351 Boss Build To Spec....Preamble.

lollerzlollerzlollerzlollerz

After sitting on my parts/machined block/heads for 2+ years, I have begun my motor build-

71 351 Boss to stock specs to be replace 302 in my 73 Convertible.

My frustration has been

1. Lack of "COMPLETE PARTS LIST" which would not only provide the "enthusiast" with a starting point for the budget, but would also identify parts which will inevitably get misplaced along the way. And by complete I mean:

Bolt- 1/2-13" Thread, 6" Length, 7/16" Hex Head, BLACK

Washer, Flat- 1/2" ID 1 1.4" OD .0625" TH Zinc




2. A truly complete step by step guide-

EXACT Tools Required for the step.

EXACT Parts/Qyt Required for the step.

Torque




3. Manufacturer guidance.

If/when you use FELPRO parts, Holley, Edelbrock, and any other BOLT ON, the instruction set is severely lacking in intelligence and expertise. For example, if one looks up the best way to install the rear bearing seal, or the oil pan gasket, you will get a myriad of tips/do's/don't, most of which begin with "DON'T FOLLOW MANUFACTURE INSTRUCTIONS".

To this day, it amazes me how companies like PERMATEX and LOCTITE do not have a STEP BY STEP guide as to which products to use at what step in our engine builds, and the proper way to apply them.

So, I will be asking the help of the people here I trust....and regardless of their advice, I will screw it up on my own.

Thank you in advance!!!

That's the road I usually take. Ask for advice and screw up on my own. At least you had been warned.

The most important thing is to not learn anything from it.

You're right on the "do not follow instructions" advice. If the company doesn't know how to use their product then what?

Looking forward to seeing your build.

Tip # 1 The plugs for the oil galleys are different front to rear and the rear ones will seal the front, but the front ones will leak if used in the rear . . . . sealer may stop it from leaking, or it may not.

Tip # 2 When installing your cam, setting the engine on the back of the block so you can lower the cam straight down makes it much easier to manipulate the cam. You'll need a few pieces of wood to create a recess for the crankshaft though when you stand it up.

Tip #3 The standard rubber rear main seal has leaked for several people building stroker motors. The Felpro 2902 is better as it is made of a floro elastamer, but it is out of production and very hard to find. SCE is now producing one of similar construction. Can't say if it is the same, equal, better etc. I have one on order and hope to compare all three in the next few days. Line honing and line boring can cause the relative position of the groove in the rear main cap and block to be slightly altered from being perfectly concentric with the crank. If I was building a new engine, I'd have it cut for a 1 piece rear main seal for a 351 W and save myself a major potential headache-especially if the block was line honed or line bored

That's the road I usually take. Ask for advice and screw up on my own. At least you had been warned.

The most important thing is to not learn anything from it.

You're right on the "do not follow instructions" advice. If the company doesn't know how to use their product then what?

Click to expand...

lol

Wow... I forgot to start my tip sheet. Thanks Jeff!!!

Tip #1...I will document thoroughly.

Tip #2...I think I can tip over my engine stand to accomplish this without issue.

Tip #3...

Found this on SPEEDTALK FORUM:


Re: Felpro 2902 Cleveland Rear Main Seal


Postby b.guggenmos » Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:59 pm


We figured this one out over on a different Forum. Cometic C5689 as well as SCE 23615. Same seals as the Fel Pro 2902. Brian




Perhaps you will be able to confirm. All I can say, and I will say often, how can this be the 21st century and FELPRO, THE GASKET MONOPOLY THAT THEY ARE, can't get a reliable solution to a rear main bearing seal...or oil pan seal....on a motor that has been in operation for 45 years....they should be ashamed.

And last...by LINE HONED/BORED...

0. My camshaft bearing were installed by the machinist and cut in the block to match the cam.

1. My crank was undercut .0010...I am pretty sure that is the number.

2. Undersize bearings installed.

3. My block was ALIGN HONED, I am thinking less then .0003 because my machinist indicated it was surprising straight to begin with.

4. So, what would not be concentric?

Looking forward to seeing your build.

Tip # 1 The plugs for the oil galleys are different front to rear

Tip # 2 When installing your cam, setting the engine on the back of the block

Tip #3 The standard rubber rear main seal has leaked ...If I was building a new engine, I'd have it cut for a 1 piece rear main seal for a 351 W and save myself a major potential headache-especially if the block was line honed or line bored

Click to expand...

If align honed that small mount, probably nothing.

When a block needs some "correcting", they take a bit off the caps before they bore. When they bore material will be removed from both sides-but the groove the seal rides in changes relationship to the crank, cause they don't correct that. Essentially the seal gets closer to the crank by the amount of material removed.

I would call the machinist and discuss it before building, but I imagine you will be fine. My replacement block had spun the #2 bearing and the heat warped that saddle. I have no idea how much it took to clean it up.

