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fmx to 4 speed swap


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Ok, assembled and mounted the notorious z bar. here are all the pieces...

2quudl1.jpg

 

The felt washer pops over the ball, with grease.

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Bedded the nylon shells with lots of grease keeper groove towards the 2dl1a0z.jpg

Once in , place the clip in the two little keeper holes. I had to give it a whack with a mallet to get the clip to seat.

14w7x2v.jpg


Complete, bolted it to the frame first, then the engine bracket bolts up with the bell housing. I had to get a couple 2-1/2 grade 8 7/16 for the bracket mount / bell housing bolt up.

2qs6vec.jpg

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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Hooker Comp #6915HKR is the only sub-$500 header for a 351C-4V I'm aware of that will clear the 71-73 Z-bar. They're also one of the best fitting headers I ever installed in a a car.

 

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/headers_and_exhaust_manifolds/long_tube/parts/6915HKR

 

 

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That's what I'm running too. While they do hang a little low, they fit nicely. I drag mine once in a great while, but it is usually my fault.

 

It does not leave any extra room for the linkage, just enough but there is complete clearance once you get it together.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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Extra room!?! Custom fab'd , and still barely room. Between the pitman arm, steering box, and bell housing, I'm almost surprised a four speed was an option! Big tip of the hat to Don at Ohio mustang parts, for getting me all those hard to find bits, and getting them to me quick!

2e5jg4l.jpg


Did a little top loader prep just because. Replaced the input shaft bearing, tailshaft bushing, and seal. Also put in a new Speedo drive gear as mine was wasted from a frozen Speedo cable at some point. Added a half gallon of 90 weight, and snugged down the lid. the whole bit took maybe an hour. I put the drive line in before filling with oil, to stop a spill. I cut the gear end of the fmx Speedo off and used it for a temp plug.

The rear seal can just be popped out with a big screw driver just levering it out. I split the bushing out with a slim screwdriver. Very soft metal, peeled right out. Drove in the new with a socket. Front bearing comes off carefully with screwdrivers in the keeper groove and another driver for a lever. Bearing, bushing, gasket set and seal were 65$.

w02h4p.jpg

 

 

 


Spent a couple extra bucks for a really beefy throw out bearing. Mounted the bellhousing, hung the starter, converted by floor Jack into a red neck tranny Jack with a short chunk of 2x10 and a couple 2x2s, and slid that baby in there.. That was too easy!

 

Then the shifter and linkage... Another doo over! Whole lot easier if I had mounted it to the tranny first! Slight oversight...was in big hurt to get it in. Oh well got it in eventually .

 

The tranny mount from the fmx works fine with the toploader. The c4 crossmember also worked perfect. The stock fmx drive shaft also works fine. There is about 3/4" of float at the tail shaft. Of course you do have to use the c4 yoke. 8we2qp.jpg8we2qp.jpg


Also got the upper z bar rod today, if you are converting the hole is just to the drivers left of the steering column. So a few springs, a Speedo cable , bolt up some exhaust... Oobabkwy a couple other details...

But I think this particular stang will be going through the gears by tomorrow afternoon!

30vlv86.jpg

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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Well guys, I worked a few links out of the trans linkage, fabbed/ faked in a couple bushings, in the clutch link, bolted my seat back in, screwed down a handsome rubber flex around that that classic Hurst shifter....dropped it off the stands, and went for tool around the block..

 

Wow!!! What a transformation!!! I mean... Seriously, what a different car! Spirited!, even......Nimble!! Ok well for A 72 stang. But actually felt like a muscle car! That was worth the bloody knuckles. I would recommend to anyone. No comparison to an auto.

 

So, to all or any of you going to do this... You are going to love it.

 

Kole

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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What you need, .. what I paid. Where I found em

 

 

Tranny. 500 Cl

Bearing,bushing, seal 60 O'Reilly auto

Flywheel. 90 Jegs

Flywheel bolts. 15 ebay

Clutch kit. 100 O'Reilly auto

pressure plate bolts 10 ace

Bell housing. 75 CL

Starter 35 O'Reilly auto

Shifter. (Torino) 100. Ebay

Block plate. 32 ebay

Pedals. 150 ebay

Z bar. 50 ebay

Z bar felts, lift rod. 40 Ohio mustang

Block side pivot 35 pivot

Cross member. 35 motor city mustang

Yoke. 35 motor city mustang

U joint. 15 O'Reilly auto

Shifter boot. 20 O'Reilly auto

 

From the fmx

 

Drive line,

Speedo cable

Transmission mount

Bell housing bolts

Crossmember bolts

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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Kole

 

Thanks for the update!

 

You really got a great deal on some of those parts!

 

I will go down the same road one day when I find a cheap T5.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Kole

 

Thanks for the update!

 

You really got a great deal on some of those parts!

 

I will go down the same road one day when I find a cheap T5.

 

Paul

 

Thanks Paul, most of the stuff i bought on ebay is for sale all the time for double or triple. I found if i just checked every couple days, it only took a few weeks for those kind of prices to show up. I have seen pedals, crossmembers, and z bars all sell for the same as I paid in the last couple weeks.

 

If you are going the t5 rout, i think there is a pretty cool aftermarket cable

set up that uses an add on pedal and dosnt need a z bar. It does need a later model bell housing that works with a cable clutch.

If you don't have time to do it right the first time, you sure as Hell don't have time to do it right the second time.

 

Dutch uncle

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....dropped it off the stands, and went for tool around the block..

 

Wow!!! What a transformation!!! I mean... Seriously, what a different car! Spirited!, even......Nimble!! Ok well for A 72 stang. But actually felt like a muscle car! That was worth the bloody knuckles. I would recommend to anyone. No comparison to an auto.

 

So, to all or any of you going to do this... You are going to love it.

 

Kole

 

Yep, did that to my '69 back around 1990. It took a car I already truly loved to a whole new level of "never never never for sale"--until I am dead anyway.

 

Congrats and enjoy your new ride!

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1931 Ford Model A Station Wagon
1969 Mach 1 - 351C, TKO-600, 4WDB, R&P, A/C, Shaker, Fold Down, etc.
1972 Mach 1 - 351C, FMX, PDB, PS, A/C, Fold Down, Console
1996 Mustang Cobra Convertible - 10psi Procharger, 436rwhp

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Well done. I have room around the headers because I have manual steering. . . . that's the difference.

http://www.7173mustangs.com/gallery/1_01_07_15_8_53_18.png

 

"I love my Hookers!" and "Get some Strange" probably have a different connotation to non automotive enthusiasts!

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