rear wheel bearing replacement

It's the roller pin kind right behind the wheel. I have to take out the axle shaft and pry off the old bearing? Does the shaft go back in easily?

The best is you cut the chase of the bearing about half way so you do not nick the axle shaft.

Then you use a cold chisel and smack the cut you made to shatter the chase off the axle shaft.

Installing a new bearing requires a press. The chase is pushed onto the shaft under quite a lot of pressure.

Since you have the roller and not sealed version it might require packing with grease.

I've done a few but the axles I have done used sealed one piece bearings.

Like 72Hcode said, you have to have them pressed on anyway, so you might as well have the shop cut the old off and press the new on. Last time I did mine was in High School shop class where we had a press.

You want to be sure to get the retainer plate on before pressing the bearings on too, or you get to do the job twice.

kcmash

A press is the best way to install,

However, if you want to do it yourself, don't have a press, and don't want to pay someone to press it on it is possible to install without a press.

I've used a length of pipe with an inside diameter just slightly larger than the axle shaft to drive the bearing first and then the retainer second onto the axle. Just make sure the pipe end is cut square and that it only contacts the inner race of the bearing.

i just did my barings .pressed on and off plus barrings and seals was $90 for it all

You need to borrow a slide hammer axle puller to get them out if I remember correctly

been 30 yrs... then take-em on down to the machine shop and have them pressed off and on.

Good Luck!

Paul

Cut and chisel method



a press is about 250-350$ however you will find other uses and its a good excuse to fill the garage with more tools.

the pipe method can be done it is much more difficult. you have to find the right pipe diameter to not cause damage to the race or axle shaft.

For a assembled 1 piece bearing they do not recommend it because the banging can cause the bearing to become damaged internally.

for the 2-3 piece type you have to watch the rollers and make sure nothing pops out of place. banging the pipe and trying to steady the axle shaft is hard. The press gives you even steady pressure without jarring hits.

For the effort if you do not want to pay out for your own press just take everything to a transmission shop and have them do it.

It isn't hard you just want the right tools to prevent possible damage the most easy to damage part is the axle shaft itself.

the splines can be marred and the axle seal surface could sustain damage with would mean you will have a leak from the diff fluid.

i bought the press and have used it on many other jobs since the wheel bearings.



For my cuts i used a Dremel tool the disc is smaller you have better and more precise control compared to the air cutter used in the first video.

this way you are less likely to cut into the plate or shaft by accident.

these are my axles after i replaced the bearings using the methods in the videos. i have the sealed 1 piece bearings, but the idea is the same for either type.



after cleaning and a little detailing



if you change the wheel bearings then you also want to change the axle seals. again not hard you can pull the old seals with a large flat head screw driver and some leverage, you just need a seal driver to put the new one in. the new Vitron seals for the axle are finicky the banging can pop off the spring that seals the backside of the seal to the shaft. its recommended that you backfill the vitron seal with a thick grease before install. the grease will hold the spring and keep it from popping out when you hammer the new seal in. the oem style seals are less a problem to install but they have a higher percentage of leaking.