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Full floor 1 piece replacement project start


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Hi Guy's

 

Still working on the stang, Got both quarter panels wheel wells trunk rear crossmember all done. Onto the floors, It already had the little patch floors welded in in the past and it looks pretty sad from below, plus everything is bronzed in and with huge gaps between welds.

 

Being in canada I didnt want to pay over 1000$ for a full floor, I see they are now made for our cars from dynacorn I think? seen it somewhere, by the time I pay 20% exchange truck freight duty etc Id be way over 1000$ A local supplier of sheet metal only offered the 2 full length sides until I bugged and bugged the to check for a full floor and to my suprise they said they showed one available that only required some modification to the floor ribbing being in a different location. I got it for 400$ so I dont mind a little modification. I hace a miller 211 mig and a xtreme plasma and consider myself a amateur welder fab guy, .

 

Anyone ever put in a 64-70 floor in a 71-73? I also will be replacing my front frame rails and tranny brace as they have been butchered up over the years. I'll post some progress pics, any suggestions welcome. Front frame rail under floor pictures where it attached to the front frame would be nice, im not sure how it attaches to the front torque box

 

I'll take some more pictures of the old floor soon.

 

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There is a post from Don at Ohio mustang supply he states of the transmission tunnel is fine just use the full length patches. He says the mods needed is flatening the panels to sit flat on the frame rails and there's lots of holes.to plea with you do the 70 pan man I'd rather be patching clean holes than rusty rear seat pans. I'm holding out personally until the specific part comes out. As they now have the front frame rails that they did not have in 2012. Just takes time but I have no choice. Also thought of buying the full floor just for the rear seat pans and tunnel while welding the lh&rh panels to them, go that route. Cheers

 

Sent from my LG-H950 using Tapatalk

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The full floor came in and its awesome. right length and width, the front ribs on the floor are about an inch more inward than my origional ones. I'm going to flip the flat part of the front rails to the inside so I dont have to mess with the new floor. The extra 4 holes under the seat pans I think i'mm put some plastic plugs in instead of welding them up . Going to bring home my lazer level from work and get my car to sit level on the jack stands before I start cutting the old floor out. I might even tack a square bar from the rockers to the front frame rails all the way to the other side of the car to keep the rails from moving too much.

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The full floor came in and its awesome. right length and width, the front ribs on the floor are about an inch more inward than my origional ones. I'm going to flip the flat part of the front rails to the inside so I dont have to mess with the new floor. The extra 4 holes under the seat pans I think i'mm put some plastic plugs in instead of welding them up . Going to bring home my lazer level from work and get my car to sit level on the jack stands before I start cutting the old floor out. I might even tack a square bar from the rockers to the front frame rails all the way to the other side of the car to keep the rails from moving too much.

 

that's a great result, check out this video for putting in floor pans,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiUT_-lEpIk . Fuzze nut has a great list of videos that I've learnt a lot from..

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Ya see all his videos , got the old floor out was 2 layers thick in some places. I took a risk but after leveling the car I cut the floor out in sections to see if anything moved and nothing did. I measured a bunch of places, door gaps stayed the same, to the cars credit it had nice rockers that are very solid and I've replaced all other panel on the car first before I tackled the floor. The front ribs are a bit off on the new floor, going to do some adjusting to make it fit and look good. Got some firewall work to do and the frame extension lips. my transmission hump cross-member also need a section replaced. Might buy new extensions , not sure yet, my jack stands are under them right now so I cant really move them without possiby messing up the floor alignment.20150613_210638.thumb.jpg.7eb50d4d5abf4bad221afae8e50902cd.jpg20150613_210646.thumb.jpg.69e9620976b7f0654283708b3d1f949e.jpg20150613_210749.thumb.jpg.a60c92077918fe99b818b7b0d3ac936b.jpg

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Well the name for the stang is now Clevor as I now have a 3 inch gash in my arm and 9 stitches from the floor cutting into me when I jumped when a hot amber hit me while i was welding, Ouch

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Well the name for the stang is now Clevor as I now have a 3 inch gash in my arm and 9 stitches from the floor cutting into me when I jumped when a hot amber hit me while i was welding, Ouch

 

OUCH!! That sucks! After you get used to the welding burns you can just let them sit there and sizzle on your skin and keep on welding! I have years of burns on me. :)

Good luck with the rest of the project and be careful! Its looking good!

