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I always thought that these doors would look so clean without the handles and keyholes in them. Excellent idea in my opinion! I can't wait until all this welding is done and we can see the car as a whole in primer (I know you can't either)!

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- Nik

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Thanks, I smoothed out the front and rear side marker lights too. I have another several hours of seam welding to do, from behind the doors to tail panel both sides, and around the rear window frame, then I'm gonna work on the front air bag suspension before I rehang the doors and nose. I'm also rebuilding the door hinges now. Got a great repair kit on line that includes a grease able hinge pin. Working out real nice will show pics tomorrow of that. I am looking forward to getting some urethane primer on these panels. I'm struggling with flash rust with all the bare metal . Humidity and even finger prints causing a problem . Getting close to reassembly point. a lot of customizing on the door window hardware to be done also. Wow it never ends lol.

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I am looking forward to getting some urethane primer on these panels. I'm struggling with flash rust with all the bare metal . Humidity and even finger prints causing a problem .

Flash rust can be an issue especially when your spending lots of time doing metal work...My procedure has been to media blast strip to bare metal--Then epoxy prime the entire part--Once in epoxy it can stay forever with out rusting and you can do your work as you want only removing the epoxy where your working. A side benefit is that the epoxy actually works better as a weld through primer then actual weld through..I have spot welds that were ground down sitting in bare metal (on lap joints that we epoxied the parts before assembly welding) over a year ago & still no rust. Urethane primer offers no protection to the metal at all its porous and will absorb moisture over time

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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I am looking forward to getting some urethane primer on these panels. I'm struggling with flash rust with all the bare metal . Humidity and even finger prints causing a problem .

Flash rust can be an issue especially when your spending lots of time doing metal work...My procedure has been to media blast strip to bare metal--Then epoxy prime the entire part--Once in epoxy it can stay forever with out rusting and you can do your work as you want only removing the epoxy where your working. A side benefit is that the epoxy actually works better as a weld through primer then actual weld through..I have spot welds that were ground down sitting in bare metal (on lap joints that we epoxied the parts before assembly welding) over a year ago & still no rust. Urethane primer offers no protection to the metal at all its porous and will absorb moisture over time

Thanks for the tip. To clarify a bit, I shot the car with epoxy primer over raw metal after etching, and after I made many rust repairs patches and panel replacement, before I began cutting it up. I was referring to after all the mods are complete, I plan to shoot it again with high build 2k urethane to begin the blocking. Would you continue to use epoxy through the entire process up till sealer. I find 2k urethane fills great and is easy to block out. Having not used epoxy through an entire project I'm not familiar with how well it will work in between block coats. Please advise ,Again thanks for the info.


image.thumb.jpg.3e6a5ab363b03e5d02f9a0519f6d2ab1.jpgBefore I began the chop job


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WOW, that car was looking pretty good before I cut the crap out of it ,LOL :chin:


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Note, these last few pics are of the project before I began cutting and sectioning, didn't want anyone to think it was progress , LOL

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My doors have the handles filled. Interested on how you do the poppers. :)

 

I will post pics when I get around to doing them, I haven't thought that through yet. I will also be using the key lock mechanism to release the latch as a back up because it can be frustrating when the poppers fail for whatever reason. I left the key hole open that'll be all that's there. I've done this on many mini truck projects before but not on a mustang so I'll have to figure it out as I go along. As a preliminary thought sitting here. The latch mechanism is lowered to engage so I'm thinking the popper will be mounted at the bottom of the door under the latch so it can pull down. It will take a strong solenoid too, there's a lot of cheapies out there that prob wouldn't perform the job well. Heavy duty needed.

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Ray,

I pretty much follow the perfect paint job finish guide by SPI http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!perfect-paint-job/c1go8

Since I'm a user of their products. There are a few differences since my car sat in epoxy for a long time..But once all the filler work is finished then it's followed to the -T.

I noticed your using self etching primer UNDER the epoxy ?

If so you MUST check the tech sheet of the epoxy you used are using. Most epoxy's cannot be sprayed over anything acid based unless the tech sheet tells you it can..It's the kiss of death-delamination loss of adhesion down the road

LOVE OF BEAUTY IS TASTE..THE CREATION OF BEAUTY IS ART

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Thanks for the pics Ray. Great work and its really good that you are showing this stuff too, it's this hard work and detail that is often overlooked in car mags etc. They show all the cool mods but never the boring dirty stuff so to speak. Well done

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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Thanks for the pics Ray. Great work and its really good that you are showing this stuff too, it's this hard work and detail that is often overlooked in car mags etc. They show all the cool mods but never the boring dirty stuff so to speak. Well done

 

This stuff is tedious for sure , a lot of time and work with little reward, lol. I've been working on the back window framing too. Finally got epoxy all over the remaining bare metal. I'm gonna start working on the front air bag suspension soon. That should be a little more interesting. :thankyouyellow: I hear on this forum frequently that everybody loves looking at pics and I am getting a lot of hits so I'll continue to bore you guys with details. Gotta admit, when the day is done I even enjoy reviewing pics.

