Intake Re-Install

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EdM

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2014
Messages
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Location
Between the Texas Hill Country and North Idaho
My Car
1973 Mach 1 Q code, a 427 Dart based Windsor, Pro Flo 4, Tremec 5 speed, A/C, 12.7:1 steering conversion, SoT coil over and Dakota Digital dash.
All of the gasket surfaces are clean so now to re-install. My plan:

Edelbrock Gaskacinch the gaskets to the heads. I am using Fel-Pro Print-o-Seals and no pan.

Run all-thread down the four center holes for alignment.

RTV Blue the end seals (no gaskets).

Place manifold and follow proper torquing pattern in three steps.

Am I missing anything? Oh also, upon disassembly I noted that all of the bolts appear to have had RTV blue applied to the threads. Is this correct?

 
Bolts that thread into water jackets in the heads should have the threads coated with thread sealant, NOT RTV.

I use standard plumber's teflon sealer from a hardware store (the paste in the tube or can, not tape).

The bolts that thread into a blind hole (not into a water jacket) I lube with a small amount of oil. Too much old can "hydro lock" air/oil in the thread pocket (supposedly causing the bolt to bottom out prematurely).

The holes themselves should be clean and dry (get all of that RTV out of there).

You will get different opinions on the method, but this is mine.

Otherwise, I think your plan sounds good. Use the glue sparingly on the gaskets. Just a dab or three will do ya.

 
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.

vmf INTAKE INSTALLATION

I do the following.

first of all, throw that blue crap away or your intake will leak.

Use grade 8 bolts, grade 8 flat washers and grade lock washers . . if you want it fancy buy arp bolts or chrome, black or stainless allen head bolts and AN style flat washers.

If you use stainless, put some anti seize or grease on the shaft of the bolts.

Clean cylinder head and front and rear of block with lacquer thinner.

Install one, 1 1/2” long stud in the 4 corners of the head, not in the 4 center bolts unless they will only work in the foir center ones.

Lay the long gaskets on the heads and set the intake on.

Measure the distance between the intake and block and tell us what it is . . anywhere from 3/16” to 1/4” is ok.

Assuming it is ok there are a few approaches.

put a thin bead of permatex black gasket maker silicone around the water port on the head.

Put thin layer of gasket cinch on the intake ports on the head and gasket.

Carefully Install the gaskets then press them gently into place.

Put a small dab of permatex on all four corners where the block meets the heads.

Peel off the white plastic from the cork end gaskets and lightly put them in place . . the end tabs go into the slot in the gasket . . once they are properly located push down on them so they stick.

Put a dab of permatex in all four corners on top of the cork gasket and around the water ports and intake ports.

Carefully Install the intake . . if you do not use studs in the 4 corners to align it with then be careful not to slide it front and back for alignment by very much.

Put light coat of oil on intake bolt threads.

Install bolts.

Use correct torque pattern every time the bolts are tightened.

Tighten the bolts to 12 lbs.

Retighten to 12 lbs

Tighten to 18 lbs.

Retighten to 18 lbs.

Tighten to 24 lbs.

Tighten to 24 again.

Tighten to 24 again.

Run for 30 minutes.

Tighten bolts to 24 lbs again.

 
Your plan looks good. However, I prefer The Right Stuff instead of regular rtv sealant. I like MotoArt's idea of using the Teflon paste, I'm going to try it next time.

 
Your plan looks good. However, I prefer The Right Stuff instead of regular rtv sealant. I like MotoArt's idea of using the Teflon paste, I'm going to try it next time.
the right stuff is very good . . its only single drawback is that it skims over quickly so you need to work very quickly when using it especially when its warm out and trying to move fast when installing an intake is not something i like to do and it is hard for someone that doesn't do it all the time.

 
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the right stuff is very good . . its only single drawback is that it skims over quickly so you need to work very quickly when using it especially when its warm out and trying to move fast when installing an intake is not something i like to do and it is hard for someone that doesn't do it all the time.
That's a good point about it skimming over, I believe moisture (humidity) quickness it. The last time I used it was in a dry climate, now that I'm in Oregon I may have to rethink using it.

 
The only thing I would add is that I dont't do the final torque until after the rtv has cured for a few hours unless I am using the right stuff because it cures so quickly.

 
The only thing I can add is wait the full cure time for the sealant used before starting the engine. Chuck

 
The only thing I can add is wait the full cure time for the sealant used before starting the engine. Chuck
+1

i let them sit for 1 hour if i use the cork seals, if i use silicone there instead, i let it sit at least 12 hours.

 
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