but if you leave the ignition on for some seconds, the choke begins to heat and to open. It is no problem when the engine is at temperature, but with a cold engine starting gets harder.

 

Normally, I think the choke has to be wired to the alternator in a way that it only gets heated when the engine is running and the alternator gives power.

 

Can somebody tell me which is the right terminal for this?

 

Thanks.

 

Michael

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Hi everyone,

a while ago I have wired the electric choke of my Edelbrock carb to the switched 12V of the ignition switch. Means the choke heats when the ignition comes on. This works, but if you leave the ignition on for some seconds, the choke begins to heat and to open. It is no problem when the engine is at temperature, but with a cold engine starting gets harder.

 

Normally, I think the choke has to be wired to the alternator in a way that it only gets heated when the engine is running and the alternator gives power.

 

Can somebody tell me which is the right terminal for this?

 

Thanks.

 

Michael

The way you have it wired is correct If it's getting hot or opens premature when cold you then need to adjust it so it opens later..you do this by rotating the black cap to add tension to the choke spring..look up the instructions on choke adjustment.

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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i have a 73 and there is a white and black wire that runs from the STA connection of the alternator throught the main harness, then through the engine feed. i think this is specifically for the chock.

- Jim

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if you have an A/C car there is a 'Idle up'/'anti Diesel' solenoid on the original Carb, if you went aftermarket with a edelbrock or holley then that connector is unused. it is a a 1 pin rubber plug connector that runs on drivers side along the valve cover/intake manifold.

 

the solenoid is only on(12v) when the ignition is turned and engine running and shutoff when ignition off, perfect for a choke.

 

on A/C cars ford needed to run the idle much higher then the recommended 725rpms due to compressor drag but if the idle was high then there was a chance the car would diesel on shutdown especially when hot, so they made the solenoid which bumped up the idle when the engine was running but on shutdown it would shutdown and allow the carb to fully close and kill the engine without runon/diesel.

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It is the Stator, or S terminal.

 

+1

The choke should only be functional when the engine is RUNNING and WARMING UP, not any time the ignition is energized.

If you're worried about low voltage from the S terminal, install a relay to provide B+ and activate it from the S terminal.

Bob

 

Tachs, Voltmeters, Headlight kits, Wiper delays and more at

http://www.rccinnovations.com/Images/smlogo.jpg

Rocketman's Classic Cougar (and Mustang) Innovations, LLC

 

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.

never, ever connect a choke to the solenoid or the ignition wire . . the wire is a resistor type and adding the choke to it reduces the voltage which in some instances causes ignition problems.

 

the choke is designed to always have power when the key is on.

 

the old factory electric chokes were 9 volts and they connected to the alternator . . the new chokes are 12 volts but 99% of them will still open fully within around 2 minutes max when connected to the alternator which is only 7 - 9 volts.

 

just connect it to the alt with the engine cold, turn the key on and see how long it takes to open.

 

if it needs 12 volts to open fully then one option is to connect it to the accessory wire on the switch . . it will also be on when the switch is in the accessory position unless a relay is used.

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