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Short of getting my frame pulled, or buying global adjustable strut rods, anyone know of strut rods with more travel/threading on them?

 

Faling that, is it possible to machine more threading onto a stock strut rod?

 

I want to burn my car to the ground everytime I look at it because it's undrivable. I have had zero luck finding a frame shop that will look at my car

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If you measure from the grease fitting on the lower ball joint along

the line of the SR to the inside and outside of the core support where

the SR goes through we can compare to see how far off you are.

 

A good machine shop may be able to turn more threads on the SR.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I believe the 65-66 cars adjusted their Caster by shimming the upper control arm. Perhaps you could add shim on the front bolt and push the top ball joint rearward.

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Judge made a good point!

 

It just depends on how much distance you need to recover.

 

Paul

73 Grande

351C 2v

Now 4v Carb/Cam/headers/T5

 

Gasoline is for washing parts.

Alcohol is for drinking.

Nitomethane is for racing!

 

 

Work in Progress photos here:

Last Update: 4/23/16

 

http://s1270.photobucket.com/user/therocket366/library/?sort=3&page=1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Should be positive castor, but 2 is good. Aim to even out both between 1.5 and 2.

Open tracker recommended 2+ caster and 0 camber. If you have some negative camber over -.5 that cause cause problems.

 

Too much caster will be vibration at higher speeds on the steering wheel. And too much camber can be steering pull at higher speeds.

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Have you tried body shops aside from frame shops?

It will be hit and miss, as most all of the larger body shops (around here in Pittsburgh at least) would much rather do insurance jobs than self pay ones, let alone a classic vehicle.

 

However, there is a small percentage of "friendly" shops, both large and small, who would probably chuck it up on their frame machine and give it a pull. I'm sure it may require interviews of the shop owner, but they are out there.

 

Or, how about a Vo-Tech school?

They usually do labor free of charge for the education value...

 

If you can find a "friendly", I honestly think that would be the better way to go. All else is a crutch fix for a much deeper problem, IMO.

Good luck with your search.

Pete - MotoArts Decals and Signs

'71 Sportsroof 351C-4V/4-speed - FINALLY under construction - no, wait, on hold again...

'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop, rolling beater - SOLD

'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA, survivor

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