Since I am going to be putting my transmission back in in 100 degree heat and I have had to replace an oil soaked clutch as a result of the leak, I'd have any Cleveland I build in the future cut for a 1 piece rear main seal, but maybe that's because I'm lazy.

The SCE part number is what I have on the way- but I have both the felpro types. The Cometic you listed is a 1 piece style.

and you can't lift a bare block off the stand all by yourself?

Line boring (using a cutter rather than stones) re-sizes the ID of the crankshaft saddles and caps (where the main bearings live) back to nominal or standard. The first step in this process is removing a small amount of material from the main cap seating surfaces where they would sit on the block. The caps are then installed, and a cutter is run through the main bearing bores turning the now egg-shaped bores back into concentric bores at the (usually) nominal ID. A side effect of this material removal from the main cap is that the centerline of the main bearing bores moves toward the camshaft by a small amount. Since the seating surface of the rear main seal was not moved along with the crankshaft's, these two bores are now not on the same center line. Most assume that the flexibility of the rubber seal will be able to accommodate the difference, but it sounds like maybe not...

Jeff's suggestion of having a one-piece seal recess cut out of the block and cap would solve this issue...

I think this is how the line boring/ honing process works, please correct me if I'm wrong...

Tip #4. Spray paint everything now so it will be dry by the time you're done with engine assembly. rofl

are you using real Boss parts like the crank and rods for your project? I had read details on the Boss parts in many tuner books...some of that stuff is like $$gold today if you can even find it. But new technology is so far superior today. The original Boss rods/bolts had a lot of special treatments in their day...but off the shelf Corrillo rods or Jesel pieces avail today make them seem like stone age tech!

Doesn't really matter. If Wolverine builds it it is the Boss, even with rubber Pistons.

Are you using real Boss parts like the crank and rods for your project?

Click to expand...

Wow...someone asking me a question. Must be a new member!!!

REAL BOSS PARTS- Mostly not. As you stated, we have better pistons, better ignition, etc. Why wouldn't I take advantage of that? Now I feel like a liar....

Everything after this is blah blah blah.

My good friends here knows how "picky" I am about correctness. These same people also know how stupid I am...and it is stupid to try to build a 351 Boss motor for a daily driver.

That being said, I will be posting all my parts, all the markings, every nut, bolt, washer with dimensions and weight. People can judge for themselves. I am not having my parts tested for hardness, which is the only way to tell on some of these parts.

In some circumstances, will I be "upgrading"? Absolutely.

Rods/Crank/Cam

As far as I know, my rods and crank match 351 Boss markings. But as I understand the situation, additional work/hardening/etc. was done to assure they would meet certain performance levels. Can I prove mine went under this scrutiny? I can't prove it and in all likelihood they did not. But, I suspect under the circumstances I will be running them, no one will be able to tell the difference.

Lifters/Rockers

To hell with solid lifters. Roller rockers? Maybe. Under 5500 RPM where I will be running, who will know? Except those who have an ear for the CLANG CLANG CLANG CLANG CLANG or DING DING DING DING DING of a solid lifter?

Ignition

And I certainly will not be using the piece of crap mechanical points, let alone dual mechanical points, mostly because the point manufacturers make crap. HEI for me.

Pistons

Now, where am I going to get .030 over Boss pistons?

Carburation

Will I have a true Boss Holley Carb? Maybe. I am actually looking for the Holley aftermarket to go with my aftermarket intake. Got one to spare?

This is probably a stupid choice on my part as the aftermarkets were meant more for the track then the street(at least that is what the propaganda says). Although some contend the aftermarket carb was intended to correct all the pitfalls of the production model. Who knows? Where is the guy who made that decision anyway? Got to be here somewhere.

Exhaust

I have stock manifolds with BOSS markings. However the manifolds have not be opened up to the BOSS specs. Will I open them. No.

Block

My block is a 2 bolt main block. It could have been a 4 bolt for a Boss. Am I going to make it a 4 bolt. No.

So, perhaps I have to take the 351 Boss labeling back....but what else would I call it? 351 Boss Clone....maybe that would be more appropriate. Don't want anyone's panties to get to tight.

What about real Boss paint? How can you do that in Cali? Lollerz

twice in one thread Don? I'm going to have to warn you about instigating. . . .

twice in one thread Don? I'm going to have to warn you about instigating. . . .

Click to expand...

Go ahead. Hit that warn button...see what happens. :whistling:

Left shoulder angel: "don't do it, you'll regret it"

Right shoulder angel: "Aw C'mon...what's the fun if you let this pass? Do it! Do it now!"

Me: Never tempt me like that Don...

What about real Boss paint? How can you do that in Cali? Lollerz

Click to expand...

Wow...I never even thought of Boss paint....but, since you asked(I don't think I am going to live long enough for the paint to dry...)(from our friends at http://www.boss351registry.com/FAQ-1.htm)


What parts under the hood are usually painted gray ?

[This color is commonly called "slop gray" or "batch gray paint". It can be obtained at finer auto parts stores or a close facsimile. Like in 1970, Dearborn built cars received this color on certain parts under the hood.