Kevin
1971 Mach 1

408C Stroker - C4 w/3,000 stall - 8.8" Rear w/3.73's - Disc brakes all way around.

 

 

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83slimer,

 

Nice work there. How do you plan on treating the rust in the support frames?

 

mustang7173

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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20150515_194329.thumb.jpg.8999135a457015bfa11cb3a9bdfee5a5.jpg

83slimer,

 

Nice work there. How do you plan on treating the rust in the support frames?

 

mustang7173

 

POR15 seems to work great, I've been putting it on everywhere, I plan on doing the complete floor and under car in POR 15 gloss then if it fades over time put some spray on bed liner. Did my inner side of quarters see pic

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83slimer,

 

Not a real big fan of Por15 since it did not stop the rust for me. My experience with rust is either media blast it or cut it out. If you can media blast the top surface rust, and then apply the Ospho to work on the rust, it should prevent the rust from coming back.

 

http://www.ospho.com/index.htm

 

Checkout this thread.

 

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-sheet-metal-surface-rust-question?highlight=Sheet+metal+surface+rust+question

 

Let us know how the project is moving forward.

 

mustang7173 :)

Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well got both sides of the firewall patched and starting to look good. Now I just have to order new front frame extensions and fix up the tranny hump. Still got some body work to clean up so the repairs are invisible.20150701_144435_resized.thumb.jpg.9639aff51387a8779812389fc82bf2cc.jpg20150701_144415_resized.thumb.jpg.7ec84b85d2a2712d156468bb564ba677.jpg20150701_144410_resized.thumb.jpg.15bbe412edeea8c75be342a54ac17152.jpg

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For sure you are not afraid to jump in and do it. Hope everything stays aligned they are so flimsy. I have attached a scan of the page out of the Ford shop manual that gives the dimensions they use when putting one together. A frame shop also uses this to pull back into shape after a crash. They have gages they can hang in the check points. Just some more reference for you to check.

With all that floor rust was the cowl not rusty?

David

1973_Mustang_Cougar_Underbody_Dim.img.pdf

When a man is in the woods and talks and no women are there is he still wrong??:P

David

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So ill post some pics soon of the 64-68 floor I've modified the front section so the ribs are correct for the 71-73 , took a bit of time but i'm happy with the result

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The 64-68 floor, does it extend all the way under the rear seat? I will be interested to see pics of the install when you get to that stage!

 

Looking really nice so far. Keep up the good work.

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Yes extends all the way under rear seat, I bought the seat riser kit and it came with new torque box covers and all the plugs for the floor (too my surprise) The seat risers are about 2 inches taller than the 71-73 but I dont mind as they are really beefy and im planning on putting in newer mustang seats so i'll make custom brackets. I'll test fit everything before I weld the risers in , if they end up too tall with the seat I'm going to section the platforms so they sit lower like the 71-73 ones.20150713_190230.thumb.jpg.76124a04f17bf5dc91303ce6d00fdc48.jpg20150713_190121.thumb.jpg.dd4fbe70416d7fa2a5e72ede4db5f770.jpg20150709_192252.thumb.jpg.98675ba2a3ac96a69c6d5e435b36c753.jpg

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Thanks,

mustang7173 🇺🇸

"Courage is being scared to death but saddling up anyway" -- John Wayne

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Yes but by the time I get it all the way to canada at the exchange rate and duty and shipping etc etc it would have been almost 1400$ I got the 64-68 locally for 400$

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That was pretty clever how you modified the front floor section. Sliding the ribs outward and using the outer piece as the filler panel. Well worth the labor, for the $ savings.

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Yes it was, and most of it will be hidden from sight by the frame extension, i'll only need a little filler to hide the work. Have one torque box left to go then the test fit and the 100+ holes to drill and weld, I cant wait !!

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Im half done on the welding, had to massage the tranny tunnel to fit tight up against the tranny support. Starting to feel solid. A little tip, start from the rockers inward when attaching the floor, I started at the tunnel and the floor was being pulled away from the rocker sides.

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For sure you are not afraid to jump in and do it. Hope everything stays aligned they are so flimsy. I have attached a scan of the page out of the Ford shop manual that gives the dimensions they use when putting one together. A frame shop also uses this to pull back into shape after a crash. They have gages they can hang in the check points. Just some more reference for you to check.

With all that floor rust was the cowl not rusty?

David

 

Already repaired the cowl

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