Carb Choke

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Joined
Mar 7, 2013
Messages
1,281
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Location
New Jersey
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible (Mach I Tribute)
The choke on Christine, yes Mustang Sally has been renamed Christine, isn't working correct so the idle remains high.

My local shop hasn't been able to locate a choke and CJ Pony thought they had it, but nope.

So I'm looking for a choke for a 73 2bl 302.

Is the choke generic for all Ford 2bl or carb specific?

 
I'm sure there are exceptions, but I think most pieces are generic and will interchange.

What are you missing?

 
I'm sure there are exceptions, but I think most pieces are generic and will interchange.

What are you missing?
The choke is there, but it's sticking and no matter what the shop does to try to adjust, no good. Part of the problem I believe that even though it's a Ford 2bl don't think it's OEM. Plus there are no numbers on the carb, but he hasn't pulled it off to see what's on the bottom.

Here's a pic of the electronic choke. So I'm looking for a replacement and having a very hard time finding one. Hopefully someone here can help.

IMAG0155.jpg

 
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That appears to be an aftermarket choke cover. You should be able to find a OME electric cover for a pretty reasonable price.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Electric%20Choke%20Kit%20Ford%20Motorcraft%202100%202150%202%20bbl%20Carburetor&_itemId=140862638833
I was looking at this. Just trying to confirm if i have a 2100 carb and will look where the seller of the choke said the numbers should be.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Choke-Kit-Ford-Motorcraft-2100-2150-2-bbl-Carburetor-/141738055155?hash=item21003f15f3

Thanks

 
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I struggle to think of what part would be "sticking".

The assembly itself is ultra simple.

Does it not want to open when warm, or shut when cold?

 
I struggle to think of what part would be "sticking".

The assembly itself is ultra simple.

Does it not want to open when warm, or shut when cold?
I would agree but the idle has been adjusted and just it's still running high 1100-1300 rpm's in neutral.

Just spoke with the shop. Wonder if it's the wiring connection and not the actual choke. Unfort, might need to do a process of elimination first and change the choke to see what happens.

 
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Original was a mechanical choke (i think it was called "automatic choke" that has heat tubes that activated the choke. There was never any cable attached)so whatever is on there is aftermarket and should have parts available. Holley sells choke kits for their 2bbl carbs for around $50 bucks...could be what was attached to your OEM carb. And you should be able to find install/adjust instructions on their site for free. Might help diagnose what is going on with the setup you have currently.

 
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The 73 choke was a bit different than other years, It had both an electric heating element and a heat source from the exhaust manifold. I can make out the lines so it looks like it's connected, but if the tube is rusted or broken off down by the manifold (common) then it's not getting the heat it needs to unload.

IIRC, the power source for the choke came from the field terminal of the alternator, check to see if there is 12V present with the engine running. If not, you may have a broken or disconnected wire.

FWIW, the 2100 is an extremely simple carb. If the shop you are bringing it to cannot sort it out, find another shop.

 
The 73 choke was a bit different than other years, It had both an electric heating element and a heat source from the exhaust manifold. I can make out the lines so it looks like it's connected, but if the tube is rusted or broken off down by the manifold (common) then it's not getting the heat it needs to unload.

IIRC, the power source for the choke came from the field terminal of the alternator, check to see if there is 12V present with the engine running. If not, you may have a broken or disconnected wire.

FWIW, the 2100 is an extremely simple carb. If the shop you are bringing it to cannot sort it out, find another shop.
+1 on the new shop. I am not a carb expert, but the choke should be the easiest to diagnose and fix for any trained mechanic. Of course the problem may be that the mechanic only knows how to fix the choke on the fuel injected cars.

 
Besides needing a new shop to work on Christine, it appears it wasn't the choke afterall.

The solenoid was sticking and after a few adjustments, Christine is idling fine.

Anyone need a brand new choke for a Ford 2100D for shipping only?

 
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