1) Export Braces: Part numbers D1ZZ-16A052-ARH and D1ZZ-16A0532H.

2) Hood Latch Brace: D1ZZ-16707.

3) Headlight Housing Supports: D1ZZ-13BU65-B and D1ZZ-13B065-A.

4) Front License Plate Bracket.

5) Front Suspension bumper brackets D1ZZ-13BU65-A D1ZZ-13B065-B.

6) Support braces (Front fender to apron) D1ZZ-3382-B D1ZZ-3383-C.]

7) The upper shock mount cap were phosphate and oil coated.

Thanks to Bob Perkins

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What are the correct color codes for the driveshaft and coil springs?

[First: The correct color codes are violet, red and yellow. They are located near the center of the drive shaft with violet near the transmission and yellow toward the rear end. Second: Front springs: one gold stripe and one white strip on each of the coils. The front shock has one white paint daub and the rears have one orange paint daub each.]

What are the correct part numbers, color and paint codes for the shocks?

[Original engineering part numbers for the '71 Boss 351 shocks are D!ZF-18045-BB for the front and DOZF-180-B1 for the rear. The shocks are painted semi gloss black, with one orange paint daub on the rear shocks and a white daub on the fronts.]

Thanks to Bob Perkins 1/2007


Paint codes for the Magnum 500's?

[The correct paint code for the D10Z-1007 Magnum 500 is two orange daubs. The A9ZZ-1007-D magnum used on the '71 Mustang before April 2, 1971 had two white daubs on the back of the wheel. Both daubs were located on the very outside of the rim directly across from each other (opposite sides)]

Thanks to Bob Perkins 1/2007

Back to Top

Special Paint Side Mirrors?

[if a '70 or '71 Boss Mustang was ordered with paint that wasn't a standard Mustang color, it received the single chrome mirror on the driver's door. If the special paint was a Mustang color but not a Boss color, the car could have come with either the single chrome mirror or the color-keyed racing mirrors depending on the factory inventory of painted mirrors. The color-keyed mirrors were painted by the mirror vendor prior to mirror assembly, which prevented the use of special-paint mirrors.]

Thanks to Bob Perkins 5/2006

Are you using real Boss parts like the crank and rods for your project?

Click to expand...

Wow...someone asking me a question. Must be a new member!!!

REAL BOSS PARTS- Mostly not. As you stated, we have better pistons, better ignition, etc. Why wouldn't I take advantage of that? Now I feel like a liar....

Everything after this is blah blah blah.

My good friends here knows how "picky" I am about correctness. These same people also know how stupid I am...and it is stupid to try to build a 351 Boss motor for a daily driver.

That being said, I will be posting all my parts, all the markings, every nut, bolt, washer with dimensions and weight. People can judge for themselves. I am not having my parts tested for hardness, which is the only way to tell on some of these parts.

In some circumstances, will I be "upgrading"? Absolutely.

...

Click to expand...

So... you're building a 351C-4V then. :bravo:

Hint: don't use Duplicolor "Old Ford Blue." You'll never hear the end of it. oke:

You guys.......

Listen, I just have to put my .02 into the ring here. Understand, what I am about to say comes from experience, as well as the fact that engine assembly is what I do for a living at Valley Head Service, an establishment that has built engines from stock restorations, to full on Nitro drag racing bullets, for over 50 years now.

You have nothing to fear from having a line bore, or line hone, performed on your 351c, or whatever engine you have. Do any of you realize that EVERY factory cylinder block that is machined for high performance stresses, be it a Ford, a Chevy, or EVERY 331/354/392 Chrysler hemi, gets aftermarket main caps, four-bolt or girdle style, fitted to them, and they are ALL line bored to fit, and usually followed up with a line hone. EVERY ONE. I have never, so far in my career, had a rear main leak or seep due to a line bore/hone.

They can leak for various other reasons, which a seasoned engine tech will recognize and address,but blaming a commonly performed machining operation for the problem.....no.

I might add here, that, it was posted that the performance envelope of a proposed build was to be to 5500 rpm. If this is the case, you don't need, or want, a real Boss 351 for that. Even the two barrel heads will pull to that, a four-bolt main block isn't really necessary here as well, nice if you got one, but not necessary. D1ZZ rods, more expensive than aftermarket H-beams, and so on.

My realistic opinion....leave the correct part number parts to a guy restoring a real Boss 351. On the street, you can buy the performance you are looking for in the aftermarket for a fraction of the price of OEM Boss parts. Don't try to put a highly built-up engine in front of an automatic, unless you are prepared to yank the trans and throw an equal amount of money into making it shift, and live, behind a big cam. Even if you do all of that, you'll need to replace your open third member with a Traction-Loc and better gearing....which now leads you to changing out your old suspension for springs/shocks/bushings/arms/bars, etc.....see where modifying will take you if you aren't pragmatic and carefull????

Good advice Spike.