Harmonic Balancer

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naa10104

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Reston, VA
My Car
1973 Convertible, matching #'s H Code, Auto
Hello,

Need to replace the Harmonic Balancer on my 73 with a 351 C 2V, engine still in vehicle.

Few questions, how do you keep the motor,(crank) from rotating while loosening/tightning ?

Okay to buy any OEM balancer listed for this vehicle or should I look for a certain type brand ?

Radiator has to come out ... right ?

Thanks

 
It doesn't matter if the crank turns. Just match up to the key, where ever it ends up. You could probably do it with rad in place, depends on your puller and what you are using to get torque on it. I would remove it just for ease. Not sure about the replacement part, I've only used OEM there.

 
Just to keep from having to replace the radiator I would pull it so it does not get damaged. It will also keep you from shredding the backs of your hands against the fins.

I am guessing you are asking about getting the big bolt loose:

The best way to break the big bolt loose:

Pull the coil wire so the engine can't start

Remove the lower pulley from the damper

Put the correct size socket on a nice long breaker bar that is long enough to put against the frame or against the floor so that when the engine turns over the breaker bar can not move.

Be sure you have the breaker bar up against something solid so it does not go flipping around your garage.

Hide the women and children

Jog the motor with the key - just a very quick blip.

The big bolt will now be broke loose and can be removed - easy peasy

You can now use a puller to slide the damper off of the crank.

A stock OEM style damper is fine for a stock or even not so stock engine.

- Paul

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just to keep from having to replace the radiator I would pull it so it does not get damaged. It will also keep you from shredding the backs of your hands against the fins.

I am guessing you are asking about getting the big bolt loose:

The best way to break the big bolt loose:

Pull the coil wire so the engine can't start

Remove the lower pulley from the damper

Put the correct size socket on a nice long breaker bar that is long enough to put against the frame or against the floor so that when the engine turns over the breaker bar can not move.

Be sure you have the breaker bar up against something solid so it does not go flipping around your garage.

Hide the women and children

Jog the motor with the key - just a very quick blip.

The big bolt will now be broke loose and can be removed - easy peasy

You can now use a puller to slide the damper off of the crank.

A stock OEM style damper is fine for a stock or even not so stock engine.

- Paul
Click to expand...
thanks for all the input ... how about when re-tightening ... how do you keep the crank from turning ?

 
Romacs are very very very nice at about $300.

Dormans are nice at about $75.

Unless your 351C 2V is super charged or has a blower you will probably be OK with the Dorman.

Good luck with your project - let us know how it turns out.

- Paul


I always use an impact wrench to put them back on.

Nothing better than a big air compressor and a gun to zip things back tight.

This could also be time to buy the latest electric impact wrench. They are stronger than the old style air guns and are not that expensive.

If you do not have access to this then you can put longer bolts in the pulley mounting holes and then use a bar between them to keep things from turning.

Something like this:

jgpg0l.jpg


I love home made tools!

- Paul

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I do it similar to what Paul shows except I just use a tire iron between the bolts. I do not use an impact. If you do use an impact make sure you get the bolt started by hand and a good way in.

 
I do it similar to what Paul shows except I just use a tire iron between the bolts. I do not use an impact. If you do use an impact make sure you get the bolt started by hand and a good way in.
Click to expand...
Ditto on the get it started before impacting it - run it as far down by hand before getting out the air tools - would suck to screw up the threads in the crank.

Also - if you are having some oil seepage from around the front crank seal now would be the time to slip on a sleeve. They are cheap.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-16213/applications/make/ford/engine-family/ford-cleveland

Edit: opps - senior moment - you do not need the sleeve if you are replacing the damper

- Paul

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You can also do the old rope trick. Remove spark plugs. Rotate the engine by hand with a breaker bar on the crank bolt until the number one piston is at TDC on the compression stroke. Make absolutely sure you are on the compression stroke (both valves closed). This is critical to avoid damaging a valve.

Rotate breaker bar slightly in the opposite direction so that the #1 piston travels about halfway down the bore. Take some small diameter rope and feed it into the #1 spark plug hole. Make sure you leave some sticking out so you can retrieve it.

Now turn the breaker bar so that the piston starts to travel back up the bore. The rope will stop the pistons movement so that you can now remove or re-install the crank bolt. Obviosly you need to be mindful of whether you need to loosen or tighten the crank bolt when positioning the piston and breaker bar when inserting the rope.

 

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