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Which Optima Battery?


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I had a Red Top in my '97 Dodge Ram as a daily driver - flawless performance.

 

Unless you're planning on 'daily driving' the Mustang, I'd go with a Yellow Top, since it's more geared toward charging/discharging and sitting for long term between start-ups. It has "deep cycle" properties.

 

The Blue Top Marine batteries are good for long-term sitting vehicles as well.

Eric

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I got the Red top and have had it about a year now. I try to drive the car at least once a week but have gone 3 weeks with no issues. So far I am happy with it.

-john

(jbojo)

351C 4V cc heads, 10.5 : 1 CR, 290 Herbert cam, Flat top forged pistons, forged connecting rods, Atomic efi,

C6 with Gear Vendor overdrive, 3.89 Tru Trac, Hooker Super Comp with 2 1/2" Pypes Exhaust.        

 

Some Mod pictures can be seen at: [button=http://www.7173mustangs.com/forum-garage?filterxt_uid=2026]Bojo's Garage[/button]

 

 

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You would probably be just fine with a Red Top, then. I think they're actually a bit cheaper than the Yellow Tops, too - by about $25.

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Battery+-+Automotive/C0423/C0005.oap?year=1971&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=5139382

 

I just looked at my local O'Reilly Auto Parts. GEEZ!!! I remember getting the Red Top for my '97 Ram about 6 years ago and complained about paying $145 for it then.

 

Wow. I guess that means I need to bleed the batteries dry in my 2012 Ram, Jeep CJ-7, and Mach 1 before I go after any more Optimas.

 

 

Edit* BTW - Red Tops have higher cranking amp ratings than the Yellow Tops. Just in case you hadn't noticed. Red Top: 910 CA/720 CCA Yellow Top: 770 CA/620 CCA

Eric

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I am using red top model number ULT-8002-002 with 1000/800 cold cranking power and it fires my car instantly every time hot or cold, these are excellent batteries and mine dropped right in with no issues. I bought mine from summit for $179.97 and worth every penny;)

351w - Ford racing GT40X 178 cc aluminum heads - Ford racing(crane) 1.7 roller rockers - Comp Cams 280H magnum cam .544" / .544" lift - ARP hardware - hedman longtubes - magnaflow exhaust with X pipe - Duraspark - MSD digital 6al box - MSD TFI coil - optima red top battery - tuff stuff 140 amp alternator - weiand stealth intake  - edelbrock 1406 600 carb  - march pullies and brackets - Be cool fan controller - derale electric fan - FMX trans - motive 4.11 gears - traction lok - lakewood traction bars.                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Got myself the red top. One day I turned the key and the switch stuck.

Turned key off and removed it from lock but engine kept cranking.

Opened the hood and pulled the coil wire but left the car crank until

the Optima red top died. Not even enough power for the clock was left.

Battery totally dead. Went back out 4 hours later and, just for kicks, flipped

the key and the car fired right up. Get an Optima.

 

mike

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Red Top.

 

If you plan to store the car for around two weeks or more, get a $20 Battery Tender Jr. and hook it up to the Optima when not in use. Long-term storage problems solved.

 

-Kurt

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How to buy a '71-73 Mustang:

Rule #1: Assume all classic car sellers are guilty until proven innocent.

Rule #2: No classic car dealer is ever innocent; thus, they are all guilty.

Rule #3: Buy from trustworthy people: Fellow forum members. Visit 7173Mustang's For Sale forum.

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I've had a Optima Red Top in my 69 vert for the past 6 years. No problems whatsoever. During the long WNY winters, I typically disconnect the cables in Nov and let everything sit that way (unheated garage) until spring. In April, I hook up a battery charger and it takes maybe 2 hrs to top out the charge. Car starts immediately. For the past few months I've only taken it out two or three times so far (3-4 weeks apart - its been a very wet and cool spring). No issues.

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Anyone using an Optima Gel Battery in their 71-73? Just wondering which part number to order and also yellow top or red top...which is better? If I remember right, the Mustangs use 34R (right side positive terminal?)

 

 

Red Top for sure. I bought my first red top around '95 or '96, yeah that's right during the last century. I kid you not, I had that in a '70 Bronco for 13 years!!!! You need to charge them carefully, as Optima has specific do's and don'ts...

 

2020954979_OptimaRed-ChargingSpecs.thumb.PNG.a4b870393670c79fa92e9e8ab31b74ec.PNG

You can trickle but not more than 1 amp & 10 amps for a 6-12 hour charge...my charger does 2 amps and 15 amps...wtf! :shootself:

Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic! ::thumb::

 

 

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  • 3 years later...

Update on Optima battery.  May have purchased my first "bad" Optima.

When I purchase a "new" vehicle I usually do a few things; lube, oil, battery

etc.  I purchased a 1998 Sonoma and went to replace the battery, no issues

just don't know how old the battery.  Have used Optima for a long time.

Equipped a friend's RV with six blue tops plus a couple of cars.  Put a new

Optima in the truck and began to notice the dash gauge was reading slightly

lower voltage and the engine seemed to crank harder.  Checked the terminal

voltage while running and read 14.4V as it should.  Disconnected one cable

and the battery read 10V!  What is going on here?  Hooked up an Optima

approved charger  as mentioned in a previous post for a few hours and the

battery now reads 11.4V

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  • 3 months later...

I just sent an email to Optima asking about warranty service.

I was told "It sounds like your battery may be sulfated". What

is "sulfated"? I was told to charge the battery "a few times" to fix

the problem. Ever heard of this?

 

mike

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Sulfated is when sulfur in the sulfuric acid drops out of the solution and coats the plates, reducing the effectiveness of the acid. Common when batteries don't receive charge long enough. It happens frequently with solar charged and wind charged batteries. Also car batteries that are driven on short trips to the grocery store.

 

A mild overcharge can get the sulfur back into solution, just don't let them boil dry. Some new chargers and tenders utilize a high frequency voltage along with the DC current that is supposed to keep the sufation from happening. I have one for our motorhome, but haven't connected it yet, so don't know if the claim is valid.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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They were bough out by Johnson Controls and quality has tanked.

 

I personally have a Sears Diehard battery in my 71 -- no problems.

1971 Mustang

Grabber Lime with black deluxe interior

302 engine with C-4 transmission and 9" rear end with 3.50 gears

 

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The batteries I have had the best luck with are Motorcraft. Interstate is my second choice.

 

 

“If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough.”

--Albert Einstein

 

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