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Keep the pictures coming. I like to see the progress. I couldn't imagine tackling what your doing. Great work! Ryan

1973 Mach 1, Porsche Guards Red, 429/C6

1972 Mach 1, Grabber Blue, 302/C4, currently under construction

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image.thumb.jpg.34a83bf513a36b74bb6e53049f0abd5b.jpgHere are some more detail pics of the Tedious work that goes unnoticed. Replaced metal in rusted areas of the cowl, took out the styling lines behind the doors, finished rear window rough in. Gonna start front air bag suspension first of the week.


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I just can't get these pics to load right. Sorry for the flipped pics. You guys are gonna have to call me flipper. LOL , I think I might try using my digital camera instead of phone, see if that helps.

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image.thumb.jpg.2f34987386457f9c425394af040fb704.jpgMoving on with the front air bag suspension. I'm using a very simple procedure. One could use billet brackets etc, etc , my approach is simple strong effective and low cost . In place of the spring and shock mount I installed a 6" piece of 3/16 2x4 stock for mounting and spacing of the air bag. On the top of the tower as it would turn out the two mounting bolts for the bag fit perfectly into the exhisting holes in the shock tower top. I placed a rubber gasket between the top and the air bag to prevent bag damage and squeaking. I can now complete the closure of the tower on top. The 1/2" air line will protrude through the hole where the shock top mounted. It fit so simply with minimal fabrication is was almost disspointing. However to follow will be relocating the shock outside the tower, that'll be more fun here are a couple of pics of the layout so far.


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The bump stops I will be installing in between the lower control arm and chassis will leave 1" left of bag collapse to protect the bag from bottoming out. The bag will give a nice suspension travel with a lift capacity of 7" using a 2500 bag.


Keep in mind that 4" of that suspension tower was taken out of the middle which closed in the distance from the upper control arm and top of the tower.

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Wow that is so awesome work Ray ? [THUMBS UP SIGN] Regards Lars DK73

 

Sendt fra min D2005 med Tapatalk

 

Thanks Lars , for your continued support, with all the views I'm surprised more people don't post. Hearing from you guys is great. It's encouraging to read your posts. I'm bogged down with details right now but hope to begin reassembly soon.


Thanks for the pics Ray. Great work and its really good that you are showing this stuff too, it's this hard work and detail that is often overlooked in car mags etc. They show all the cool mods but never the boring dirty stuff so to speak. Well done

 

Thank you Luke, for your support and encouragement, I'm starting to see some things come together now. So far it's all working according to the big plan with a few changes along the way. Love hearing from ya.


Keep the pictures coming. I like to see the progress. I couldn't imagine tackling what your doing. Great work! Ryan

 

Thanks Ryan, it's a big undertaking but it's easy for me, all my builds are low budget, no high dollar investment just my time so it's more fun than expensive. That way, less fear.,Never had one that didn't get done though not all come out as good as planned lol. This one ,I'm feeling ,is one of the good ones, I'm loving it. ;)


Thanks to all you guys , your comments are what makes posting worth while. Keep em coming, :thankyouyellow:

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Ray your build is cool to watch. I really dig the unseen stuff the planning in things like how you cut around the door latches and other unseen detail etc. Little things like that show off the art of custom car building and the various skills it takes to make it all work. Wish I had half your ability.

 

Ps like the flare you have in the rear guards now

He has all the vices I admire and none of the virtues I despise

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Well I have a lot of good stuff to do on My own Mustang [WINKING FACE] Just wanted to be motivated by following your's Renovation and others so I'm sure that I can do it right 😎 That's is so awesome to see all of the good news. But Ray I think it is most likely because of all the other things forum members has to do at daily basis. Whit work and family life. They don't always have the time to put in their work on there cars. But does it later on [WINKING FACE] perhaps that is a reason... Regards Lars DK73

 

Sendt fra min D2005 med Tapatalk

So I'm a proud owner of one Mach 1 73! Regards Lars DK73:whistling:

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image.thumb.jpg.bdfd15266f5405b0b8a2cf3523a6a383.jpgI got to play with the plasma cutter today. Had to make 4 pieces to complete the top of the spring tower. the section left a discrepancy between the top and bottom of the tower. The bag fit great and accommodates nicely the 4" s lost in the cut. Plus allowed me to lower the vehicle suspension an additional 5"s for a total height reduction of over 9"s. When I factor in the low pro tires ill be at a height of about 40"s here are some more pics of that work.


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Thanks again for all your posts. I will be cleaning up the entire body over the next couple days. I'll be using a combination of sand blasting wire brushing and solvent cleaning. After that I will be starting with application of fiber all and bondo. Some shaping on doors and fenders before I begin hanging panels back on the car.

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image.thumb.jpg.dd28edc5bae1a7cd24d586566915f610.jpgI got the bump stops in, the shocks mounted. Here's a couple pics one extended and one collapsed.


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Air bag appears bit distorted cuz it has no air in it , it's just hanging. Total lift ended up at 6" ride height will be at 2 to 3 inches of lift.


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3rd pic is at ride height


Most of the body and suspension fabrication is complete so next step will be cleaning and painting chassis & hidden panels, replacing necessary suspension pieces such as sway bar links etc, installing door hdwe and glass, and rehanging the doors & fenders. I am still undecided on the design of the dash board, it will also be fabricated ,I'm considering a couple different options there. I'm thinking speedo and tack either side of the steering wheel, top of the dash having two sort of squared off humps across its width with a center panel turned slightly towards the driver , loaded with 6 gauges all covered in leather. I'm working on a couple of drawings of the dash considerations now.

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