Started the engine swap

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MeZapU

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
830
Reaction score
11
Location
Southery, UK
My Car
12 GT
73 Mach 1
85 GT
66 F-100
I started swapping the 351c in my 73 today for a fresh 351c that I have been building over the past year. Hoping this new engine will have approx 100 more hp at the rear wheels vs the old engine.

It's late so I'll just leave you with the pictures. More text to follow.

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Hi Mike,

Looks like the project is coming along very well. If you don't mind me asking, what is your budget for the whole thing, or what do you plan on spending in total when the job is finished?

Also, what horses do you expect to put out at the flywheel when finished?

Greg.:)

 
Looking Great, Mike! ::goodjob::

I might want to get a set of those "Boss" valve covers.

Thanks for sharing - keep the updates coming :D

 
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what is your budget for the whole thing, or what do you plan on spending in total when the job is finished?

Also, what horses do you expect to put out at the flywheel when finished?

Greg.:)
Honestly, I have no idea. I used to save all receipts, itemize it all, but that was 20 years ago. These days I just buy parts when I can afford them. I still look for deals. I'm certainly no high roller being enlisted active duty Air Force, but I do all the work myself which keeps costs down.

I'm being realistic with the power goals and am after approx 420ish flywheel horsepower with about 375ft/lbs torque. People spout big number goals but making it streetable is another aspect few can grasp. I still want this to be a good driving car with little temperament. The old engine dyno'd at 280/310 at the rear wheels. The cam was smaller, heads, intake, exhaust, carb all smaller 2v fare. It ran "good" but left me flat as far as muscle car like expectations.

I'm also going to pull the toploader down and go through it. It's weeping out of every seal and 2nd gear does not like to downshift when it's cold. It still shifts great and has never ground once in the 16 years it's been in the car. I want to keep it that way.

Also going to replace the driveshaft with an aluminum one. I've had one from a police Crown Vic that is only 3/4" too long. A shop nearby does a good job shortening, and balancing. Even with new u-joints it will be less than $100.

 
Although the pictures are a near reversal of the engine removal, I installed the new engine this evening. I still need to do a lot of restoring of the ancillaries, bellhousing and transmission before they go back in. But at least there is a bit more space in the garage to move around for a bit.

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I sure hope the heck I know what I'm doing. Hacking up a brand new set of stainless headers.

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I finally got the headers finished. This is version 1.3. Sucks installing it along with the z-bar to check clearances, then pulling it all out to do the work. In and out, in and out.

The learning curve on my new TIG welder was pretty steep. Especially since I've never TIG welded before and I was stepping straight up to 304 stainless steel. That stuff is tough! Cutting through two 1 3/4" primary tubes was enough to completely dull a sawz-all blade. I resorted to a angle grinder with a thin 2mm cut off wheel. Crazy thing is that with only four tiny tack welds holding the pipes together for mock-up, it was so sturdy that the crazy vibrations from the sawz-all did not even faze it. When I wanted to pop it apart the welds just laughed at my cold chisel and hammer. My welds are not very pretty they are strong enough to handle anything.

I hope to fire the engine up this weekend and do the cam break-in. Bad thing is that when I added some antifreeze and de-mineralized water, the heater core started leaking. That's a kick in the pants.

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Fired up the new engine today. Ran it for twenty minutes to break-in the camshaft. Oped headers. Neighbors must love me. Holy cow is it ever loud! Video does not do it justice. I was using ear protection the whole time. Gotta get it to an exhaust shop ASAP.

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What headers did you start with? Chuck
The OBX stainless. Nice thick flanges on both ends, good materials and welds, even inside the exhaust port area is nicely finished. They would be a great direct fit for an automatic car. Just needed the one primary tube modded for the z-bar setup. The separated head mating flange is a bit of a pain to install but not a really big deal as it gives more spark plug install/remove room once it's all together. I was able to install them both from underneath without jacking the engine and there is room to get the starter in/out once installed. Good ground clearance as well.

Exhaust shop appointment today at 10:00.

 
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